Milt, they work about like force, load sensors.

"blows the 4% right out of the water"

You assume they really meet the specs, and do so after substantial use. Not so.

At the risk of sounding like a shill for this 'Precision Instruments' company, I found this nice write-up:

http://www.webbikeworld.com/r3/torque-wrench/

If you're asking mechanically how they work... :confused:

3.2 Cab - Your stable of cars make me sick!
Especially your new addition!

Very nice! :cool:

I have both the split beam and the clicker. At the end of the day, I agree with GH85Carrera, if I can't see the damn face, it is useless regardless how accurate the split beam is.

The important thing is store at lowest marked level then prime before use at low settings then the Clicker will stay more accurate and last longer. Ask my buddy Rnln how many he has replaced before reading the manual.

My .02

Just ordered a PI split beam 3/8 drive. :)

Stable
 

Thrlls, my insurance person loves me! This is because, there is only one of me, but there is actually 15 in the paddock, and the insurance people know that I can't drive all at one time so they are making a good bet with me, and making a sizable profit margin with low risk. It helps me, in keeping LOW MILEAGE vehicles. The site won't let me add any more in there, like the 750iL, Dodge Cummins extended cab, 1ton dually, etc. But, I am afraid that I will be having to start thinning the herd, because of Med/Physical limitations. So flee-bay might start seeing some lead into the ring. SmileWavy

I have even checked the calibration of my clickers using a vise mounted to a heavy workbench and a bathroom scale. You stand on the scale, select the torque then pull up or push down until it just clicks, then read the scale and adjust as needed. This may sound kind of Rube Goldberg, but I have done this several times, then tested them against my neighbor's professional-grade torque wrenches for comparison. They check out within the claimed 4% accuracy.
I think more damage is probably done by torquing to the wrong spec than using an innacurate torque wrench, IMHO. Even the cheapie HF torque wrenches are fine for the majority of applications. BUT, if you are assembling the Space Shuttle, rebuild engines for a living or service fighter aircraft, a higher-grade, more accurate tool should be used, for obvious reasons.

this is infact very scientific, nothing crude about it. It however is limited to the accuracy of your bathroom scale, and we all know that bathroom scale lies to protect the overweight owners, ah, inocents.

I just bought this, it has yellow, green and red LEDs and also beeps.

It gives you warning as you approach the set value and then displays the final value when you are done. It is based on a strain gauge technology so pretty accurate.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1207780844.jpg

What it taught me is all these times, as I was using the clicker, the final torque was 30-40% higher than the set values because I tend to make it click and then go past it. Never had any problems but ... so much for having absolute accurate torques. Since then, I have ... um, altered my expectations some.

Ok I will bite, who makes it, where can I find one, and how much does one cost? What range of torque can it measure? Like everyone else I want a 99.9% accurate tool that measures from 1 to 400 Lbs ft and cost under 50 bucks :) Something has to give, is it price, availability, or accuracy. I suspect accuracy is the most important value.

Not beyond a certain point!

Remember, the fastener does not care about torque at all. It cares about strain (or stress -- if you muss') in compression. That is what we really want to set - the axial force on the bolt.

I seriously doubt that the correlation between torque and compression on the fastener is anywhere near 99.9% accurate.

That is why fasteners (ARP rod bolts) that really need to be accurately tightened do NOT use a torque wrench to do it.

Your friendly Sears tool store, about $200 when they have a sale. Two models are offered, one is good up to 100 lb.ft, the other up to 200 lb.ft, about the same price. Takes 3 AAA batteries to light, beep and act real cool.

What is the general consensus regarding the old style with the pointer that just rotates on a dial...no clicker or split beam or electronics involved? Not sure what these are called. I have a clicker and just got one of these "manual", for lack of a better term, since I'd read they are very accurate but not very useful if you can't clearly see the face. I was going to use it for the case reassembly when I get the heads back from Walt at CE.
Thanks,

Works well, accurate to what reading you can read from the dial. This is normally in the 5lbs increment. And your eyes must be exactly squared to the gauge scale, which is extremely hard to do when you are torquing something inside a 911 enginne compartment like the head nuts on the top rows of the intake side.

Other than that, it works great for tires lug nuts.

Thanks, I've also got a method pictured in my mind that may help check the clicker model I have...using some sort of double bolt set up to connect the two wrenches. Just to see what happens.