3.2 swap not running

[pookie]

Well with some help from the dorkis I got the 3.2 shoe horned into my 76. But I haven't been able to get it to run right.

Here is what is going on. When you crank it, it turns over, tries to start, idles really rough and then just dies. Repeated starts have it smoothing out some, but it still won't idle for more than a few seconds. And once in a while when you try to start it the idle will really race and then sputter and die. I believe everything is hooked up correctly but I'm not sure. I've got some photos of the wiring and I've got a video of it trying to start.

The DME, DME relay and altitude adjuster thingy are all hooked up under the seat, I didn't take a pic of those.

The wiring in the front trunk, the thin red wire from the wiring harness is hooked to the third fuse from the left. The two thin black wires from the harness are wired to the fuse on the far right. The yellow wire, the green wire and the black with the funky connector I did not use. I know the black/violet goes to the tach but I haven't hooked it up yet. The thick black wire is hooked up to the battery. And the thin tiny baby blue wire goes to my stereo.

The fourth pic shows the harness in the engine bay. It is hooked straight into the plug from the car. I removed two wires from the harness per MarcA's wiring notes from his install.

And finally the last pic shows where one valve was plugged on the driver side top of the motor. The heat has been backdated so there is no heater motor.

http://muvvachicken.com/images/carstart.MPG


Tell me what you think.

[ischmitz]

If things were hooked up wrong it wouldn't even start. Have you made sure the sensors at the flywheel have the specified clearance. That could be one culprit. However, let's try the simple things first:


How long has the engine been sitting? Was it more than a couple of month since it last ran. If that is the case my guess is that it is not running on all barrels. One or more injectors are stuck close. Feel the exhaust ports right above the heat exchangers after it sputers for half a minute. If one or more are stone-cold you have your answer. Ususally a light tapping with a screwdriver handle onto the injector while the engine is running will cure this.

Good luck and keep us updated.
Ingo

[onboost]

Did you swap in the correct fuel pump?

Also, think the yellow wire your problem.. can't remember where it goes ( been awhile since I did a 3.2 swap) ut believe it may e the one that allows the DME to run the pump.

When swapping 3.2 into an SC this wire is connected into the chassis harness just under the drivers side cowl venting.... then we spliced into the thickyellow wire in the harnes. If I can find my notes I'll post again.

Good luck!

[mackskibum]

Check the AFM- maybe its stuck or the wiring is loose?

[PcarPhil]

Originally Posted by ischmitz

If things were hooked up wrong it wouldn't even start. Have you made sure the sensors at the flywheel have the specified clearance. That could be one culprit. However, let's try the simple things first:


How long has the engine been sitting? Was it more than a couple of month since it last ran. If that is the case my guess is that it is not running on all barrels. One or more injectors are stuck close. Feel the exhaust ports right above the heat exchangers after it sputers for half a minute. If one or more are stone-cold you have your answer. Ususally a light tapping with a screwdriver handle onto the injector while the engine is running will cure this.

Good luck and keep us updated.
Ingo

I've been working with pookie on the troubleshooting and I too keep wondering about the sensors. I also suggested he hook up a test light to a fuel injector wire connector to see if the DME is sending the signal to pump fuel.

[PcarPhil]

Originally Posted by onboost

Did you swap in the correct fuel pump?

Also, think the yellow wire your problem.. can't remember where it goes ( been awhile since I did a 3.2 swap) ut believe it may e the one that allows the DME to run the pump.

When swapping 3.2 into an SC this wire is connected into the chassis harness just under the drivers side cowl venting.... then we spliced into the thickyellow wire in the harnes. If I can find my notes I'll post again.

Good luck!

The 3.2 fuel pump is not needed (though he has one). A CIS fuel pump works just fine for a 3.2 swap. I'm running a '77 CIS fuel pump with my 3.2 swap.

I just went through a 3.2 swap. The yellow wire is not needed to make the 3.2 engine run.

I'll take a pic of my front fusebox wiring later today.

[pookie]

I did have to remove one of the flywheel sensors when I was putting the 3.2 on the stand. But I thought I put it back on correctly. How do you know if that sensor is on correctly?

We initially thought that the clutch fork and throw out bearing were misaligned but without an engine drop we can't check that.

Scott's right I am using the fuel pump from my 3.0 but I have the 3.2 pump if I need it.

I'll check the injectors in a few minutes and let you know.

[jcunning]

Originally Posted by Kaefer

I just went through a 3.2 swap. The yellow wire is not needed to make the 3.2 engine run.

Do we know what the yellow wire is for?
Maybe power for the shift light circuit?

I'm in the middle of my swap and hooking up the wires to the fusebox.

My SC chassis does have a yellow wire coming from the ignition that I can easily hook up.

[3.2 CAB]

There is a picture that you posted, showing a "Y" shaped tee. If that is not completely air tight, you will get an engine start, but it will run like CRAP. That tubing is a major vacuum line that crosses over from one side of the engine to the other. The straight end that you have taped up, is what would be going to the brake vacuum booster, along with a couple of other vacuum supplied items, it is also where the cruise control vacuum line is sourced. If the large line is not sealed on all openings, the engine will start, but it will run like $hit then die if you don't keep manually actuating the throttle lever at the throttle body. I would really take a close look at that entire line to make sure that it is not leaking anywhere. Good luck!! Tony.

[pookie]

Well I'm getting ready to give up. Now it won't even start.

Here is what happened, you guys saw the video I made that last week. Last night I took the pictures you see on this thread. I moved the wires in the engine bay for a better pic. I had them tucked up underneath the little metal bracket. And I moved some of the wires in the trunk so you could get a better view of them I moved the loose wires in the trunk, nothing that is hooked up to the fuse panel.

Fast forward to today. I was just kind of looking at wires to make sure I had stuff in all the right spots. I tapped on the fuel injectors and the fuel rails with the end of a screwdriver like someone suggested, and I tried to start the car. Nothing. I can hear the fuel pump running, it makes a click and nothing. No crankie.

I seariously am ready to give up. After it wouldn't start I walked away. I was ready to throw the stupid thing and I realized I would have begun beating it had I not walked away.

Anyone have any ideas as to what I should do?

[3.2 CAB]

Be patient! It sounds like the battery is now a little low. Pull the cables and charge it with a slow rate charge. Once you get the battery back up, you can actually manually feed it some fuel, then try to start it, if it fires right up, then quickly dies, it probably is not getting fuel. It could also still be a major vacuum leak(causes about the same symptoms that you mentioned earlier) I know some people that use starting fluid, but I prefer not to use it on my 3.2. A shop rag with a load of fuel on it will accomplish the same thing, until there is too little fuel to keep it running. If you do use the fuel saturated shop cloth, make sure your air filter is still in place, you don't want it sucked into the engine. It may take a bit to get things worked out, but I believe that you will prevail. Just take your time, if you start getting antsy with it, just back off for a while. Good luck!! Tony.

[marcesq]

Ryan,

All of the above info regarding the vacuum lines, injectors, is valid and used to help trouble shoot.

Here are my thoughts based on your PM.

1. There are a couple fittings on the back of the throttle body and air box that need to be plugged or you will have vacuum leaks.

2. I assume, but can't see it, that you hooked up the fuel return line that was on the accumulator. Now unhook it if you can get to it to make sure fuel flows there (A lot of fuel).

3. The gap between the lower (speed) sensor and flywheel ring gear. It should be .08 mm + .03 mm.

4. Do not use the Red/Green wire from pin 2 of the DME relay this will cause a loop back. Pre '84 cars had a separate fuel pump relay [they didn't have DME relays, and brains ] and you want to use that circuit.

5. The yellow wire from the DME harness is for the upshift arrow on the Carrera tach, not used on your car.

6. Make sure you have the DME Sensors connected to the right harness connector on the tree.

7. I can't remember at this point, but there was a reason that I used the 3.2 fuel pump in place of the 2.7 unit.

8. Clean the Idle Control Valve with WD40 and then blow dry.

9. Make sure fuel damper vacuum lines are connected correctly.

Hope that helps.