I don't see things that way.
I'm building a very similar street legal / track 76 Carrera 3.0 myself.
My car will never be in original condition again but I don't care. It's not an investment.
If it's performing better than new at the track, (or at least better than when I got it) it's what matters.
Build the car you want and have fun. They were built to be driven.
Would you run from a lightweight 2.7RS because it was modified for the track ?

What are your plans in the long term ?
Are you heading to the US for a short expat or longer ?
Federalizing a C3 may not be easy, especially in its current condition ;)
On the other hand, it seems like it may be cheaper to ship it and have it done in the US.
Even if it's not federalized, you may be able to trailer it to the track ?

-Guillaume

Don't get me wrong, I am not not saying that modifying a car is "not right", and to me it makes absolute sense to have as much fun as possible with our cars, be them Porsche or anything. I am just passing on some information that I think may be of interest to all C3 owners and this information is that in Europe the value for original C3 is increasing. Here (I live in Paris, France) a nice C3 is worth much more than a SC or a nice G50 3.2l. So we see more and more C3 being restored to original condition.

Need more feedback
 

Hi Guys

You are both presenting valid points.

I will modify my car to my desires, but none of the modifications will be irreversible. Everything will be bolt-on, just in case some day I would want to put it back to stock config.

None of the original parts will be sold.

thanks for the input please keep it coming. I have a choice to make.

Jesper

suspension disassembly - help needed
 

While i wonder in which direction to go, I have started to prepare various parts for renovation.

I am trying to disassemble the front suspension. I can't get the rubber bushings off. I have read about heating them with a propane torch, is this the right way to do it? If yes then I need to go and get myself a torch.

On of the struts seems to have seized onto the lower attachment point (can't remember the correct term for the bearing below the rubber bellow). I would like to think I went back in and ask for advice just short of being stupid -brute force kind off stupid...
Any suggestions?

Thanks

Jesper

Jesper, just got your PM. For some reason had not gotten the last one. Sorry.

Yes, use a propane torch and heat the bushing housings until they start to melt and smoke just slightly. You can then stick a screwdriver in the eyelets of the housing, and rotate the bushing housing in a twisting motion and they will come right off.

What replacement bushings are u planning on using?

Regarding removing the strut, are u referring to removing the strut from the ball-joint, or the strut from the housing itself?

Hi

thanks for the reply.

I have now seen the ER video on Youtube. So propane torch it is.

Regarding the bushings, well. I want to get the ultimate in ride quality. By ride quality I don't mean as in comfort, but as in handling .just short of tasting blood :-)

Ball-joint, that's the term I couldn't remember. The ball-joint has seized completely on one of the struts. The wedge shaped bolt has been removed, but the strut itself wont budge.

I just started to dissassemble the drive shafts in order to get the rear wheel bearing etc. off the traling arm, which I am having beadblasted. Do I want to have these coated in some way?


Jesper
Jesper

Actually, it's old enough that it doesn't have to meet EPA or DOT standards. It can be imported as-is and all he'll have to do is pay the customs duty.

JR

The ball joints are always a ***** to get off the a-arm. Your need to use a ball joint socket that looks like this
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1259681773.jpg
and the biggest impact driver that you have. Heating the surrounding a-arm sometimes helps.

To get the ball joint pin out of the bottom of the strut use LOTs of heat with that same propane torch to heat up the lower part of the strut... i was able to easily 'pop' the wedge pin out, followed by the ball joint pin after heating
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1259682139.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1259682170.jpg

After a few minutes of whacking the ball joint with a separator, victory will be yours. Have a beer and survey all your destruction
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1259682333.jpg

import duty
 

Hi

I like what you are saying. It would be terrible not being able to drive it.
I'll try to dig into to the import rules, what to pay. Special rules might aply since I'm DoD exchange so to speak :-)

I just bought a propane torch and a dremel, so once I get a chance I'll have a go at it again.

Thanks

Jesper

What are the regulation for driving a Euro registered car in the U.S??? Would Jesper be able to as long as it's insured?

BTW, PM sent Jesper

got the beer...
 

Thanks again.

Well now I've got the torch, and I just bought some very expensive French X-mas beer. So once She starts singing it's beer time... :)
I've seen on another thread that somebody used a dremel tool. Bought one of those. The castellated type nut, on the lower A-arms, are very old and ugly, so if I can't get it off. I'm going to split it with the dremel.

If I run out of beer i guess I'll bring out the hammer and separator.

I'll report once I've had some time ind the garage.

Jesper

progress report and some questions.
 

Hi

I follow the recommended procedures, and the A arms are now completely disassembled -well, except for one off the TB. T simply cannot get it out. I didn't like the idea of drilling a hole in the original A-arm as Wayne recommends, but today I did it anyway. The TB still wont budge.

What do I do?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1262467521.jpg

As you can see the front suspension is apart. I am now debating what kind of bushings to use
I know this has been a huge topic in the past, so first hand advice is greatly appreciated...

Furthermore I am considering how to finsh the A-arms themselves. I have three choices:
1. Aircraft undercarriage epoxy coating It is indestructible (they say), but greyish brown.
2. POR 15 treatment.
3. powdercoat (PC). Some of my very experienced Tech colleages don't like PC they say it is more a glacing (wording) that a coating. which can hide rust after years of use...

option 2 is cheap for me, but not OEM looking. Number 2 is OK I guess, but it takes precious time and the finish isn't top notch.
option 3 is widely used by pelicans. It is easy for me ( just drop off and pick-up) But is PC the right solution.

What would you do?

Today I had an hour in the garage. So I decided to prepare some more of the bits and pieces.

I took apart and cleaned one of the drive shafts and the CV joints. They are the original ones. Check pictures below.
I have had no proplems i.e. funny sounds or anything, not on the road or on track. My questions here is on how to rebuild these. I am aware, that there are threads on this, but how far would you go?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1262468279.jpg

I made a small cleaning tank and used a product called ARDOX after cleaning and drying the parts I sprayed them with WD-40. Now they are awaiting being rebuild.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1262468475.jpg

Well my time ran out, but before I went back in I needed a Boost. So I decided to do a non-construtive, but amusing puzzle.
I know it isn't much and You have seen the theme before, but this'll give you an idea of my desired end-state.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1262468674.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1262468819.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1262468964.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1262469101.jpg

I have colleced the various parts over the years.

The Doors is from Ebay.de
The hood is from better bodies. It will be replaced with a Getty CF some day.
The doors are Getty, CF and fantastic.

Looking forward to some comments and advice.

Jesper

Maybe there are some ways to bring a street legal RoW car that I don't know about but when I brought my '76 C3 over I received a waiver for EPA mods( at that time the law allowed a 1 time per individual lifetime EPA exemption) but all the DoT mods had to be done.

The car was brought in at the Port of Albany and given a 90 day permit from Dot so that it could be trucked to a licensed shop in Boston where the requiste DoT mods were done and inspected by DoT reps.

When the car was finally released from impound besides the ownership docs I also received a DoT release and an EPA waiver and was told to keep all these docs on file or to g w/ the car if it was ever sold.

Later when I was shopping for a 993RS the law had changed so that special models could be brought in again w/ only DoT work being necessary. The DoT had a list of what it considered special, the 993RS was on their list but I don't know what others may have been there as well.

Car looks like a nice project, Unless it's a track only car I'd want rubber bushes. But the poly bronze may be ok too, no experience of them. What I'd never use on a street car are the p/u versions

In case it may benefit you, here is my testimony.

My car is used for weekend canyon road driving. The twisty roads are similar to autocrosses. I will be using rubber bushings on the A-arm and a monoball for the top strut mount. In the rear I have monoball control arm bearings and rubber spring plate bushings.

The Elephant Racing rubber bushings fit like the factory pieces, do not squeak, and are maintainance free. They are also cheaper than the PolyBronze.
The Poly-Bronze must be lubricated regularly using the various grease fittings. I did not want this hassle nor did I want to deal with the consequences of getting behind in the lubrication. The cost finally sealed the decision for me.

DO NOT use the simple urethane or polygraphite bushings. They will squeak so much as to drive you mad. Their uncontrolled slipping friction also makes for a harsher ride. I speak from experience. After installing the rear monoballs, the squeaks are gone and the rear feels better over bumps and seems to handle the curves with more stability. The car just feels more controlable- I can lift-throttle-steer the car to rotate or I can keep the rear in line as I wish.

Happy New Year. Your car looks like a fun project. I really like those carbon doors. SmileWavy

I'm guessing that it has been a number of years since you imported your C3. I remember that the once-in-a-lifetime EPA waiver was a while back. Back then, your car would have been less than 25 years old, right?

The way it works is that a car over 25 years old doesn't have to meet either DOT or EPA regulations. Actually, for once of those agencies it's 23 years, and the other 25, but I never can remember which is which. Anyway, anythings older than 1984 can be imported without a hassle. In Canada, the same thing applies after 15 years.

JR

you learn something new every day

here's a link to the NHTSA importation rules

Hi guys

thanks for the information. My stay in the US will be approx. 4 years. I don't know whether I have to pay import taxes, since I will be takinmg the car back with me to DK.

I really need advice on the TB that's stuck in the A-arm. Is it an option to heat the A-arm and hope for it to expand thus braking loose from the TB, or will this weaken the A-arm?

thanks again

Jesper

progress, sort of...
 

Hi

Guys

The TB finally gave up. I soaked it in a 50/50 mix of acetone and auto-trans fluid (read about on the board). Don't know what did the trick, but off it went.

It looks as if I might get a couple of hours in the garage on Thursday.
I am in the process of building a nerf bar. Now I need to decide on what oil cooler to buy.
I read quite a bit about it.
So far I am set on this:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1266956626.jpg

text from dealer on-line shop:
"Setrab oil cooler are made in aluminum. The cooler have high cooling effects and Maximum working pressure is 10 bar. This cooler have 15 row. Complete length: 405 mm. Complete depth: 50 mm. Complete height: 120 mm. Internally thread: M22"

What do you think about my choice?

What will I need as a minimum to connect the cooler to my existing hard-lines?

I am still debating whether to fit steel braided hoses instead of the original hard lines. What would you do?

Thanks

Jesper