Torque Wrench

[DRACO A5OG]

Hey All,

Don't know how many carry a Torque Wrench in their trunk, but I started when I went to my 1st Track Event to ensure 96 pounds on the wheel lugs.

I have a smaller inspected "Inch/Pound" Great Neck Torque Wrench.

Is it correct to assume 1152 Inches/Pound is equal to 96 Feet/Pound?

The issue is my wrench only shows the highest mark level of 960 Inches/Pound but does dial up beyond that point and I have calculated and marked 1152 Inches/Pound (if correct for 96 ft/lbs). In doing this, would it work or give false reading?

TIA

[jester911]

I am sure no expert on torque wrenches but I definitely use mine a lot. I personally would get one that goes high enough on the dial. If you really felt the need to keep using that one I would suggest borrowing one with the proper setting and after tightening with it follow with yours to see if it clicks at the same point.

[KFC911]

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

...Is it correct to assume 1152 Inches/Pound is equal to 96 Feet/Pound?

The issue is my wrench only shows the highest mark level of 960 Inches/Pound but does dial up beyond that point and I have calculated and marked 1152 Inches/Pound (if correct for 96 ft/lbs). In doing this, would it work or give false reading?...

You are correct on your calculations, but imo you need a torque wrench where 96 ft/lbs is within the range for that specific wrench. In general, the clicker type wrenches will be more accurate "in the middle" of their total range, and potentially less accurate on either extreme, so I wouldn't be comfortable with your assumption on it's accuracy outside of this range. Calibrating it with another "known" wrench isn't a bad idea, but you really need a bigger wrench for lug nuts.

[DRACO A5OG]

Thank You Gentlemen.

KC911, I was afraid of that. I figured due to the spring mechanism in the clicking wrenches more or less tension would give a progressive less accurate reading. Just for kicks I will compare it to a standard sized one at 96 ft/lbs and my Ghetto Modded inch/lbs at 1152.

I chose the inch/lbs wrench due to it's compact size and weight for the Track. I thought, how perfect it was that it limit at 960, never realizing it was in inches and not feet per pound. The 96* psyched me out.

I am able to get good leverage on the lugs when lifting up with my legs as oppposed to pressing down with my body weight, but that was only at 960 inch/lbs = 80 ft/lbs.

BTW, drove over 3 months at 80 ft/lbs with no issues, 1 Track Event, 3 Fun Runs, boy I must be a lucky retard or yet another over engineered item to our benefit

[KFC911]

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

...I chose the inch/lbs wrench due to it's compact size and weight for the Track. I thought, how perfect it was that it limit at 960, never realizing it was in inches and not feet per pound. The 96* psyched me out...

Must be the "new math"...no worries, my brain "farts" on occasion too

[rusnak]

I have to admit I carry a 1/2" torque wrench in my trunk that measures in foot pounds, also a soft socket, a 3/8" wrench, etc. Guess my farming roots dont fade away easily.

[RWebb]

This has been said many times before in previous threads, but bears repeating:

All torque "wrenches [and virtually ANY measuring device] will be more accurate "in the middle" of their total range, and potentially less accurate on either extreme, so [do NOT] assum[e] accuracy outside of this range."

[3.2 CAB]

There is even some literature that comes with most torque wrenches I have seen, that warns, not to use it at settings lower than indicated, or higher than indicated, due to damage that will happen when used outside the wrenches indicated specs.

[DRACO A5OG]

Oh my Smacked with the Idiot Stick again, Doh. Looks like I need to go shopping.

[rootmatt]

If you've grown attached to your current torque wrench, there's a way to keep it. I have seen extension bars that are used to increase the range of such wrenches. They go between the drive block and the socket, thus increasing the leverage (usually doubling it). This would give you a max of 1920 inch.pounds which should be plenty. Sorry about where to get one. I live down under so my sources won't help.

[acapella8]

Most used tool in my garage...craftsman digital TW.

[billybek]

How do the digital torque wrenches work? Do you have to look at the display when using or do they tone at a preset value? Just curious!!! My clickers never need batteries and sometimes it is a long period of time between uses.

[RWebb]

I believe they use a piezo-electric device.

The Snap-Off ones buzz (audible & feelable) at the right torque. Lots of them on eBay for decent prices used.

They do turn off after a set time, so if you are sitting there cussing or something for a while, you need to check that it's on before trying again.

LCD display is not the easiest to read...

Overall - easier to use and much more accurate than a click type.

Much easier to use than a beam type.

[DRACO A5OG]

Originally Posted by rootmatt

If you've grown attached to your current torque wrench, there's a way to keep it. I have seen extension bars that are used to increase the range of such wrenches. They go between the drive block and the socket, thus increasing the leverage (usually doubling it). This would give you a max of 1920 inch.pounds which should be plenty. Sorry about where to get one. I live down under so my sources won't help.

Cool, will search it out

[rnln]

Let do what jerry suggested below. I am curious too.

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

Hey All,

Don't know how many carry a Torque Wrench in their trunk, but I started when I went to my 1st Track Event to ensure 96 pounds on the wheel lugs.

I have a smaller inspected "Inch/Pound" Great Neck Torque Wrench.

Is it correct to assume 1152 Inches/Pound is equal to 96 Feet/Pound?

The issue is my wrench only shows the highest mark level of 960 Inches/Pound but does dial up beyond that point and I have calculated and marked 1152 Inches/Pound (if correct for 96 ft/lbs). In doing this, would it work or give false reading?

TIA

[hcoles]

my 2 cents on the issue of click type vs. other types...
having the proper torque target, calibrated wrench, threads/washers in good condition, lubricated threads and MOST important proper technique - is an order of magnitude more important than the indicator type. The main advantage of the click type is that you don't need to see any reading and this lets you concentrate on the proper technique until you hear the click. If you want to be looking at a dial or display while trying to put 100 ft-lbs on a nut while in some uncomfortable position, go for it. The click type is good enough for all the fasteners on the car with the exception of the rod bolts.

[joecrum]

I believe I read in my clicker torque wrench instruction manual that you should set it to the lowest setting when storing it. Anyone know the reason for that? I figured that the clicker must be under a load when at higher settings, even when not used??

[KFC911]

Yes, always set the wrench back to 0 to remove the tension. I don't know why, but I'm assuming they may lose their accuracy if kept under tension while stored.

[3.2 CAB]

I have also read that. I believe that I have even read on some to go to the lowest setting, BUT, not tighten the handle. I believe this is so the mechanism inside is not held in tension, like it is when you actually have a certain setting dialed in, and the handle tightened down. It is somewhat like the hammer on a firearm that has been cocked, and it has a hair trigger, so when just the right amount of pressure(torque) is applied the shear forces overcome the sear, and let the hammer fall(torque wrench clicks) Hopefully this analogy helps in understanding what I am saying.

[RWebb]

as per above, the spring can be stretched when under tension for a long time - the click types depend on a spring -- and the spring constant - for their accuracy

PS - I am going to ask Porsche AG to pass a law that you cannot own one of their cars unless you pass Freshman physics...

Seriously, I recommend this even to the old geezers out there -- it is amazing how much you can explain with a background in how reality works...

Torque is not a super accurate way to set the tension on a bolt in the first place.
re order of magnitude - that is 10x (!) and I could agree with that if the fastener is pretty far out of whack (a technical physics term) but we had a demo of click type wrenches on a tester -- many were far from accurate.

Anyway, y'all pays yore money and youse takes you're choice...