Yet Another Boring Rgruppe Car – Part II, Suspension

[kenikh]

I can buy it at the local paint supply store, right down the street from work (Wesco). Lemme know if you need a hand.

[RWebb]

Thanks. Maybe I'll start a "spot" rust treatment thread...

[RWebb]

BTW - this is what the pedal cluster looked like before - hard to see anything wrong with it...

[J P Stein]

For stuff like that I use Rust Mort then a coat of etch primer, RM makes a good one (both from an auto paint store), topcoat of your choice.
I would not use Por15 on a wheelbarrow.

[al lkosmal]

I wire brushed mine and applied POR-15. Worked very well.

[egertk]

I've got my POR-15 and metal ready before through NAPA. Might check them out.

[RWebb]

Thx - I finally found some - $42/Qt. No thanks to that. I am using a Rustoleum primer and paint. That should last 30 years, at which point it is someone else's problem...

[mjshira]

I've found it at PepBoy's before.

Great thread, now, I thought only young guys 'street raced'? ;-)

[RWebb]

oh no - don't get the wrong idea - I obey all speed limits and traffic laws at every moment.

[mjshira]

What would Shultz say? 'I know NOTHING'!

[burgermeister]

Our local independent auto parts store has a competitor's product (forgot what it's called) in 4 or 8 oz wee cans for $10. Perfect for such jobs, since the whole can has a tendency to turn into a solid glob of hardened goo once it's been opened....

[RWebb]

OK, any thoughts on why somebody would weld this thing on there?

[DW SD]

WOW, I'd just try to source a nice clean one, rather than fixing that thing.

Looks like someone welded a stop on there, but it is just speculation. Or maybe it was for the brake switch?

Doug

[Zeke]

Originally Posted by RWebb

OK, any thoughts on why somebody would weld this thing on there?

The person who did that might have thought it was a way too adjust the brake pedal lower for heel and toe. Instead, it looks to me like he was reducing overall pedal travel. That could have had some serious ramifications under stress.

[RWebb]

Pedal Cluster – Major Parts

info from Pelican catalog
no shaft listed for ‘73
911-423-027-01 - Pedal Shaft, 1974
911-423-027-03 – “ 1975
911-423-027-04 – “ 1976
930-423-027-01 -- “ 1977-86

from PET pgm version () =part ID. – for ??
(21) 911-423-219-03 – spacer
(22) 911-423-065-02 - bearing bracket (bottom “cup”) –
(25) 901-423-250-02 – reverse lever, front (has 3 connections on it)
(28) 901-423-035-00 – bearing tube
(33) 911-423-027-01 – clutch pedal shaft (1972-on)
(35) 901-423-312-00 – clutch pedal, lower part
(40) 901-423-053-02 – brake pedal
(42) 901-423-531-00 – return spring
(43) 901-423-507-02 – intermediate piece

TRE says - Clutch actuation shaft is different between a 70-71 and 72-75; otherwise all is same

[RWebb]

36 parts on this diagram

[RWebb]

Take a look at the roll pin and the rusty bottom of the pedal cluster cup. NONE of this could be seen in situ. I had gotten down in the footwell with a flashlight after taking the floorboard out to inspect it and could not see any of this.

[RWebb]

Note that these brake hoses are not well sealed - this is something else one should check periodically.

[RWebb]

The best way to check is to put a trouble light up under the F suspension pan. (I did this while rebuilding the F susp., which is why the pedal cluster stuff is oddly in this thread & not the interior thread). Then darken the footwell area and the light leaks show your water leak areas. Note the circled area and compare with the last pic.

[RWebb]

Here is a pic of what the apparently nice & clean footwell area looked like after I removed the pedal cluster.




So, folks, be SURE to remove the pedal cluster every few years and check it out -- inspection with the piece in situ is not adequate.

Here is a pic of one unfortunate person's pedal cluster area:



Don't let that happen to you. Pull it out and check.

I treated mine with rust reducer and then with a Rustoleum primer on top of that.



Then I put a top coat of black paint over that.