how to remove exhaust studs

[alniki]

Chris (A Quiet Boom) mentioned in his thread that the drilling with his tool can be done more easily from under the car without dropping the engine,
"Don't have to worry about this when doing it with the engine in the car. It's also easier to push up on a drill from under the car than it is to push down with the engine on a stand."

I presume you guys all dropped the engine to do the job otherwise how PB Blaster can penetrate well against gravity? Chris also suggested using lots of oil while drilling, I've been wondering how the oil can be efficiently applied when drilling from under the engine?

[Rusty 356]

If you break a stud then you need to get the old piece out. I bought a jig years ago from Gerhart Assenmacher that uses one stud and centering screws into the port to locate the CL on the stud then drill and tap as needed. Still have the tool. I think he made the tool for those mid seventy 2.7 engines.

[Gunter]

alniki:

PB Blaster, or any other penetrating oil, is a "creeper", it moves against gravity.
That's why WD-40 doesn't work.

When drilling from underneath, you cool and lube the drill by spraying into the hole (And the drill) now and then.
Get some penetrating oil in a spray can that supplies the little red straw-nozzle.
Put the little red nozzle into the push button of the can.

You have to keep the drill motor as straight as possible aligned to the hole/stud. Drill jig is a must to keep the drill from wandering off!
If the car is on a hoist, use your shoulder to push up.
If the car is on the ground just on a floor jack plus other support, use a 2x4 on an angle for leverage under the drill motor to push up while drilling.

In order to make chips, a certain amount of force has to be applied otherwise, you're just making the drill dull by revving it in the hole.

[David E. Clark]

There are a couple of good short articles: VW Broken Stud & Bolt Removal and The Art of Extraction . Hope they help.

[beamonk]

My friend Howard often soaks with Kroil, then uses a vibrating air hammer to loosen the nuts on the studs to get them off. often with heat. Rarely does he break studs. An old machine shop guy years ago taught me a technique to remove a broken stud that you can get at with a vice grip. He heated the hell out of the head and the stud. While it cooled, he got a bar of gulf wax and melted it on the stud. Got the grips and unscrewed the stud. Worked very well. I guess the wax gives some lube and stays down in the threads longer than a petroleum based liquid does.

[911 tweaks]

John Brasfield... help my feble mind... what is "gulf wax" and where to get it ?? Sounds interesting...
Bob

[beamonk]

Gulf wax is the candle wax that is sold in the bars in grocery store.

[beamonk]

Howie busts te nuts with the chisel

[T77911S]

here is why i was asking about removing the studs. some look like they are broken already. i dont think the thick flange exhaust will because of them

[lucittm]

The studs that are completely threaded look like they may have been replaced at one time.

Mark

[TimT]

Sometimes when you come across a stubborn nut or bolt or stud....

Instead of going medieval on the fastener....

Try and take it a turn tighter..and break the stiction in the fastener that way...

Then work on backing it out....two steps forward on step back

remember "right hand rule"?

[alniki]

Gunter, thanks! That's a pretty detailed explanation and guidance

Guess I just need more imagination to visualize how the penetrating oil creeps against gravity before seeing it in person

[T77911S]

looking at the pics today, the last pic, port that is closest, it looks like the stud on the left is at an angle.

i guess my question now is should i just leave them alone and use thin flange SSI's, if the studs are long enough, or try to replace them and go with the thick flange

[don gilbert]

i always thought the thick flanges were very restrictive the way it has the lip that slides into the port. i use the thin flange ssi with the long studs, i order new oem hardware, and took the old 8mm allens, ground them down to the proper thickness, reamed them out, and used them as spacers. as in my previous post, i thought there were thermal dynamics involved and was afraid to use just any nuts and spacers.

[john walker's workshop]

Originally Posted by don gilbert

i always thought the thick flanges were very restrictive the way it has the lip that slides into the port. i use the thin flange ssi with the long studs, i order new oem hardware, and took the old 8mm allens, ground them down to the proper thickness, reamed them out, and used them as spacers. as in my previous post, i thought there were thermal dynamics involved and was afraid to use just any nuts and spacers.

that's the easiest way out.

[GH85Carrera]

Originally Posted by David E. Clark

There are a couple of good short articles: VW Broken Stud & Bolt Removal and The Art of Extraction . Hope they help.

Neither of those links work for me. I get a cannot display error.

[T77911S]

so the lip that slides into the port is not that improtant. WHERE ARE THOSE THIN FLANGE SSI'S I SAW FOR SALE! wait, where's my money i had, oh yea, that big sucking sound Is the store my wife just bought.
THANKS.

[rick-l]

Originally Posted by David E. Clark

There are a couple of good short articles: VW Broken Stud & Bolt Removal and The Art of Extraction . Hope they help.

they had two http's in them

http://www.airheadparts.com/page.asp?recid=75

www.asashop.org/autoinc/may2003/techtotech.htm

[Gunter]

Originally Posted by T77911S

so the lip that slides into the port is not that improtant. WHERE ARE THOSE THIN FLANGE SSI'S I SAW FOR SALE!
THANKS.

Hmmmm.........
Porsche must have done it for a reason.

The thicker flange is a better heat-sink.

[David E. Clark]

Originally Posted by rick-l

they had two http's in them

http://www.airheadparts.com/page.asp?recid=75

www.asashop.org/autoinc/may2003/techtotech.htm

Thanks Rick,

I fixed the links in my original post:

VW Broken Stud & Bolt Removal

The Art of Extraction