What to put on inner floorpan?

[Carrerax]

I have just put a complete new floorpan on my 70 911t. It is correctly seam sealed etc but Im not sure what to do next. I have searched here and on S registry and am thinking that I dont want to put the stick on noise pads due to the possibility of rust and trapped moisture later on. The car is getting a total restoration but it will be driven. It was suggested to me to use Wurth SKS on the inside of the pans (just like I an doing to the complete underside) but I would like a few more opinions and ideas. Although it will mostly be covered with carpet I would like it to look close to stock. Thanks in advance!

[pozee]

Apply epoxy primer. Either spray or brush on and apply to every single speck of exposed metal.

[Carrerax]

Thanks for the reply Pozee. I am certainly going to do that but I was just wondering what to put over the primer? I really dont want to use the stick on stuff if there is a better solution...

[pozee]

Just posted - No idea where the reply went???

So..let me try and remember what I posted... irritating!

I would go with an oil based paint (color of your choice). Something like Rustoleaum's protective enamel is thick enough for the pan. The key, as you know, is to get the epoxy enamel on there and cured before applying the topcoat. Keep it simple!

Good luck!

[ossiblue]

Sounds like you have a couple of things going on--you want some sound dampening, rust protection, and stock look (at least something close.)

Rust protection first: You've already gotten a good suggeston but there are others such as POR-15 or even the paint-on truck bed liners, if you want durable. There's more out there and remember, it will not be seen if you cover the floorpan with dampening.

Dampening: Point to remember is the difference between dampening and sound "proofing." Dampening is disigned to stop resonance of the sheet metal, not block outside sound, and dampening is what is put on the floor at the factory. There is paint on dampening available and some here have used it. You are adverse to stick on because of the rust issue, but if you use some of the solid (yet heavy) material like Dynamat, it is waterproof and, if applied properly, seals out any water. Being a dampener, you don't have to cover the entire floor to get the effect (check out the interior of your door--it gets than solid "thunk" sound from one rectangular piece of dampening material applied to the door skin.) The factory sound material led to rust because it allowed water to penetrate and sit (horse hair type) and eventually seep to the sheetmetal below. Many newer stick-ons beside Dynamat are impervious to water. Some may be close to the factory look, but you'd have to investigate.

If you want to cut sound noise, you can put automobile carpet padding on top of whatever you decide to apply over the raw floorpans, but don't glue it down. This material will cut road noise, though it is not applied in factory cars of your year. I used it in my 912 on top of Dynamat and the interior was considerably more quiet--if that's your wish. Automobile padding is resistant to heat distruction but will absorb water, but because it is synthetic, you can easily remove it and let it dry.

Hope this helps some. What you decide to do will depend on how "factory" you want to keep something no one sees, and how much dampening and noise reduction you want. There are a lot of new materials out there and you should get lots more suggestions.

[RWebb]

Originally Posted by Carrerax

.... wondering what to put over the primer? I really dont want to use the stick on stuff if there is a better solution...

- what do you want to accomplish?

- reduce sound from rock hits?
- reduce sound from panel vibration?

- ensure it passes concours?

- insulate your feet from cold?

and -- why do you eschew the stick on dampening material [only b/c of rust issues or other reasons]?

[Carrerax]

I really want to make sure that I dont do anything that is going to promote rust in the future. The car will only get minimal mileage (maybe 2-3k yearly) and I just want it to be enjoyable to drive w/o bieng too loud from road noise. Stock insulation would be fine as long as it wouldnt promote rust. Im not worried about heat/cold insulation. It isnt going to be a concours car but I do want to be able to show it from time to time. I want it to look proper under the carpet if possible. I guess Im just gun shy after replacing the whole floor and am scared to use the stock stuff or anything else that wont protect it. If everyone else uses the stick on dampening material and it is ok then I will do that.

[jwernquist]

I like to use Por15, for floors and wheel wells, use there acid etch metal prep first then brush on por15. After that coat it with Wurth SKS.

I know alot of people do it that way as well. Lasts a long long time.

[Carrerax]

Originally Posted by jwernquist

I like to use Por15, for floors and wheel wells, use there acid etch metal prep first then brush on por15. After that coat it with Wurth SKS.

That is exactly what I was thinking about doing. So the SKS will look decent and not half ass...for lack of a better term?

[jwernquist]

yes it looks nice take a look at the thread in my signature I show some results there

[Carrerax]

I didnt see pictures of your floorpan finished there? The car looks great though. Your rust is almost identical to what I had.

[al lkosmal]

jwerquist +1. POR15 with an SKS topcoat.

regards,

Al

[jwernquist]

here are a few pictures of the Por15 and Wurth combo. this is just the first round light coat with low pressure, once the car is painted I will do another coat of wurth and give it a more factory look .

[Iowa911]

Originally Posted by jwernquist

I like to use Por15, for floors and wheel wells, use there acid etch metal prep first then brush on por15. After that coat it with Wurth SKS.

I know alot of people do it that way as well. Lasts a long long time.

Would self-etching primer work in place of the metal prep?

[E Sully]

POR 15 goes directly on the metal. Check out their web site.

[Iowa911]

I did, their website says that if you are using Por-15 on new steel you should use Metal Ready as jwerquist also said. My question again is "is self-etching primer going to accomplish the same thing?"

[RWebb]

if nobody knows, you try to match some of the components by comparing the MSDS sheets.