Very well done, enjoying it all. Best of luck with rest of the project!

Looks great!! Keep up the good work.

Chris, your car is really taking shape. Going to be a killer. I wasn't sure at first about the leather straps, but think it is going to be killer in the end. One suggestion if you have not already thought of it: fab up a mount for your rear plate that moves it off the body a half inch or so, that way the strap can just slide under it.

Since incredible skills are on display here...

how about moving the turn signal lights, from their side location, to inboard the air vent? The original "R" turn signal light location looks so tacked on. Combining the two together would be a subtle difference and might make the nose/light design look a little smoother?

Regardless, amazing work!

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Great job! Enjoying your posts.

And to think, they USED to say, "Give an Englishman a piece of sheetmetal and he's bound to do something stupid with it!"

I think the reason they are positioned where they are is that is that the signal lights have to be visible from the side of the car as well as the front.

Great work!!! Subbed.

Yep, I positioned the indicator lights in the vent holes at an earlier stage, and it does look cleaner (also thought of using 356 lights and using the running light as the indicator). However the legalities mean they should stay where they currently are, and I don't mind them there :)...


Thanks
Chris

On it ;)
I have some nylon spacers that will offset the plate about 12mm...

Thanks
Chris

Procrastination over...let the painting process begin.....

I came across this painting method in the U.S and have seen it first hand. The results are amazing all things considered and there are a number of reasons for doing it. The method involves, amongst other things, a high density foam roller, a tin of 'Rustoleum' paint and thinners and some patience, basically I am painting the car with a roller (but I have cheated and used some rattle cans also). The main reason for doing this honestly comes down to cost, so far it comes to about $50, I like the idea of investing the money saved into the suspension (which is already all poly bronze) and Engine etc. The colour palette is abit limited but the RAL 7001 available is perfect for me (the wheels have been powder coated to match). In hindsight the car will probably never really be "completed", so I am willing to give this a try. I'd hate to spend thousands on a paint job only to re-weld or re-modify something further down the line. As long as the paint is solid I am fine, and first impressions look great...

First coat coat went on last night, I wanted to get 2 solid coats on as a good base to sand back. I left it over night and this morning wheeled it out to see the results.....so far so good...

The basic tools...

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Some nice reflections and highlights already...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1253300746.jpg

2 coats down, roughly another 8 (and abit of sanding:rolleyes:) to go.....

Thanks
Chris

Finally, someone will try this painting method. I am really curious how this turns out. I know someone that did this to his DD motorcycle and the results were amazing.

Take your time and let it level at each coat. This will reduce the soreness of arms when sanding.

Which Rustoleum product did you choose?

<<< I like the Stella Artois touch. :p

Seriously, what an incredible project. My place is on the way to Spa and The Ring when coming from the UK. Make sure to make a stop. ;)

No bloody idea how I missed this for so long, but it's the coolest thread since Nielsen's last. Great work (UK) Chris!

I am also digging the flat six install suggestions. But it will kick ass whatever you do ;)

Vry cool and excellent work - sub'd

Chirs...Can you tell me more about the wheels you are using...?
Great looking project!
Craig

Two other things.

1: Pain in the ass that you had to leave the Lincoln behind!
2: I think the leather might deteriorate quickly with the muffler heat and then wet/dry. A plan B or carrying a spare strap might be worthwhile.

Looks good but you should really consider doing a proper base coat/clear coat paint job. Heres what I would do if you were on a tight budget and I have done it and it turns out looking like a high end paint job if you do A LOT of detail and only gets better if you use better materials .

1- 1 gallon of high build primer $50-80. Block sand using a 3M guide coat
2- rent a paint booth or give a few $$ to a near by body shop for using there booth. $50-100
3- buy 2 quarts of economy base coat+ reducer -$50-100
4- buy 1 gallon of economy clear coat $80-130
5- paint car in rented paint booth

I really hope you do a proper paint job and change your mind about the roller job.... the car is just to nice for a roller paint job..... maybe a beater 4x4 that will only get used it the bush.

Good luck either way.

Im a big fan of rustoleum I have some cast iron bits in the garden that I painted 15 years ago and not even a hint of rust showing,it also dries very very hard
Ive used it under my wheel arches not sure id be brave enough on a car but best of luck to you great job :)

Looks great Chris, from David here in Portland. I'm the guy that boughts Chris's Lincoln welder by the way.

I like the rustoleum idea, why not, I hope to try it on a vintage racer someday. I think safety orange will look nice.

Chris - Cannot believe I have missed this project until today.

Like the outlaw theme, paint method certainly reflects that!! Keep up the good work.

Here, here! I give you MUCH credit for giving this method a go. I too am very interested to see how it turns out. I've read about this in other forums and seen pics that look great . I know it's certainly not traditional and most people dismiss it immediately as a waste of time and energy. Hope it works for you.

Amazing progress, seriously! Inspirational!

On the "roller paint" you can cut and polish and get amazing results, btdt

Cut (wet sand) with 1500, followed (depending on the hardness) with 2000 grit & polish with a machine, carefully.... Bet it will look great!

We used to do this with all our custom motorcycle parts before using conventional methods (base/clear, HVLP, paint booth etc)

A move across the pond, new babies (let alone twins), a career, wifey AND time to do all this? :eek: :eek:

DANG!!! :D

Keep up the great work & thanks for the documentation!

Great thread! Keep up the good work.

I can't wait to see the paint results. I've done this with my garage walls and the painting is easy and flows well when thinned out. Tough as nails too!

i use alot of rustoleum on my cars and panted my boat tralier and car trailer the same way. it turns out great! but never thougt of doing a car you would have to bear metal it agen to change it to any thing else. but a cheep way to do a track/ DE car you could bend up now and agen or make changes touch up would be a verry easy allso. Hmmm i am building a rsr stile track/de car and may just do that my self good idea

It's just another way of getting the paint on the car. But it is extremely labor intensive. When it's done, the painters forearms are double their original size! Lots of wet sanding, buffing, etc. If done well, it can be a quality job. But it aint the easy way.

Decided to pursue with the roller painting method. I realise it has raised some concerns, but I am willing to see it through and if it goes pear shaped I've only got myself to blame... The whole car is a learning process to me, I like the idea of it being in constant development (but eventually running). So far the paint is looking ok, and is pretty "bullet proof". First few coats on (3 so far) and I can certainly feel the wet and dry process in my arms but the results are looking good, especially on the fibreglass... The general plan is to go with 7 coats, coverage is looking good so I figure 600 grit wet and dry after coats 4 and 5, 800 wet and dry after coat 6 and 1500 wet and dry after coat 7. Then a fair bit of polishing!

It at least sounds good in theory...



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Thanks
Chris

Surface finish looks pretty smooth to me. Love the last picture - you can see the individual bulbs through the Fluorescent light diffuser and on a curved surface.

Anticipation...

Well, I love it.

I am certainly interested as I thought of this paint method for my 914. Great project!!

looking good, VERY interested in the process. cheers

[QUOTE=jury;4345938]Parcel shelf in...

I was going to buy a bead roller but preferred the look of circles as opposed to lines/ridges. So after trial fitting the two panels and messing around with a home made stamp with little/no success I decided to cut the holes and back them with some thinner 22 gauge sheet metal using some JB weld (metal epoxy) and spot welds. This will give the desired look and also create the necessary rigidity.


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Spot welded in place and then re-made the upright supports between shelf and window.





Sorry I'm 10 months late on this comment, but it might help someone else do this same project. With a flat plate of sheet metal like that, you can use dimple dies to flare the holes, and it will radically increase the torsional strength of the panel without adding any extra material.

Photos of dimple dies in action.



A source for dimple dies.

Anyway, nice build and nice to see someone take on such a project. Good luck.

any new updates, or did you pass out from sanding!? ;-)

Hats off! It's looking great.

I painted my Bronco II with the Rustoleum and fine finish roller. It worked really well. But alas my son sent it away to the south side of town.

No fears ever for painting a solid color Porsche. Something like a 914 would be superb.

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Up to 1500 grit now. The whole car has been sanded with it once, there are afew areas to go over again and the bonnet/decklid needs another coat of paint. Next step is afew days of polishing, but will probably leave the paint to cure fully before waxing. The problem is is that some areas are perfect, so it only highlights the areas with abit more orange peel...but for the basic materials and using a 4 inch roller its totally acceptable in my book...

The panels still need to be fitted properly so there a some irregular gaps...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1256236468.jpg

The areas around the decklid hinges have been polished and waxed for fitting...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1256236564.jpg

and I did a small test part of hand polishing on the wing. Nice reflection and even got rid of a small fly that decided to settle on the paint overnight.....I'm thinking this might just work.

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I'm moving to Germany next week so this may be it for awhile, but the place we've found to live has a double garage and a sizeable basement so should be able to crack on over the winter months...

Made in Germany 1968...resurrected in USA 2007...realised in UK 2009...completed in Germany 2010ish and the circle is complete.....

Thanks
Chris

Well, thanks a lot for moving in the middle of a great project!!!:rolleyes::p

Nice work. Love the side shot of that thing and digging the grey. I really like the subtle touch of the wheels and grille, how they tie in together because of the holes. Not sure if that was planned, but brilliant if it was! I wonder what the wheels and grille would like in another color, like black... OR, if you are brave, what about the wheels, grille, and an over-the top deck stripe in some other color - I think orange would look killer with grey. Just an idea... maybe on of the site photoshop guys could give you some ideas on that.

So, from someone who is nearly dead from a large hardwood floor install, how are your arms holding up from the sanding? How much sanding has actually been required?

Good luck with the move!

Thanks Shane, hate to admit it but yeah the hole graphic was planned, and I haven't finished with the hole saw yet;)

The plan is to have the middle panel of the seats trimmed in a orange tarten so there will be an orange colour hit. I also have a set of 6x15 Fuchs which I plan to get powder coated in signal orange (or maybe turqouise if the seats remain all-black)...The decklid cover is going to be clear acrylic so I am going to do the engine fan cover in signal orange also....details details details:)

The sanding isn't 'that' bad, just tedious! The pain is the edges, its really easy to burn through and you have to touch up and re-sand. The first few sands were done with 400 and 600 grit. I wrapped the paper around a sponge sanding pad which allows the paper to flow over the contours of the body. I think you could also use a piece of 10-15mm rubber which will probably allow the paper to cut the paint abit better.

In all honesty its not perfect.....but all things considered, its not far off!

Thanks
Chris

Wow!! Sub'd

Very impressive results, I am wondering if you used any type of hardener with the rustoleum. I have read on a few other forums that enamuel harder was used to speed up the curing process before wetsanding