Shaun, It looks like a great project you have there! Im sure it will be perfect!! I must say that it makes the 1970t that Im starting to restore look like a walk in the park. Anyway, glad to see that you are fixing it correctly and it isnt getting parted!!!!

Shaun, It looks like a great project you have there! Im sure it will be perfect!! I must say that it makes the 1970t that Im starting to restore look like a walk in the park. Anyway, glad to see that you are fixing it correctly and it isnt getting parted!!!!

That's great. When you are ready for some of the smaller things like engine tin to be painted let me know. I can have them all zinc phosphated and electrocoated after being sand blasted.

Yup. need to find the correct yellow zinc. I've got about 80 pounds of hardware and various assemblies to replate from 4 cars, so I'm taking good pics of every nut and bolt that matters and then having the entire lot yellow and silver plated. I should be able to pull the correct, as assembled hardware from the batch.

let's talk early next year Mark. hope you had a nice weekend.

Do yourself a favor and go to www.bcwsupplies.com and pick up some mylar bags (2 mil should be fine) and some "extenders" to pull out some of the acid from all of those very old original papers. I can't believe they still look that good without proper document protection.

Kudos for taking on this project!!!

Do yourself a favor and go to www.bcwsupplies.com and pick up some mylar bags (2 mil should be fine) and some "extenders" to pull out some of the acid from all of those very old original papers. I can't believe they still look that good without proper document protection.

Kudos for taking on this project!!!

I am doing a 71S, this is how some of my original bolts looked like after plating. They are more gold colored in real life then in the picture. Front and rear lid locks are clear zinc, not yellow along with a few other parts. I took pictures of each part i disembled a long with the bolts, washers etc and put them in small bags. The plater had to do all the stuff togheter, so I am glad I took all the pictures, it was quite a puzzle to sort them back to tre correct bags after plating......

Johnhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1215409918.jpg

Thanks John, were these cadmium plated or yellow zinc plated? or do I have my terminology screwed up?

Did your plater discuss hydrogen enbrittlement issues on the high strength bolts? The place in TX I talked with says they bake high strength hardware to avoid this. some say it's not an issue.

On sorting, I have an ancient typesetter's cabinet with thousands of little boxes. Looking forward to that actually.

Shaun, I had to go for yellow/clear(also called blue) zinc. Cadmium Norway are now adays strictly for industrial use because of its poisonus carracter. The inbrittlement are no issue, as 99% of the hardware is 8.8 grade steel. This do not apply to internal engine nuts and bolts. Another exeption is the bolts that holds the sliders for the seats, they are 10.9 i think, but I had a factory in the UK make a bunch just like the originals. I can send you enough for the seats of your car if you like(gift). If you look at the parts manual, the workshop manual and/or the head of the bolts it should say what strenght the steel is. Another part I am not 100% sure about is the spring washers(look twisted and are very thin) They sertainly are of higher strenght steel, but mine held up their "springiness" just fine after they where zinc coated. And the spingwashers are not as essencial as there where originaly if you use zinc coated nolock nuts instead of the original non nylock nuts(at those places the springwashers where used, says where they are used in the parts manual).

best
John

Shaun,
Maybe you can sell tickets to your garage to finanace this project. I wouldn't mind having a look!
If you ever need a second set of hands, let me know. I live in Waltham.
Theo

I think once this thing is sandblasted and de-rusted, it's going to be a whole new ballgame. I think you should attach a video camera in the corner of your garage, and do stop-motion video for the next few years, so we can speed it up and watch the whole restoration in 5 minutes. :)

Theo, come on down anytime, I'll have a cold beer waiting.


I'm greatly looking forward to building a 3D jig for it, getting it bolted up and start cutting. torsion bar, longitudinals and rear deck are very strong. Inner rockers are OK, might be able to save them. Front crossmember mounting points are also very strong. So if I can tie the rear seat belts to the A-pillar door hinge mounts and a rack underneath, I should be able to freeze the tub in factory spec for floor, tunnel, and outer rocker work.

November is a possibility for making this happen.

We should all chip in because you are saving another Porsche from death.

Don't let anyone talk you out of the project, even if the longitudinals are shot. Just learn how to use an English Wheel and shot bag and buy a load of 18 ga. steel. My '68 was close to this condition . . . see www.1968cayman.com for proof. It hasn't been updated since work began, but you can see how sorry it was when the project began!!!

This will be fun ;)

John, in terms of yellow hardware, do you know which is factory correct? Yellow zinc or cad plating? The cad stuff I've seen is beautiful, but bright gold.

Shaun; yellow cad is correct, but its impossible to see the diff. and the anti corrosion effect is much the same.

John

As good an idea as the stop-motion camera is, I think you should consider whether or not you ever tend to use the garage as a . . . ahem . . . changing area before/after working. Not sure what forum rules are regarding nekkedness.

Good luck.

Good stance. I remember what a 40 year old original looks like and though a newly repaired, refinished example may not have the same patina. it will look good.

Having been restoring cars since able to drive. Any car is restorable. Those of us who have restored cars aproaching fifty years old know it is doable after lots of sandblasting and welding, and lots of paint. Dare I say the motor will awesome too.

Save more 911 guys. Stop parting them out!

Regards,

The steel has arrived, 4 lengths, 2 inch square x 24 feet long and some 1/4 inch plate they threw in.

Plan this weekend is to cut it all up and get at least 2 of the 4 trusses made along with the rear torsion bar cover plate verticals and hung on the E. The entire mini-Celette will be based off the E, used to finish that car, and then get the S mounted on it and tweaked as necessary.

Longitudinal trusses will mount at
* the 4 bosses surrounding the torsion bar tube and
* the bumper quarter J-tube holes
* the rear inner seat belt mounts via stays

Side stays will mount at the jack receiver, used only for placement.

That will keep the rear of the car in stasis.

the front will connect a standard steel steering crossmember with the forward horizontal truss and stays will mount at the front A-arm bosses.

My goal is to have all the rust repair done by the end of 2009.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1222198233.jpg

Cooooooooooooooooooooooool! I can't wait to see this develop.

why does this remind me of the big dig?

good luck!!

Shaun, a tip. The steel crossmembers are frequently tweaked, if only just the rearward 'ties'. I'd measure the mounting points on the E to make sure it is square in XYZ (make sure it is 'cube'??), then see if the crossmember mounts w/out having to be banged into place. Check again after mounting crossbar to confirm, and again after welding & bolting everything up. Then you know you've got a square jig for mounting up the Targa.

Good advice Dave, thanks. yes, this is going to be one of those measure 5 times, tack and mount, then measure 2-3 times more, then weld once deals. the E is the perfect basis for forming the jig, so as long as I can line all of those holes up, the S will follow suit. I have minor concerns about the hand-build nature of the cars, in the end, I'll have doors and fenders mounted on the S and will tweak and gap as needed. The door gaps on the S are already nice BTW.


Michael, I hope you have a lot of patience! :D

Nice dude!
 

I have been dealing with rust all summer and I have finally made some progress, I had new doors - (Fit poorly) old doors - FIt great, old fenders fit great new fenders fit poorly.
It's really funny how it all goes together with new stuff, lots of tweaking. Good luck and make sure to post alot of pictures when your done. That will be a cool ride!

JW

Shaun also i forgot to mention, I cut the center tunnel out of the 68 not sure if it would work for yours but before I scrap it I thought i would offer it.

JW

What's the story here? How did someone in MA find a 69S in a field in texas? Any intrigue?

Heading up to Boston shortly to visit a friend. Would love to check the car out and drop off a sixer of your favorite as a thank you from the pelican community for saving one.

A suitable donor may have been found. I just happened upon this car and bought it for parts alone. It's pretty rusty here and there, but if it proves to be a solid shell, I'll pass it along. 72 4-doors get a free pass from the sawzall.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1224354038.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1224354064.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1224354086.jpg

Any houses for sale next to you?

or at least a garage!

Cool project Shaun...and definitely a worthwhile save!

It would easier to take a mouse to the movies!

Sorry to get OT Shaun, but Lube, you have some of the best quotes... that one by Obama is so funny i's rediculous.

Back on topic: Shaun, wow, good luck friend... This is going to be one for the record books:D

i thought mine was in bad shape when i brought her home.... THANKS FOR THE MOTIVATION!http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1228714659.jpg

That's just begging for a powerwasher! What is it?

On the S, all work has stopped given that it will go to Damon's (Series900) in NH for all the welding work on a Celette bench. I started work on rebuilding the motor, but the spare case I bought turned out to be a dud.

I've been focusing on the E restoration more than anything. If I had 4 weeks of uninterrupted work, it would be painted and mostly reassembled.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1228742357.jpg

Best Save Ever. Subscribed.

You must have a very patient and loving and forgiving wife, or none at all! :rolleyes:

Its amazing how given enough time, mother earth can swallow a car back into the ground from where it came.

Shaun - would you be interested in weighing that engine carrier?

That' the heavy black chunk in the foreground - not the crossbar (the crossbar mounts to it)

Ohhhh my... what a brave soul!!