best way to get to this to replace?
 

The ball part of the ball/socket joint on the lever arm under the throttle body came loose and that section of linkage was lost.
What's the best way to access this to replace the lever arm?

Well, let's see...you start by removing the Frammis Drive, then you have to disconnect the Thermodiscular valve, after which...

What Peter is trying to say is it would help if we knew more about the car.... year, modifications, etc.

A picture would help also.

OK, OK, I guess I need to do better at 'splaining:

this gizmo busted on my '87 Cab; here's the history:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1217974056.jpg

note the excellent temporary craftsmanship what kept me going.............

the hooha with the coathanger in it used to have a ball mounted in that hole, and was part of a ball&socket piece of the throttle linkage. It is stuffed towards the firewall and is under the throttle body.

It seems like you can't get there from here.
Anybody know the best way to get at the piece (shaft and lever) to replace it?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...leys/pint1.gif

You can buy the parts here, it's part of the bell crank. http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/PEL_search.cgi?command=show_part_page&please_wait= N&make=POR&model=911M&section=Pcable&page=5&bookma rk=11&part_number=911-423-017-02-OEM

I hate to say it John, but it's not too easy. I tried to fiddle with it in my car and finally waited until I did an engine drop. And my car has nothing in the way.

You could try by taking off the throttle body and see where that gets you. Be careful not to drop anything down the intake, please.

What year is your car, there seems to be a bunch of parts missing! I'm not quite sure what I'm seeing, but the other end of the shaft has a nut on it - undo that and pull the shaft out (or just remove the base (3x 8mm nuts) and fix it on the bench). I've seen carb kits that come with balls that are mounted on a small, threaded post, but I don't know if one of those would work for this application. Probably best to order a replacement shaft/linkage parts from the dealer.

FYI: My earlier smart-ass post was a tongue in cheek because the text of your post simply said "xx" with a "last edited" note - sorry!

Yeah, what he said.

I already have the parts; just gotta put them on. Not to worry re: xx--I was trying to get the pic added.........................

looks like to next move is take off the throttle body. Will it screw up the micro switch adjustments by taking it loose?
jd

got it off...............
 

the baseplate hooha is called the throttle console. It did not want to be removed,
but it's off. getting it out of the engine was also fun.
it's all downhill now!:rolleyes:

Glad to hear it worked out - on some cars, it's more difficult than others.

-Wayne

Root cause? Now, to put Humpty Dumpty Back......................
 

OK, here's what I found:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1218033457.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1218033490.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1218033524.jpg

Looks bent.
What could have caused this? Apparently enough force to pull the peened ball out of its hole.........
could it have been that big roll of duct tape stuck to the bottom?

root cause analysis................
 

Ask "WHY?" to each answer at least 4 times....................
car stopped.
why?
linkage came loose.
why?
part broken.
why?
ball came off.
why?
came loose/bent in housing/pulled off.
why?
closer look at busted part and it's replacement..........looks like a rivet joint/thought it was peened....... get this; replacement was also loose and spins in it's hole! tried peening, iffy; didn't hold solid (made to spin?) not likely;
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1218036528.jpg

• Kraut thought process; "this is the way we've always done it."
• passed test process.
• weakened over time.
• process hardened. (constant motion back and forth).
• loosened over time.

Ockham's Razor--simplest explanation most likely.
works loose over time.

what's the fix?

• make it unable to come loose over time.
• adjust linkage so full deflection of pedal will not put "bending" torque on lever

how?

• weld or braise the somebench, then anneal it to lessen brittleness.
• correctly adjust throttle linkage

I'm off to the local welder..................

Lessons?

• make sure throttle linkage is correctly adjusted (still could happen due to constant back/forth) causing part to work loose
• Is there possibly a bolt-on replacement for the ball using a tight-grip bolt? The ball could be replaced (though with some difficultly) with much less effort than having to remove the whole base and pivot arm.

.......................a prodigious panoply of pernicious possibilities and permutations..........I'm going to drink a Guinness http://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...leys/pint1.gif

Brorag,
After several "heading to local welders", I searched and decide to get a small welding machine. Very worthy and convenience.

:D :D :D I was thinking what are all these parts. :lol:

Borag,

Mine does not spin and is not loose at all... I think you gots another bum part.

Also, while you're in there, replace the throttle plate bushings. Mine crumbled in my hands. Cheap too. 901-423-253-00-M260 in the pp catalog.

Best regards,

Michael

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

minimum job cost to weld--$25
bushings ordered--got bronze--another week ~$10
replacement could have been twisted--done on engine removal? Doesn't matter: I've got a $25 weld holding it!
Hot here--and I could be up on the Blue Ridge Parkway--15 mi away.
More Guinnesshttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...leys/pint1.gif

I wonder if that big clod-hopper you call a right foot had anything to do with this?

Heavy foot shouldn't matter. Throttle pedal stop (the plastic tab on the back of the gas pedal)prevents you from over-stressing the throttle linkage- assuming your linkage is properly adjusted!

The bellcrank could have been bent by a previous hack like me. I had a heck of a time getting the throttle rod socket to release from the ball on a number of cars. Sometimes the socket gets so full of crud that the ball doesn't want to come out. And I don't think the brass bushings for the shaft are a must-have. The plastic ones wear out in 20 years. Put some new plastic ones in there and i'm sure they'll last 20 more?

I do wear a size 15...........................
Pelican had the bronze bushings for about the same $$

Just my 2-cents worth; I do not use, or recommend, bronze bushings - there's a reason why Porsche never switched to them, and the reason ain't money!

That said, before you assemble the linkage to the ball put a thin smear of high-quality grease (I like Kendall lithium grease, or amber disc brake wheel bearing grease the best) inside the ball cup - that way you'll be able to disconnect it the next time that things have to be removed.

Oh, the loose ball, that's very unusual - definitely got past quality control during a bathroom break!