Petrol tank cleaning...

This is how it looked earlier in the year, before welding the filler tube and neck in place. Cutting off the original filler neck gives a good view of what is going on inside, RUSTY...

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...P1030403-1.jpg

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...P1030402-1.jpg

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...1/P1060733.jpg

Before the cleaning process starts, some prep work is required. Very important to seal off the tank, to stop nasty chemicals from spilling out...

Fuel sender...rubber and acrylic cap
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...1/P1060725.jpg

Filler neck...rubber and formed (whacked with a hammer) metal
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...1/P1060726.jpg

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...1/P1060727.jpg

Breather pipe and outlet...PVC pipe melted to form a seal
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...1/P1060729.jpg

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...1/P1060731.jpg

Drainage outlet...PVC pipe and removable brake line clamp (to allow controlled drainage)
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...1/P1060734.jpg

Plug...don't have a 22mm socket? M14 nut and bolt combo
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...1/P1060730.jpg

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...1/P1060738.jpg

This is when it gets interesting. Taking advice from a Mechanical engineering student, its a long story :)
I decided to use some domestic drain cleaner first to clean out the tank (3 bottles used)...

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...1/P1060737.jpg

Alot of shaking and tank spinning later the contents can be disposed of and then flushed out...
pretty clean...
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...1/P1060742.jpg

Next step...5 litres of Phosphoric acid..... :rolleyes:
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...1/P1060744.jpg

More shaking and tank spinning
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...1/P1060745.jpg

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...1/photo3-1.jpg

Flushed again...and repeat the shaking and spinning process with stronger 85% Phosphoric acid :rolleyes:

Though the results are great...
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...01/photo-4.jpg

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...1/photo1-1.jpg

Flushed again and add 'Spiritus' alcohol cleaner to dry it out...
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...1/P1060737.jpg

make sure its completely dry, then use POR 15 tank sealer.

Chris

Outstanding! I did something similar, but in a much smaller scale, with a motorcycle tank... I hope you had help shaking that tank!!

Fully dry, re-sealed and POR 15 Tank sealer added. I actually used 1 and half tins, and did the process in my previously mentioned engineering student friends garage. His (Stefan) engine lift/winch proved useful, as did his airline supply which was invaluable for making sure all the internal lines and tubes were clear during coating.

POR 15 added and rotated multiple times for 30 mins, then drained (through the breather as the original inlet is removed and blanked off), and I was amazed how much came out.....The engine lift/winch worked great to support the tank during draining, as did the crank from Stefan's 1938 Opel Olympia restoration:)

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...1/P1070264.jpg

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...1/P1070262.jpg


End results are great, it has been drying for a week now and the POR 15 is rock solid.

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...01/photo-5.jpg

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...1/photo1-2.jpg

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...1/photo2-2.jpg


But some words of wisdom when using POR 15...

WEAR GLOVES AND LONG SLEEVES...DO NOT GET IN ON YOUR SKIN


Chris

Still have the eye on the goal...

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...LAWCOLOURS.jpg


Chris

AMAZING, great on you and thanks for the updates.
Looking forward to your first drive.
Mike

my favourite project!

What size tires on on the 944 spares?

Tyre size is:

195/50 r 16 Continental Sport Contact 2


Chris

Nope, still feeling the burn :(


Chris

Hi Chris,

You've done a fantastic job, full respect to your design and execution skills.

I also have a job that moves me around and am just starting another 'outlaw' project. Its possible I'll be posted in Germany next, within a year or two. I have heard nighmares about the TUV process, and this is in my mind now as I figure out how to end up with a car I can get registered. I had that problem in Australia.

Do you anticipate any problems getting it through TUV? How does that work?

John

John I can tell you from experience that the German TÜV can be a royal pain in the A##.
With a car like an Outlaw thats based on an actual existing car model the problems are chiefly centered around mechanical additions are alterations carried out. You will often hear of the expression TÜV approved. This means that parts added which are TÜV approved will have accompanying documentation to certify the legality of their intended use. If for example you change the exhaust used from that on the standard model then the Sports exhaust will have to be TÜV approved and will have to be entered on the cars paperwork as a change. The rest is down to safety regulations such as brakes lighting etc. So long as the car fulfills the safety regulations you have to be more worried about additions to the project than what you have taken off. Once you have supporting docs for the additions thenn its all a question of being prepared before you go to the TUV

Does anyone have experience with TUV approval of body panels, gutting doors and changing engines, even if its the same model? The Candian authorities told me they only care its the same engine configuration and of at least a later year of motor. No backdating motors.

I'm thinking about what TUV considerations there are for changing body panels (76 to 73) gutting doors, replacing glass with Makrolan and installing a non-original motor (same displacement) but with EFI ITBs. And a rollcage. And GTS Seats.

Is there an "antique" exception?

John

John there is no antique exception. Glass is a safety product so if you change it and the manufacturer hasn´t submitted it in Germany for TUV approval then you may have problems getting the car registered. Also any car in Germany that is regarded as an Oldtimer and comes with advantages like cheaper Insurance and negligible car tax needs a so called "H" plate. To get a so called "H" oldtimer plate the car will have to be virtually original with some minor exceptions allowed. Changing Body Panels to make a 76 into a 73 could cause problems but you might get lucky. Adding a roll cage is no problem but changing the seats while not a problem with the TUV as long as they are TUV approved could negate any chance of getting an Oldtimer plate and the associated cost savings which are between 700 to 1300 USD on an old 911 a year

In preperation of installing the engine I decided to turn the car around ( its much warmer with the garage door shut )

This of course meant dropping it back on its wheels and wheeling it out...it also gave the opportunity to take afew pictures...

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...1/photo2-3.jpg


Spot the obvious continuity error...:rolleyes:
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...1/IMG_0889.jpg


http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...1/IMG_0899.jpg


http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...1/IMG_0891.jpg


http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...1/IMG_0895.jpg


http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...1/P1070608.jpg


http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...1/P1070613.jpg


Really need to get it finished now, because it is a pretty little thing.....
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...1/P1070617.jpg


http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...roundel2-1.jpg


Chris

Inspiring Chris - glad to see it is still in progress and you have made some good progress!

Looks awesome Chris - I especially love the grey wheels

;)

PM sent about door strap.
Jack