Torq wrench: split beam or std clicker?
 

Does anyone have any experience with the 'split beam' type clicker torque wrench? They claim adjustment is simpler and doesn't need to be set to zero for storage..

I'm only familiar with the classic click type micro adjusters...

thx

The ONLY ones to buy are the split beam wrenches for their sheer consistency and reliability. The other click-type ones can be easily thrown out of calibration by either improper storage or misadjustment.

Thanks Steve, that's reassuring coming from you. I'm looking at precision instruments for a 'mid' priced torque wrench.

I have 2 of the "good" type, and a large family of the clicker type that are all purpose. The clicker type get stored properly and used properly. The 2 certified wrenches, are for certain tasks, plus I use them to check the calibration on the clicker ones. They were not cheap, but real quality usually isn't. They even stay in the house, in my parts room, till needed.

Glad you posted this, I need a torque wrench also. Wondering if anyone has specific brand and model wrench to recommend as ideal for working on old 911's? source for purchase? (not something you'd want to buy used on Ebay).

Maybe this ?...buy a beam type, will never go out calibration, unwieldy to use. Buy a click type and calibrate it's readings against the beam periodically. The clicker then doesn't need to be stupid expensive...just "correct" and calibrated when it needs to be.

This has been gone over a few times. I have 4 torque wrenches... 1 Beam and 3 clickers of different ranges: big, medium, small. the beam one I use infrequently as it is hard to read and hard to get precise on.

*shrug*

the clickers are sears and harbour freight kind. there was a thread on here where a guy had his cheapo torque wrench checked at an Aircraft caibration place... it was not off by a material amount.

I have considered buying another one... they have a digital set one at Harbour freight... would save me doing calculations in my head and mixing up the scales for ft lbs and N ms...

Best regards,

Michael

I have a new electronic strain-gauge type from Sears. Accurate to 3%. I like it.

Big sweeping statements of the superlatives for clicker, or for split beam are hard to take seriously.

I have a split beam, as well as a couple of "clicker" torque wrenches.

Split beam:
Pros:

• Not having to zero it for storage.
• It's got a 2% accuracy rating.

Cons:

• The adjustment is marked in 5 lbs increments. Makes setting the torque at 88 ft/lbs kind of hard. A big con in my opinion.

Clicker:
Pros:

• Much easier to set to a specific torque value.
• Less expensive than split beams.

Cons:

• It's got a 4% accuracy, and only at 80% scale.
• You have to zero it for storage.

Which do I use more?

• The clicker.

Get one of each in 1/2" drive and a 3/8" drive clicker. You can check the clickers against the beam by tightening a bolt with the beam, then checking the clickers against it and adjusting the knurled knob on the end. The 3/8" clickers are good for lower range torques.
I have been told before by machinists that the purpose of a torque wrench is more to ensure that things are not over-tightened rather than too loose. For most purposes, getting close to specs should be sufficient. Perhaps with critical engine assemblies you need the torque to be on a gnat's a$$.

Having worn out my old torque wrench (Sears, I think?), I recently bought a click-type made by CDI Torque Products, a subsidiary of Snap-on. They are not cheap tools, but a lot less expensive than Snap-on. The quality, finish, and feel are absolutely first class.

Check E-Bay!
I have a very good Westward 1/2 drive clicker but didn't have a lower range one.
Picked up a next to new Snap on 3/8 drive flex head for less than half the price in Canada. Range 5-75 ft/lbs.. There is value out there if you look for it, nothing wrong with Sears stuff either...

WOW!
You have a parts room?
I'm jealous, I don't even have a parts bin...I have to use the garage floor and a table...working on getting a bin though. :D
I have both and use them almost in equal amounts, but I default to the clicker only because it can get to the odd torque ranges i.e. 88 ft/lbs. I also have a beam ft/inches for the lower torque ranges.

How in the world can you guys think you can use a beam to 'check' a clicker with any kind of accuracy??? Yeah, its got a 2% accuracy... sounds great, but whats your accuracy in hitting the mark on the dial gage? I know mine sux... ergo my skepticism ;) So effectively we're just getting a ball park guess. One that I think blows the 4% right out of the water so why bother? Maybe my beam wrench is of poor quality or I'm just an idiot and can't keep it steady and smooth enough to get an accurate torque on it...

Best regards,

Michael

There seems to be some confusion between 'beam' and 'split beam'
From what I understand, snap-on gets (or used to get) their split beams from these guys: http://www.torqwrench.com/

I have to agree that the beam has to be stable but yet hard to read especially in any position but square on top of the scale. This is not always possible under the car, etc. So, I have a beam which I can set a "standard" with and go on with the work using the convenience of a click.

The beam could use a larger scale for enhanced accuracy. I know I can't tell 88 from 85 looking at a sweeping needle. Maybe I shake too much. :D

I have both and use both for the proper application. The clicker type is sometimes the only way to get a torque setting. On many occasions, I can't get my face right in front of the scale. The beam type is useless if you can't see the scale. I use my clicker types way more than a beam type. When it comes to the lug nuts the clicker is the only way to go!

Here's a split beam, and they do click.

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop...E-C2FR100F.jpg

I don't post often so damned if I wasn't going to make that last one count.

Well, you made it count all right. So, please explain how the split beam works. I haven't used one.

Thrlls, yes I have a parts room in my house. I have one, 1/2" dial type indicator torque wrench that pretty much lives in there, along with the others, and all of the vintage NOS fuel pumps, water pumps, carbs and all other types of parts for my 1948-1953 Dodge trucks and the early 70's MOPAR's. I hardly use the dial torque wrench, because it is a brute, but it measures up to 600 Ft/Lbs and is almost 3 feet long and heavy. You can not do blind torque readings with it like you can the clicker types, being you have to see the dial gauge on the top surface of the wrench. I made up some double fittings, so one wrench can attach to another wrench, so I can verify how close to spec the everyday use wrenches are.