More pics from last night's adventures.

In all likelihood I will pull the fan / housing later in the year and have it cleaned up. I can't get any more grease off of it and it still looks average at best.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1217944549.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1217944562.jpg

I should have been clearer.
The Thermo Time Switch on the left chain cover has 2 connections: 1 coming from the Starter Solenoid, and the other going to the Cold Start Valve.

There is another Thermo Switch that some engines had for Cold Start.
It is looped into the vacuum lines coming from the WUR.
It lookes like a small round can with one electrical connection and two nipples for vacuum.

However, it sounds like the mistery plug is for Cruise?
Cheers.

Craig,
I can't believe I never saw this thread... The motor looks great. Can't wait to hear that it cranked up. I saw Kevin Sunday night. I was driving Bob's GT3RS for him and coaching him in it at Roebling. Lol, you realize you don't have a choice, you have to come try out the new motor at the track in a few months right? It was a fun day though, got to drive Bob's RS, C4S, and the #4 one-lap finishing GT3.

I think Gunter may be correct. That sounds very familiar.

Looking good. I had good luck having my fan Powder coated. I think I got the fan and valve covers, engine tin and other stuff for $100 at a local place here in Conyers. Not sure how it held up I sold the car shortly after words.

Yep, I will be taking it to the track. I need to lower it though - the new shocks added some serious height. I was considering doing this while the engine was out but I think it would be too much to address in light of all of the other stuff I have to worry about.

I wish that the DEs were not held during the summer months. Too hot for air cooled engines in my opinion. I will probably hit one up in the fall.

Wah! $100 is a deal!

I had the engine tin, cylinder tin, valve covers, and the brackets at the rear all powder coated. They did some three step process. Even after remove the black from the "PORSCHE" lettering on the valve covers they went back and clear coated it. Cost me $250ish.

My fan has some cracked blades anyhow. I need a new one. The housing is fine, just nasty looking.

Put CIS on last night. Everything went well except for the breather hose. It tore as it was being slipped over the breather cover nipple.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1218026207.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1218026222.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1218026236.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1218026252.jpg

That thing needs a distributor...
Looks good. Good that the hose tore when you were installing instead of later. Funny that we were just talking about the hoses leaking the other day.

Yah that aluminum elbow that goes in the back of the turtle boot feeds nasty oil and fumes back into the intake...which cant help the combustion process (oily air might not burn as well as clean dry air), it was an emission thing sort of like the EGR valves. Eventually might want to plug that and set up a breather system, my tired motor ran a lot better when I stopped re-circulating the gases. Of course that may of been because of a vacuum leak I fixed at the same time.

My powder coat was a budget deal, they dipped, baked and coated them not alot of time and no clear coat follow up so that may account for the price difference....looked great when I got them back :-)

The breather system is definitely the way to go. If nothing else it's a lot neater. You can do the breather system a variety of ways too. I prefer a puke tank with a filter on the tank.

not to re direct this great thred, however, Andrew, can you please post pics of this breather mod you say helps and the parts needed ?? If you wish, you can email me direct at bobf@design-associatee.us if you wish. I am very interested in how you do this as I feel the same that all of those oily fumes definately don't help the combustion an an already taxed cis set up.
Thanks,
Bob

+1

I would like to see that too. In the meantime, I will leave as is. But it might make a good winter project.

Andy ... chime in as well and provide some pics or details if you have them.

search for "breather" or puke can there has been several threads.

IMHO, I think Porsche setup the early 912s for the best breather systems ever...

crankcase breather hoses are used on many high performance vehicles, the thing to remember is that this is totally independant of the cumbustion chambers. What you are doing is essentially venting the noxious gases formed in the crankcase that mix with oil, so the best place to vent it is usually the oil system. Now it also technically improves airflow in the crankcase, as well. The following pics are from a full race 911 with a 27qt oil system. Now, no one probably wants to go to that extreme unless they're racing, but... it still makes sense.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1218040491.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1218040521.jpg


You can see the oil tank, and the vent tube going to the catch can or "puke tank" Now these tanks must be emptied, on occaision. They sell nice ones with level indicators. This particular setup has an intergral air filter, some of them have external filters.

Personally I like many of the setups for Subarus and I'd adapt one of those to a 911. They have some really nice pieces available, and the apadtation isn't that difficult, but this is essentially all that you're trying to do whenever you install a breather system.

hmm so are you saying Andrew that the crankcase/oil tank venting to the turtle on top of the CIS is not bad for the combustion event? Or that it is good for the oil system?

I dont want to promote an idea that is not helpful.

by the way I sure would love to buy the RSA!

What I meant was that the gases you're venting don't really have anything to do with the combustion chambers. if it goes in the intake it's burned and/or shot out the exhaust. This really is crankcase ventilation, there were emission reasons to have it go back into the intake, kind of like recirculating blow off valves that come standard on most turboed cars. I just meant that the two are seperate.

I can say that any ventilation is good for the oil system.
You could argue it is bad for the combustion event, but I think that the detrimental effect is pretty negligible. from a performance standpoint breathers keep your oil healthier, and are almost a windage modification allowing less resistance in the crankcase as everything is spinning. It can be a much neater package when you relocate it to a seperate catch tank than have oils just shooting right back into your intake though.

Lol, as for the RSA... it's yours if you pay for it.

When I install my dizzy, do I need to put any assembly lube on the gears or some motor oil? What about on the dizzy o-ring?

Also, when I install my fuel injectors do I need to use a punch on the intakes in order to hold the injectors place? I would rather NOT do this if the injector sleeve o-ring will provide enough resistance to keep the injectors in place. If I want to replace the injectors sometime in the future it won't be such a pita to get them out.

Thanks,
Craig

Craig,
If you're planning on replacing the injectors, I'd do them all now. 911s aren't nearly as bad as 944s. Usually on a 944 you try to replace one injuector and end up being forced to replace all 4 as the others start leaking once you replace the fuel rail. Still, if you were planning on replacing them I'd do it while everything's out/apart. Other than that, be careful and check for leaks.

Some lube on the o-ring isn't a bad idea, but I don't think you really need to worry about the gears too much.

Not replacing the injectors now. At $60 per injector I can't justify spending another $360. That is why I want to do it down the road after the current rebuild tab starts to fade from my wife's memory.:D

They are not easy to change if the intakes have been punched (I forget the technical name). You have to grind off the tabs in order to get the injectors out. Can't do that with the engine in the car.

That is why I am wondering if I can install without re-punching. This will make it easy as pie to pull them later on down the road.

I think a little confusion here Craig, possibly ??

To begin with, the metal intake runner (there are 6 of these... the bent pipes if you will) and these each have a orangie/red plastic sleeve that is staked into the intake runner by the triangular shaped "stake" indentation right above the top lip of the sleeve. These are cheap @ ~$6.00 ea. IF any of these are loose or have popped out it is best to at minimum to install new ones. Really best to do them all as once you do 1 they are easy.

As for the metal pencil shaped actual fuel injector, those pull out not to tough even if in the car. Make sure to use new rubber o-rings when install.

So, which are you contemplating and/or having questions about since I just rambled off here...?
Bob

I see now ... I was under the impression that you could "punch" the inside of the intake runner ... hence, staking it in.

I took the day off and am nearly ready for the install. I have pics but I will post them later.

Unfortunately I had a major set back tonight. I had to say goodbye to Buster, my 16 year old Jack Russell Terrier. He passed at around 8:30 p.m.

Buster was with me 24 hours a day every day - right next to me at work, right next to me in bed, licking his paws while I was in the shower. I will miss him terribly.

Hopefully I can pull myself together for tomorrow. If not, Kevin and I will get some stuff done and then wait until a better time.

I'm going to be succinct becuase after having parents, relatives, friends, and pets die; I've found that there is no right thing to say and almost nothing comes out right, but... man i'm sorry dude.

Andy

Yup, it hurts. They are part of the family.

Thanks guys. Yes, today was quite tough. Kevin came over and put me to work - he got me laughing a bunch too which was nice.

We got to the point of getting the engine and tranny back in and then stopped. I was a long day and I needed some rest. Hopefully I can complete all of the connections and fire her up tomorrow.

Today we (Kevin for the most part) installed the clutch, replaced two tranny seals, installed the exhaust, got the engine off of the stand and completely mounted into the car ... a pretty good day.

Here are some pics.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1218327761.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1218327775.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1218327797.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1218327819.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1218327841.jpg

sorry for the loss Craig... hard to say the right thing when this happens, but, time does heal all...

Great to see that you got out and got a lot accomplished on the car... that will help keep your mind off of stuff and surly pass the time...

Take care !!
Bob

Sorry to hear of your dog....
It is amazing that we buy into the fact they will be with us for 10-15 years and every time we lose one it impacts our lives so much....
It is amazingly hard....
It is good on the other hand to see you making progress... Post some start up video for us, will you?
Best!

Craig, I am sorry about Buster. If I didnt say the right thing when you told me yesterday it was because I didnt know the right thing to say. I do hope the progress was good therapy. We are so close.
If anyone wants their transmission cleaned send it to Craig. The photos don't show what a fine job he did. I think with the cleaner and Craig's time it will be slightly less than the price of a GT-3.
Keep up the good work, Craig. Can't wait to see the smile on your face when it cranks the first time.

What is wrong with my hard oil line?
 

Ok, I am trying to install this hard oil line - same one that is used when people back date.

I have seen pics of this before and I understand that the bracket on the oil line should be anchored to the engine tin near the oil cooler. Mine is WAY off.

When I tighten the line to the case the line kicks out towards the shock - away from the engine tin where it should be anchored.

Is my line messed up? Is it crooked?

There is no way for me to get it away from the shock b/c the fitting on the oil line forces it in that direction as the line fits into the case when tightened.

Please disregard the ghetto bracket.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1218595740.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1218595754.jpg

Crooked? The line bends away from the angle of the case fitting.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1218595782.jpg

just bend it into position. gently.

Yeah, bending isn't bad... lol, you should see the times we've taken a block of wood and a hammer to an oil line becuase something was rubbing in a race... they're pretty stout.

thanks fellas!

You need to keep Kevin workin'. Not reading RiceRods like you show in your photo! ;)

WE HAVE LIFT OFF!

YES!

Kevin came over early this morning to help wrap up the final tid bits - add washers to pressure plate bolts (removed starter to gain access), intall hard oil line, install clutch components, install sway bar, and add oil.

After a couple of hours trying to start her up with no luck, I mentioned to Kevin that I may have installed the dizzy at the wrong end of TDC. We corrected that error and she fired right up.

We ran her for 20+ minutes then shut her down. The alternator was not working which I later discovered was caused by a missing woodruff key - the fan can't spin the alternator if the woodruff key knocked out of its place.

Besides the alternator issue, there may be an exhaust leak. Not sure exactly where it is coming from but I checked all of the nuts and everything was tight. Could have to do with the gaskets. Need to investigate.

I am happy to say that there were no fuel or oil leaks. Dry as a bone!

Tomorrow I will install the bumper and then take her for a drive.

Sweet... why'd you take the bumper off, btw... just to clear the Bursch?

Awesome man, the first engine you build is always fun!

I think by the looks of it, Kevin was reading Wayne's book, 101 Projects for your Porsche 911...at least it looks like he is.

Great promotion for Wayne's website too, huh? Here, the thread is featuring lots of information, pictures and tips from the Pelican community as to how the engine work should transpire, and from Wayne's Engine rebuilding book, How to Rebuild and Modify Porsche Engines. And, all of the wonderful "experienced" engine builders are present to keep things moving in a very positive direction. Way cool!

Sorry about your dog, I know how you must feel. In my eighteen years of handling and living with them all, it doesn't make things easy when one passes. I still miss them all.:(

Great job on the engine! Have fun with the drive tomorrow. I'm keeping my fingers crossed for a good run.SmileWavy

Thanks Andy.

We took the bumper off in order to get the engine out. Not enough clearance with the jack stands at their highest setting.

Ok, I took the car for 2 driving sessions today. All is great except that the alternator light is STILL on and my exhaust sounds like crap.

Before I replace the alternator, I'd like to investigate other possibilities.

Here is the scoop:
The alternator light and OXS lights are on (and BRIGHT) until I hit roughly 2000 RPMs and then both dim out completely as the RPMs increase. Not sure why the OXS light is on again. I just reset it 3000 miles ago. Maybe it came on after hitting 130,000 k miles?

Anyhow, the 101 Projects book (p.62) does not include this scenario in its troubleshooting guidelines. The closest match is when the alternator light is dim to start and then goes out with RPM increase. Mine starts bright and goes out.

The voltage with the engine running is around 11 and with the engine off it is 12. I had to charge the battery overnight due to the alternator not working yesterday. It is a red top optima - about 6 months old.

Any ideas?

did you get the regulator plugged in? OR is it internally regulated? I had weird issues with mine when I switched motors and did not realize the new motor needed an external regulator. The Alternator is NOT working at 11 right? should be 14.

Has internal VR ... it is the same alternator that was in it before I pulled it out and it was working fine prior to putting in the rebuilt engine. I replaced the VR just over a year ago.

I took a look at the tranny ground and it seems fine.

I do have an alternator from the 80 engine but I can't get it to separate from the fan housing to save my life!!!!!

Very frustrating indeed.