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Sorry Guys, it sounds like your getting some good advise. I will not be able to make it this weekend. Please take pics so I have a better idea what I face soon with my project.
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Disconnecting the shift rod coupler (inside the cabin in the tunnel in front of the rear seat)should have been done way before you began removing the engine (with or without the tranny). Raising and lowering the transmission during removal could bend the shift rod, put stress on the tranny input shaft and screw with the actual coupler itself.
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I had the exact difficulty you are encountering whilst installing the motor and I did have the shift coupler disconnected.I had the motor on a atv jack and rear of the car raised with 2x4 at rear of floor pan with air jack under 2x4(floor jack would've worked).Some one mentioned earlier in the thread about also raising the front of the car to level it and I am wondering if that might have helped but I did not think of it but any way I was on my own with no help and it was getting dark on my driveway and how i eventually got it started as I remember involved raising/lowering rear of car whilst sliding motor in and out to work through the clearance issue at the starter bolt whilst at the same time obtaining clearance for top of fan shroud under the rear cross member.This involved a combination of all of the preceeding plus maybe a bit of tilting of the motor all at the same time and not forgetting to keep an eye on the clutch release fork angle to correctly engage the throw out bearing and do all of these simultaneously(on my own in the dark)It was sweeeet when it slid on there and put the mount bolts in.I decided next time the motor and tranny are both coming out/in together.
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ricks911 you stated early in the thread the coupler was disconnected, if its not this is your problem. before you just uncouple it scrib or mark as needed to help udjustment when you rehook coupler, will save you a fair bit of time. cheers ed |
Looks like the shift coupler is disconnected. It slid off easily, so I don't think there was significant damage done. (as seen below).
I'm going to pull the trans today, if I can figure it all out how to do it safely. Trans mounts appear bent. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1235248126.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1235248229.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1235248372.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1235248524.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1235248572.jpg |
Rick,
remove the tranny and check the shift rod with a straight edge. The hole in the transmission tunnel of my car had the same bent (egglike) appearance as yours. Actually mine was worse. Of course the rod was bent and the seal was leaking from a previous engine removal (not mine). I keep my fingers crossed. Christian |
speedo cable?
does this look like the speedo cable for the 76 915 tranny? on the pass side tranny
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1235253446.jpg |
Yep.
Removing your sway bar can help with access too. |
Follow that wire towards the tunnel...theres a connector in there you need to unplug it....
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It's out. Whew. Thanks a bunch guys. I think the shift rod looks okay . . . . I think.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1235258182.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1235258309.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1235258422.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1235258460.jpg |
rick
congrates on the removal but when we say disconnect coupler we ment that you remove set screw and slide coupler off of tranny shaft. i think this may have given you that little bit extra space you needed. cheers ed |
Houston, the eagle has landed.
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Guess I gotta read the posts to figger out how this turn of events happened ;) |
Hate to be a smarty pants but I built this jack from scratch with one purpose in mind.
The lifting mechanism is made from and old scissor jack screw and block. Our sponsor sells adaptor plates for hydrologic jacks that seem well designed but I built mine about 8 years ago The hardest part of the job is getting the car high enough to get the engine down and out. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1235275635.jpg |
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Next time you do this, print out a checklist of to-do items, and diligently check it off. Even after doing this several times, one can forget a key step. |
Hi Rick
here is what I think you should do after connecting the engine and tranny: - push the shift rod in - put the engine on the ATV stand - put your small jack under the transmission mounts (with a block) - once the engine is in the bay, lower the rear of the car - start wiggling Oh and don't let you cv joints sit on their bearings, you should suspend them. Just my $ .02 Christian |
Quick Update
Through everyone's help, I've made some good progress.
Engine and tranny are under the car and the mating process has begun (1) Engine and tranny are bolted together, and all wiring (stater/rear lights) are hooked up and ready to go. (2) Rolled the engine/tranny back under the car and mated the shift rod to the coupler. (3) When trying to attach my sway bar, the old bushings disintegrated. I will have to get new ones (looks like I'm pretty close to being a stockholder with Pelican ;) ) (4) Both CVs are connected, just need to finish up torquing them. Since I've more or less solved the issues I've raised in this thread, I think I'll post further updates on the original thread I started to track this engine conversion. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/453369-2-7l-3-0l-engine-conversion-swap.html?highlight=conversion+swap Thanks again. Wouldn't have made it through without all your collective help. I'll try to include what lessons I learned here for any other future souls who should need the advice I needed. |
I hope it's not too late to steam clean the tranny!!! (please no Boy George jokes...)
nice pic in the engine comartment.....I hope to add mine soon. |
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