20W50 plus EOS should do it.

You could get 1 Quart GM-EOS from a local GM dealer and pour it into the oil tank before you fill the rest of the oil.

Auxillary trombone or radiator oil cooler will only work with air flowing though them. If you like, you can put a small fan into the right wheel well and point it at the cooler. Not sure what difference it would make?

Excellent. Thanks for the oil tips.

I do have the finned elephant racing lines installed and a carrera cooler in the front passenger wheel well (no fan though).

As you can see in my pics, I have a huge industrial fan in my garage. I could either direct that over the engine or at the carrera cooler.

Craig, One thing you may consider is to push the car out of the garage. Not a huge help for the oil temp, which will likely get hotter than norm. This is just because everything will be new. But the smells and smoke, etc. will cause wife and small animals to complain. The fan would do best over the cooler I would think. The engine fan pulls plenty of air across the engine itself.

Leave yourself lots of room around the engine because you'll be busy looking at top and bottom for leaks.
The car is best left on stands for the run-in so you can get at the bottom.
Keep a set of wrenches handy, rags and a fire extinguisher.

Ya, we are looking at mid to upper 90s this weekend. I hope it won't be that hot the following weekend when we crank her up.

I will rely on your sage advice as to whether or not it is a good idea to break it in with this kind of heat.

I took my current engine for its last drive this morning before removing the oil.

It was the first time that I used the purge valve on my finned oil lines. It worked out quite well - lots of additional oil was forced into the oil tank and out into my bucket.

Anyhow, the important thing is this ... I was wondering if I should disconnect my decel vavle during the first break-in drive?

With the valve connected, it really slows RPM drops between shifts. Opinions?

I don't see any reason to disconnect the Decel Valve.
It is unlikely that the mixture will be right on start-up meaning you'll be busy adjusting as the engine coughs and sputters; keep it on the rich side and watch the oil pressure!
The important break-in occurs during the 20-30 Minutes of running before the drive while the car is still on jack stands.
During that time, revving up and down, after the engine is hot, begins to seat the rings in the lands.
The first drive with varying RPM's continues that process.
If the rings don't seat during the initial start-up, they won't seat later IMHO.

I suggest that you soak all injectors submerged in a small can filled with injector cleaner for couple days and blow them out with air.

Mine is always disconnected. But then, I'm not a tree hugger.

Ok, couple of questions.

1) Why would the mixture need adjusting?

The CIS is on my current motor and is properly adjusted. I am going to pull it off of the motor, replace the intake boots, change the injector o-rings, and clean it up some ... then put it on the new motor.

I understand that the mixture may change if there is currently a leak around the intake boots or injector o-rings. But if not, why would the mixture change? I guess that a tired engine could require a richer mixture ... but I don't see it being off too much.

Also, wouldn't I rather it be a little lean than rich? I thought that a rich condition would quickly wash away the oil on the cylinder walls.


2) Are you suggesting that I rev the engine during the 15-20 minute intial run?

I thought that I was supposed to get the RPMs up over 2000 using the bypass screw and then leave it at that for 15-20 mins. Have not read that I am supposed to vary the RPMs

I actually prefer it connected. I like how it holds RPMs up in between shifts.

We should use more plastic b/c we need to save the trees ... oh wait ... now plastic is bad and will be the ruin of the world. :rolleyes:

If your'e lucky, the mixture will be alright, hm.........maybe not.

Different engine builders use different ways to break in an engine.
After initial start, I watch the pressure, leave it running for about 10 Minutes at 2k, then rev it up and down between 2-4k for a good 20 Minutes.
Change oil.
Go for a drive with lots of revving up and down meaning I would stay in 3rd, rev up to 4-5k, then lift off and let the car push the engine; do the same in 4th for many Miles.
The rings should be seated by now.
After the drive, I just replace the filter and keep the oil for another 2-3k Miles.
Do what makes you feel good because there are variations by different people.

Ha ... yes, many opinions out there. I like the idea of keeping it at 2k for 10 mins and then varying the RPMs for 20 mins after that. Seems to make sense b/c it will help seat the rings at varying RPMs.

I always wondered why you would keep it at constant RPMs during the first 20 mins ... then vary the load on the first actual drive. Seems like the first 20 would be more crucial for allowing the rings to seat throughout the RPM range.

Thanks for the tips.

I would say there is a very good chance the mixture will be off IF you find all the leaks. There is a million places to get an air leak on the CIS. DOnt forget the breather system to the oil tank is an air leak for the CIS and will screw up the mixture. There is a good chance that your new motor will be tighter or you will find a split hose or loose clamp and eliminate that leak on the re-install and then the mixture will be toast.

One suggestion pull the rubber hose that runs from the oil tank to the back of the Throttle body on the currently running motor and plug the hole on the T body. Then adjust the running like that. I always got a lot of leaks from that system for some reason. I also found that it ran better on a tired engine without out all that oily smoke going back in the intake (but that is another story).

Any way its just one less leak to worry about. You will need to add a breather and catch can for the port off the old tank where the above line was or it spews all over your engine compartment.

Also, what ever you do dont inadvertently plug the oil tank so it cant breath some where. It operates under pressure and you will get leaks that you never knew were possible.

I guess one way to check your system is pull your oil cap off your existing running engine and if the RPMs drop you are OK for the most part. IF the RPMs dont change you have an air leak that some one has dialed the CIS mixture in to work with.

I drained the oil today ... so no more opportunities to adjust things on the CIS.

Removing the oil cap creates a strong drop in RPMs. Never had any issues there.

Youll be fine. I have never run in a new engine but my worst fear has always been some problem with the ignition or injection that I cant figure out and I cant keep it running for more than a few secs or it wont start :-) I have night mares about screwing up the rings, bearings, cams and rockers on a fresh rebuild because I cant keep it running......

I guess I am a candidate to have a pro do the rebuild/run in so I dont worry about it.

You must be anxious!!

I never really considered that possibility. Maybe it is b/c I know that my current system is running fine and all I need to do is replace the engine :eek:. Gives me a little comfort at least.

Yep, anxious but still a lot of work ahead of me. Dropping the engine, pulling CIS and cleaning it, pulling exhaust, etc.

Old engine came out today. Kevin came over early in the morning to show me the ropes. Took about 2 hours to get the engine out. Another hour to get the tranny out. I think ... it was all kind of a blur.

Everything went silky smooth. Dirty but smooth. I did find that I need a new clutch as it was pretty worn. Here are some photos.

The required photo of me inside of the engine compartment.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1217719936.jpg

Old engine.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1217719951.jpg

Tranny and Kevin's greasy handprint.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1217719971.jpg

Underneath.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1217719985.jpg

Garage.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1217719999.jpg


I still have tons to do before the install next weekend. Almost there!

Great job there mca !!
Can you do me a favor... can you take 3~4 pics of the cis on the engine... top view looking down, all 4 sides as front back, r & l side... please
This would help me greatly as I am cobbling together a cis sys from many systems... please refresh my memory what yr this engine is coming out... 81 maybe ?
Thanks in advance, I hope, as these pics would be a TON of help to me... see my pics of where I am... "now where do I begin ??
Thanks
Bob

another engine rebuild thread - 80 3.0L
 

here are my pics...http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1217764102.jpg

and

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1217764144.jpg

Tight time table. :)

Flywheel grind?
New Sachs Power Clutch would be nice.

Now is the time to check/replace some seals on the transmission.
Condition of the guide tube?
Recondition the cross shaft, new bushings, seals.
Check the release fork for wear and cracks.

Check/repack the CV's?

Rebuild the starter?

+1

I noticed the machete on the wall ,too. But EVERYONE knows what that's for..... to protect vandals from getting their hands on your 11 blade fan, of course. Good luck on the engine. Be sure to have a machine shop do your heads and case, not worth the hassle and I figure if you don't have an engine stand you most likely don't have anything to grind valves. If you can affored it go with a new set of Mahles. Also, be sure to check the squirters in your cam towers to see that thay are open and clean. I assume you'll be using all your "on top" stuff from your other engine?
Re: Engine stand.... You can get regular a engine stand for about $49 and in Excellence Magazine there's an ad in the back for a 911 yoke "ring" that fits into a standard engine stand whole pattern.... it's only $130. or less.
Moving your engine around: Get a small square floor dolly 22$ at HomeDepot, (4wheels) 20" x 20", then have some friends help you muscle the engine onto it. Now you can run a jumbo floor jack under the dolly and raise it to the engine stand height. After you finish the engine you can lower it again onto the dolly with the floor jack.....so your can now lift it up under your car ( ready on jack stands about 30" off the ground ) and up into your engine compartment. I recommend you drop you existing engine always with the transmissionn attached. With trans attached you will need to slide everything so center of gravy is nearer to the engine/ trans split line.... you'll see what I mean. Also, The mistake most people make is trying to install an engine while the car is only raise at the back. THE CAR MUST BE LEVEL SO THE ENGINE GOES STRAIGHT UP SO THE 4 MOUNTS MEET EVENLY. 2 at the engine cross member and 2 at the transmission. Don't forget to r/r the earth strap at the trans end. Glad to help if you have any questions. I was were you are now and you only get better as you do more and more. I used to think how nice it would be to have a place you can work on engine while others worked on theirs. Kind of like I got better playing guitar hanging playing along with people better than me. regards, RS

Had no idea you were this far along.... good for you. Maybe my advice will help for next time. RS

Hi RelaySwitcher,

You must have started reading this thread from the "end". The rebuild is done. The engine is off of the engine stand and he is getting ready to reinstall the engine....

But I am sure someone else will profit from your suggestions!

Excellent write-up. Great work!

I will PM you and get your email and send pics there. I have TONS of them.

The CIS is coming off of the 82 and being put on the rebuilt 80.

Flywheel already done.

Ordering clutch and tranny seals tomorrow.

CVs will be cleaned and repacked.

Not sure about the guide tube and the cross shaft ... I need Kevin's help with those items since this is all new to me. Hard to determine when something is worn when you have never seen a new one before.

15 hours in the garage today. Focus was on cleaning up CIS and tearing down the items on top of the old engine for use on the new one.

Here is a pic of the finished CIS minus the fuel injectors. I pulled all of them and decided to go ahead and order some new injector sleeves. The seals were super brittle.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1217817412.jpg

Can someone please help me identify these to connections indicated by the ? on the blue tape? I am holding the WUR connection to provide a point of reference. Both of those connections were strays - found them after pulling CIS.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1217817630.jpg

I think the one on the bottom goes to the heater blower motor which you are hopefully doing away with. The other goes to a black round thingy that has a vacuume hose on each side, I forget what it does (decel valve). I dont see it on the top picture I think it attaches to the manifold some where...sorry not much help.

thanks mca... I will check my inbox for pm or you can email me direct at bobf@design-associates.us
By the way, I thought I remembered something similar to my resto to yours... I am working on an 82 targa tub of which I have the matching # hole in the side case, cis, etc and a donor 80 long block of which I am trying to figure out where what goes where

Thanks for the offer to send pictures... I cant wait as this will save my bacon and tons of time on the already 7+ yrs resto...
Bob

The heater blower seems right on. Thanks for that!

The other one is still a mystery. The decel valve doesn't have any current and has a vacuum hose that runs to a nipple on the cruise control servo.

mca:
Yes on the plug for fan blower; I think the other one is for something called Thermo Time Switch which you may not have; no problem.

Check/replace the 2 plastic bushings in the shaft that actuates the throttle linkage. (The item on the left in your picture)

After installing the new injector sleeves, some Vaseline on the new O-rings makes it easier to get the injectors in.

You absolutely need to clean and paint the shroud! You'll love it! :cool:

Attached picture with painted shroud plus Fan Blower, A/C, and Cruise delete. :)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1217861388.jpg

Gorgeous. Looks fantastic!

I cleaned my shroud last night. Honestly it looks super so I don't plan on painting it. The only rough area is where the plug wires come across the fan shroud to 4,5, and 6. The wires will cover it up though.

My thermo time has a connection. Got that one marked.

Regarding the injectors ... Bentley says to soak o-rings in fuel for a few mins before installing. Is that correct?

Also, I am assuming that I can put the injectors in after intalling the CIS onto the engine (obviously before putting the engine in the car). I don't see where it would be a problem but I just wanted to see if that was okay to do or if it would be difficult trying to work around the fuel lines.

Thanks,
Craig

I bet that plug does not go on that year. I know my 78 motor had that plug and it went to a doo hicky on the drivers side of the engine on top of the intake pipes. I believe I had to rig up a way to support it when I took the heater blower stuff out because the mount for it was on the side of the heater blower assembly. I want to say thermotime switch was correct but if you already have that plugged up... I dont know.

The thermo-time switch is on the left chain cover. Two wires connect to it separately. Similar to how the wires split on the right chain cover to the oil pressure sensor and the temp sensor.

The mystery wire was fully wrapped in electrical tape so it wasn't as if it broke free on accident.

Another interesting tid bit is that the 82 has a 35 degree celsius switch which is screwed into the breather cover (only on 81-83). Had to pull cover from the 82 engine and put it on the rebuilt 80 engine since I am using the CIS and harness from the 82.

I seem to be missing the "additional 15 degree throttle position switch" which is also on the 81-83 models.

Both of these are covered on page 240-28 of the Bentley.

The mystery connection in your photo connects to the cruise control vacuum servo located far forward on the driver's side of your engine compartment. It is visible from your photos of your empty engine compartment.

I knew it had a vacuum line involved! :-)

Fritz ... THANK YOU.

That may explain why my cruise control never worked.

Wonder why someone would pull it and wrap it with electrical tape. Maybe someone forgot to reconnect it after working on the harness?

I think that I will keep it unplugged but I will make the wire accessible for future tests. If the PO disconnected it for a good reason, I don't want to find out about it when I try to crank her up for the first time.

Again, thanks a ton.

I thought that I would mention a strange dream last night.

While my brain was processing wiring data all night and making connections (ugh, rough night) it managed to formulate a dream worth remembering.

The car was on stands and I cranked it up for the first time. She purred beautifully. I remember being completely blown away by the new found horse power ... yet the car never left the garage.

Somehow I was feeling the engine kick me back in my seat without the tires on the ground. It sure was nice though.

Hopefully this is foreshadowing if good things to come :).

There are lots of reasons why your cruise control wouldn't work. If that plug wasn't connected, it definitely wouldn't. I'm a bit anal about getting every system on my 83 SC to work correctly, and I've spent lots of time on my cruise control. If you decide you want to get your system operating, let me know and I'll share what I've done with mine. There are a number of threads about these early cruise control systems available and that's where I did my research. My system works very well and I enjoy using it when driving on boring interstate when I want to avoid inadvertently staying at that 90+ MPH sweet spot.