Oil lines to loop cooler Q

Jk369 · 06-07-2008, 07:22 PM

I am going to remove the loop and add an oil cooler to my SC. What is the "trick" to opening the lines; I have two wrenches but the fitting wont budge. The one wrench is the stamped steel version and if I put too much force on the wrench it spreads.

911pcars · 06-07-2008, 08:27 PM

Two things:

Use a proper wrench. The Porsche oil line wrenches are designed for these fittings, but any quality wrench will work. Sheet metal wrenches, as you are aware, aren't rigid enough.

If you can apply enough leverage under the fender, go for it. However, to minimize distorting any parts, remove the entire oil line assembly. This isn't as daunting as it sounds. There are two ends to remove at the oil tank and engine and some brackets that secure the thermostat and oil lines under the rocker panel and rt. front fender.

Once on the ground, you can apply added leverage; optimize leverage angles, apply needed heat, penetrating oil, etc.

Install the front cooler and lines finger tight, then realign and reinstall before final positioning.

Sherwood

aston@ultrasw.c · aston@ultrasw.c's Garage

I just got my lines apart after a good overnight soak in PB Blaster.

Maybe I just got lucky.

HawgRyder · HawgRyder's Garage

An old mechanics trick is to position the 2 wrenches so that you can grip them with one hand and squeez the two together.
If you do it correctly, the fitting will loosen.
The power in your grip is very strong, and because you are only moving them a little bit, it should break the joint loose and not do a lot of damage to the car or your body.
Luck
Bob

GH85Carrera · GH85Carrera's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by HawgRyder

An old mechanics trick is to position the 2 wrenches so that you can grip them with one hand and squeez the two together.
If you do it correctly, the fitting will loosen.
The power in your grip is very strong, and because you are only moving them a little bit, it should break the joint loose and not do a lot of damage to the car or your body.
Luck
Bob

That is the best way. Get the proper quality tools. Cheap junk tools will just make things near impossible. Position the two wrenches so that you can get your hands around them and squeeze them together. That is the only way I could get mine to budge. Be VERY careful when you reattach the lines. The threads are fairly fine and easy to get cross thread. If it does not spin on with your fingers don't use a wrench to tighten it! It will spin on with your fingers if everything is straight.

Jk369 · 06-09-2008, 05:11 PM

Well I was really hoping to get lucky, no such luck. I was not able to get sufficient leverage and opted to put this off. I will see if I can get time on a lift, if not I will wait till winter as I am driving it as much as possible currently. I think then taking the lines out will be the best bet. I have already disconnected the thermostat from the lines so I know that will go O.K.

Any suggestions on brand of wrenches, I have thoughts of making my own but in low quantity this will not be cost effective.

Chuck Moreland · 06-09-2008, 07:13 PM

First try a good penetrating oil, good wrenches, and plenty of cussing. If it still won't come off, you run the risk of destroying the female threads.

You can cut the side of the tube nut with a dremel tool and cutoff wheel. Try to limit the thread damage, but don't worry about a little nicking because the threads don't make the seal.

If you want to salvage the oil line that the tube nut was cut from, we've got a soon to be released product that let's you replace the cuttoff nut in place. This way you can save the threads and still salvage the oil line.

Basically the product is a two-part tube nut that fits over the oil line end, and then is assembled in place so that it will no longer slip over the oil line end. It can then be used to tighten down the oil line exactly like the original.

rusnak · 06-09-2008, 07:34 PM

I agree with everything posted above. I got my oil lines off with PB Blaster, the special oil line wrenches, and squeezing them together.

My friend who owns a 911 SC was not so lucky, and the threads stripped out of the aluminum thermostat when we removed those lines (different from the ones you mention). So we installed a "thermostat saver" and the special nut that Chuck mentions above (thanks Chuck you are a lifesaver, sir!!!).

I can attest to the fact that the special Chuck nut works if you have to grind off your old nut for any reason. I used a dye grinder to cut off the old nut, which had also become ruined.

911pcars · 06-09-2008, 10:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jk369

Well I was really hoping to get lucky, no such luck. I was not able to get sufficient leverage and opted to put this off. I will see if I can get time on a lift, if not I will wait till winter as I am driving it as much as possible currently. I think then taking the lines out will be the best bet. I have already disconnected the thermostat from the lines so I know that will go O.K.

Any suggestions on brand of wrenches, I have thoughts of making my own but in low quantity this will not be cost effective.

Once the assembly is out in the open, it's easier. As suggested, use two wrenches, Kroil or PB Blaster and heat if necessary. Flare nut (aka tubing) wrenches are usually best for fittings, but you might be hard-pressed to find any in the larger metric sizes. Porsche makes a set of oil line wrenches for this specific purpose, but regular wrenches will work just as well.

Since you've remove the thermostat, you can slide a box wrench (6-point is better) over the open end, then onto the fitting attached to the trombone "cooler". Whatever wrench you use, hold the stationary hex fitting with the wrench handle on the ground and step on it so it doesn't move. Unloosen the tube nut end using a wrench with a 4' length of big-enough plumbing pipe to provide added leverage and better control as you twist this thing beyond recognition.

Sherwood

rusnak · 06-09-2008, 11:02 PM

You need the 36mm wrench. I have the Porsche wrench set, but this one looks better.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/PORS/POR_PORS_PTOOLS_pg8.htm#

If all else fails, you can use a piece of galvanized fence pipe as an extension. It will come loose. Try a few drops of old brake fluid on the threads, and it will come loose. They say to use heat, like mapp gas on the nut, to expand the steel so that it will loosen. I didn't have to do that on mine, but in retrospect it would have been smart to do so.