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I've done it both ways but at this point, if you are having problems you really are better off dropping the transmission to. Its just two more bolts, speedo and the reverse light plug. Quit struggling with it and try this approach.
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Looks like in the next few days I'll be taking out the trans. Guess it's something else to learn how to do on the Porsche. Cool (sort of).
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Good idea, Not to mention a good time to clean up the box, replace the oil and inspect the axles :)
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Make sure you replace your shift rod seal and input shaft seal. Cheap and easy. |
Oh man, I hear the words "while you're in there" chiming down from the Porsche Gods already.
Come on guys. I'm a young guy and on a budget! |
The only extra stuff is cheap, Oil and a few very cheap seals. Money well spent.....and not much to boot.
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Those aren't allens...get a CV joint tool...
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I'm not sure you absolutely need to remove the axles. If you are just looking to drop it down slightly so you can align and mate it to the engine you might be able to get away with putting a jack under it and sliding it backwards/down slightly. A free "while you are in there" is to check the tightness of your CV bolts.
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Do you mean there is an appropriate torque value for the CV bolts? I haven't messed with them before.
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"Is the clutch fork engaged properly when mating the tranny?"
+1 If the clutch fork is not engaging properly on the throw-out bearing, the input shaft will slide through the pressure plate and into the pilot bearing, but you'll end up with the clearance issue you are talking about ... 1". The clutch fork needs to be rotated slightly to clear the rearmost section of the throw-out bearing and then allow the other flange of the bearing to rotate it into position for operation. Get everything lined up and square, then look through the gap between the bellhousing and motor with a flashlight, align the clutch fork properly and slide the motor back. |
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deanp
let me clarify. we can't even get the engine close enough to the trans to have this problem. on the back (fan shroud side) there is not enough room to manuver to successfully mate into the trans side. Literally to get enough clearance (and then, there's still not enough) the engine starter bolt on the engine has to go inside the trans to clear enough room for the fan shoad. Does that make sense? It's hard to explain. But I hope that makes sense. |
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The problem Rick and I are having (I'm helping him on the install) is NOT a clutch fork alignment problem. The engine does not even have enough clearance to mate up properly with the main shaft coming out of the transmission. We are not even at the point where the clutch fork could interfere with the installation yet. We are still too far away. The actual issue is that with no clearance for the fan at the rear lip of the engine bay, the pilot bearing gets hung up under the main shaft on the transmission. We can't move the engine back more to lift it up and get the shaft in. It's just hopelessly stuck. Thus, we moved the engine and transmission up and down in various combinations, but no luck. We always got hung up under the main shaft with the pilot bearing contacting it. I hope this clarifies the issue. I wish we had taken a picture of the pilot bearing as it was. I think we'll have to drop the transmission to fix this issue. |
PICS!!!
Doyle |
Drop the tranny and go from there.......
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How about just removing the Fan assembly? Just a thought.
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So the shift coupler is pressed up pretty good to the top of the tunnel. Working off my bberry and don't have a camera. But I think this is part of my problem.
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Okay. Sorry to make this thread like twitter . . . but I need advice.
Since the coupler doesn't appear to be disconnect it, do I disconnect it now with the engine out? Could that bend the shift rod? I'm searching for my camera . . . |
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