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TroyGT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: High Point, NC
Posts: 519
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Cam Timing Sanity Check

I think I have read through the posts and the Bentley, both of Wayne's books and have successfully timed my cams. I'd love a quick sanity check from you guys.

My car is within cam spec at 360 degrees past TDC on the left cam. For the right cam, the #1 intake overlap point equates to TDC for the #4 intake and cam orientation (woodruf key) is the same. I installed the dial gauge on the right side and then turned another 360 degrees to check the lift spec. Both are now within spec for my car. No clearance issues.

Left side was done with all intake and exhaust valves in place. Right side was done with only the #4 intake valve installed.

Does this sound right to everyone?

Also, I noticed that at TDC, my rotor does not point exactly to the mark on the dizzy case... it points slightly before the mark... maybe a few millimeters. Should I be timing the against the pulley and the case split or against the dizzy mark and rotor?

Just want to make sure things are right before I button this end up.

Thanks.

-Troy

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1986 911 Coupe (Guards Red), Fabspeed Euro Pre-muffler,
Steve Wong Performance Chip

2001 Boxster 2.7L (Orient Red), bone stock
Old 07-14-2008, 05:38 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Lincoln, NE
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Looks like you have it timed correctly. You time off the pulley marks, not the distributor marks. Remember your spark timing is a few degrees before TDC hence the reason why your rotor is pointing where it is.
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Kurt V
No more Porsches, but a revolving number of motorcycles.
Old 07-14-2008, 06:43 AM
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Thanks alot Kurt! This was my first cam timing project and I've been a little nervous about getting everything right.

How important is the use of something external to tension the cam chains. On my left side, I never removed the chain tension. My tensioners are in great shape, with very little extension at all. Should I re-time them again with the idler sprocket clamped up? I've heard some people say that their measurements were the same clamped and unclamped. And, I'ver heard some say that there can be alot of difference.

Thanks.

-Troy
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1986 911 Coupe (Guards Red), Fabspeed Euro Pre-muffler,
Steve Wong Performance Chip

2001 Boxster 2.7L (Orient Red), bone stock
Old 07-14-2008, 06:51 AM
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mca mca is offline
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I just did my cam timing with the left side idler arm clamped (tensioners not installed) and the right side held tight with a mechanical tool.

After installing the chain tensioners my timing went from 1.23mm to about 1.5mm. I would call that a pretty big difference but that is subjective of course.

I am glad that it advanced though and not the other way around.

The engine has yet to be put in my car, but that was my experience with the timing.
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Old 07-28-2008, 05:19 PM
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one other note. make sure you read the dial correctly. PO did my cams and set them 15 deg. advanced. the spec said to set them at .020. they set them so the dial spun CCW to .020, thay really was .080 of lift.
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86 930 94kmiles [__] RUNNING:[__] NOT RUNNING: ____77 911S widebody: SOLD
88 BMW 325is 200K+ SOLD
03 BMW 330CI 220K:: [__] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:
01 suburban 330K:: [__] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:
RACE CAR:: sold
Old 07-29-2008, 04:06 AM
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oh, needless to say, i got the car for $4500 with 80k miles. it idled and drove ok, just could not floor it or it got spark knock so i new the motor was fine.

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86 930 94kmiles [__] RUNNING:[__] NOT RUNNING: ____77 911S widebody: SOLD
88 BMW 325is 200K+ SOLD
03 BMW 330CI 220K:: [__] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:
01 suburban 330K:: [__] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:
RACE CAR:: sold
Old 07-29-2008, 04:08 AM
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