If you left your 69 Targa in a field in TX...

[Carrerax]

Shaun, It looks like a great project you have there! Im sure it will be perfect!! I must say that it makes the 1970t that Im starting to restore look like a walk in the park. Anyway, glad to see that you are fixing it correctly and it isnt getting parted!!!!

[Carrerax]

Shaun, It looks like a great project you have there! Im sure it will be perfect!! I must say that it makes the 1970t that Im starting to restore look like a walk in the park. Anyway, glad to see that you are fixing it correctly and it isnt getting parted!!!!

[Buckterrier]

Originally Posted by Shaun 84 Targa

this is going to be a straight restoration right down to the proper hardware (there were 5-6 different bolt suppliers over the early years) and anything that just needs to be cleaned more than it needs to be replaced will be so. I'm not a fan of just replacing everything and voila, you have a restored car. Some challenges will be selecting appropriate paints, the rear trailing arms for example. When I did the E's arms, it's future including track duty, I glass beaded them down to bare metal and POR15'd them. You can hit'em with a hammer (yes I tested) and the paint is fine. these I've got to be as close as possible to factory original.

That's great. When you are ready for some of the smaller things like engine tin to be painted let me know. I can have them all zinc phosphated and electrocoated after being sand blasted.

[Shaun @ Tru6]

Originally Posted by SP2

You gotta love the enthusiasm Shaun!

How are you gonna do the bolts? Just replate them?

Yup. need to find the correct yellow zinc. I've got about 80 pounds of hardware and various assemblies to replate from 4 cars, so I'm taking good pics of every nut and bolt that matters and then having the entire lot yellow and silver plated. I should be able to pull the correct, as assembled hardware from the batch.

[Shaun @ Tru6]

Originally Posted by Buckterrier

That's great. When you are ready for some of the smaller things like engine tin to be painted let me know. I can have them all zinc phosphated and electrocoated after being sand blasted.

let's talk early next year Mark. hope you had a nice weekend.

[khamul02]

Do yourself a favor and go to www.bcwsupplies.com and pick up some mylar bags (2 mil should be fine) and some "extenders" to pull out some of the acid from all of those very old original papers. I can't believe they still look that good without proper document protection.

Kudos for taking on this project!!!

[khamul02]

Do yourself a favor and go to www.bcwsupplies.com and pick up some mylar bags (2 mil should be fine) and some "extenders" to pull out some of the acid from all of those very old original papers. I can't believe they still look that good without proper document protection.

Kudos for taking on this project!!!

[zithlord]

I am doing a 71S, this is how some of my original bolts looked like after plating. They are more gold colored in real life then in the picture. Front and rear lid locks are clear zinc, not yellow along with a few other parts. I took pictures of each part i disembled a long with the bolts, washers etc and put them in small bags. The plater had to do all the stuff togheter, so I am glad I took all the pictures, it was quite a puzzle to sort them back to tre correct bags after plating......

John

[Shaun @ Tru6]

Thanks John, were these cadmium plated or yellow zinc plated? or do I have my terminology screwed up?

Did your plater discuss hydrogen enbrittlement issues on the high strength bolts? The place in TX I talked with says they bake high strength hardware to avoid this. some say it's not an issue.

On sorting, I have an ancient typesetter's cabinet with thousands of little boxes. Looking forward to that actually.

[zithlord]

Shaun, I had to go for yellow/clear(also called blue) zinc. Cadmium Norway are now adays strictly for industrial use because of its poisonus carracter. The inbrittlement are no issue, as 99% of the hardware is 8.8 grade steel. This do not apply to internal engine nuts and bolts. Another exeption is the bolts that holds the sliders for the seats, they are 10.9 i think, but I had a factory in the UK make a bunch just like the originals. I can send you enough for the seats of your car if you like(gift). If you look at the parts manual, the workshop manual and/or the head of the bolts it should say what strenght the steel is. Another part I am not 100% sure about is the spring washers(look twisted and are very thin) They sertainly are of higher strenght steel, but mine held up their "springiness" just fine after they where zinc coated. And the spingwashers are not as essencial as there where originaly if you use zinc coated nolock nuts instead of the original non nylock nuts(at those places the springwashers where used, says where they are used in the parts manual).

best
John

[muis]

Originally Posted by Shaun 84 Targa

Hey Michael, sounds good. send me an email later this week to plan for some day next week if that works for you.

Shaun,
Maybe you can sell tickets to your garage to finanace this project. I wouldn't mind having a look!
If you ever need a second set of hands, let me know. I live in Waltham.
Theo

[rennch]

I think once this thing is sandblasted and de-rusted, it's going to be a whole new ballgame. I think you should attach a video camera in the corner of your garage, and do stop-motion video for the next few years, so we can speed it up and watch the whole restoration in 5 minutes.

[Shaun @ Tru6]

Originally Posted by muis

Shaun,
Maybe you can sell tickets to your garage to finanace this project. I wouldn't mind having a look!
If you ever need a second set of hands, let me know. I live in Waltham.
Theo

Theo, come on down anytime, I'll have a cold beer waiting.

Originally Posted by emptyo

I think once this thing is sandblasted and de-rusted, it's going to be a whole new ballgame. I think you should attach a video camera in the corner of your garage, and do stop-motion video for the next few years, so we can speed it up and watch the whole restoration in 5 minutes.

I'm greatly looking forward to building a 3D jig for it, getting it bolted up and start cutting. torsion bar, longitudinals and rear deck are very strong. Inner rockers are OK, might be able to save them. Front crossmember mounting points are also very strong. So if I can tie the rear seat belts to the A-pillar door hinge mounts and a rack underneath, I should be able to freeze the tub in factory spec for floor, tunnel, and outer rocker work.

November is a possibility for making this happen.

[Brother]

We should all chip in because you are saving another Porsche from death.

[Jagshund]

Don't let anyone talk you out of the project, even if the longitudinals are shot. Just learn how to use an English Wheel and shot bag and buy a load of 18 ga. steel. My '68 was close to this condition . . . see www.1968cayman.com for proof. It hasn't been updated since work began, but you can see how sorry it was when the project began!!!

[Kroggers]

This will be fun

[Shaun @ Tru6]

Originally Posted by zithlord

Shaun, I had to go for yellow/clear(also called blue) zinc. Cadmium Norway are now adays strictly for industrial use because of its poisonus carracter. The inbrittlement are no issue, as 99% of the hardware is 8.8 grade steel. This do not apply to internal engine nuts and bolts. Another exeption is the bolts that holds the sliders for the seats, they are 10.9 i think, but I had a factory in the UK make a bunch just like the originals. I can send you enough for the seats of your car if you like(gift). If you look at the parts manual, the workshop manual and/or the head of the bolts it should say what strenght the steel is. Another part I am not 100% sure about is the spring washers(look twisted and are very thin) They sertainly are of higher strenght steel, but mine held up their "springiness" just fine after they where zinc coated. And the spingwashers are not as essencial as there where originaly if you use zinc coated nolock nuts instead of the original non nylock nuts(at those places the springwashers where used, says where they are used in the parts manual).

best
John

John, in terms of yellow hardware, do you know which is factory correct? Yellow zinc or cad plating? The cad stuff I've seen is beautiful, but bright gold.

[zithlord]

Shaun; yellow cad is correct, but its impossible to see the diff. and the anti corrosion effect is much the same.

John

[Jagshund]

Originally Posted by emptyo

I think once this thing is sandblasted and de-rusted, it's going to be a whole new ballgame. I think you should attach a video camera in the corner of your garage, and do stop-motion video for the next few years, so we can speed it up and watch the whole restoration in 5 minutes.

As good an idea as the stop-motion camera is, I think you should consider whether or not you ever tend to use the garage as a . . . ahem . . . changing area before/after working. Not sure what forum rules are regarding nekkedness.

[BReyes]

Good luck.

Good stance. I remember what a 40 year old original looks like and though a newly repaired, refinished example may not have the same patina. it will look good.

Having been restoring cars since able to drive. Any car is restorable. Those of us who have restored cars aproaching fifty years old know it is doable after lots of sandblasting and welding, and lots of paint. Dare I say the motor will awesome too.

Save more 911 guys. Stop parting them out!

Regards,