Ride height vs camber question

[mkc1962]

Kinda new to all this alignment talk, but think I'm getting it. Based on all my measures this morning, I am confident the car has been lowered. My front tires are wearing inside unacceptably (rears look ok), but I like the lower stance appearance. My question is.

With a front ride height of approx 156, vs the factory spec of 108+-5, IS it possible to obtain a closer to 0 camber or not? Camber right now is approx, -1.67 on both the front. What is the best I can expect to achieve with this height?

My intended ride habits will be weekend street use only, occasional winding roads.

Ive been this route before when lowering a Miata, so I am aware that there are limits to obtaining decent camber values when certain heights (lowerings)are exceeded. I'm new to Porsche and have no idea what values are achievable with stock equipment.

just for ref, the rear measured -15 height (290-305), camber at -1.55.

Thanks for any input

[Bill Verburg]

Originally Posted by mkc1962

...
With a front ride height of approx 156, vs the factory spec of 108+-5, IS it possible to obtain a closer to 0 camber or not? Camber right now is approx, -1.67 on both the front. What is the best I can expect to achieve with this height?

....

yes, easily. My front A-B is ~155mm w/ great tire wear patterns on 235/40 tires. You don't want zero, but max out stock negative or a little more

[mkc1962]

Bill,

Thanks for the reply and great to hear. Was surely hoping I was not going to have to alter those heights and start all over. I am running the factory recommended sizes, bought new by PO. Yeah I figured 0 is probably not the best,if one wants any kind of handling at all, but maybe -.5, surely has to offer lots better on wear and still give some increased handling.

Considering Stock size tires, anyone got any recommended settings considering my A-B 156ish ride heights?

[aston@ultrasw.c]

One thing to be aware of is the rubber components in the front end deform significantly with lateral loading, especially if they are 20 years old!

1.5 deg neg can quickly become zero when you start generating lateral G.

[mkc1962]

Aston,
you do have a point. But if I can only get 2k miles out of a set of tires, for normal street riding, I'll take my chances at a lesser setting. Right now for sure these tires are running 99% of the time with way too much camber. I do want to replace all the suspension rubber and such in the future, but not right now.

[911st]

For referance on a lowered 911 it is hard in most cases to get over -1.5 front neg camber. I do not know the range of mesurement but you should not have any problem pulling camber back.

Look at your strut tops from inside the front trunk. You should be able to see if you have adjustment range. Moving the strut tops toward the outside of the car reduces camber.

Before you do you might want to check your Toe as this can have a large impact on tire ware.

I think the factory spec is " Zero pressed". It seems a 911 dose not need much if any toe with all the caster it runs.

If possable have the alignment set with your weight in the car if you usally ride alone.

[aston@ultrasw.c]

Good call.

When you start killing the *outside* shoulder of the tire, then you will need to think about bushings.

[mkc1962]

911st,

Right now my strut tops are about 3/16" from being all the way inward. Not sure how much outward I can go to reduce the neg camber, but should be more than enough. This is my first time ever at doing my own alignment, but plenty of info here as well as I got with Ray Scruggs on his booklet. The toe is pretty close to spec, but the camber at both fronts is approx -1.67.

My plan is to load up the front seat area with pavers to simulate my weight.

Alton,
right now only wear on any of the tires is that inside front. I was planning to upgrade to Bilstiens in the future and when I do, I'll probably take the time to inspect and or replace all suspension rubber at that time. Of course then comes another alignment, so now is a good a time as any to learn how and get it right before I go in with all new parts.

[911st]

Sounds like your struts are set at full neg camber as there is a limit to how far inward they can go as set by the attachment holes. You should be able to get to -1 or less w/o issue.

Not sure but I think .3 inch of movement outward is about one deg if the struts are about 18" from the ball joint to the strut top. If you need more you might elongate the 3 attachment holes on each strut.

The holes are the first limit to how far the strut can be adjusted. Then the diameter of the strut top and the shock hat hitting the body.

[Porsche84]

Changing camber will significantly change toe settings. Make sure you adjust toe after you get to final camber positions. Toe is real easy to check/adjust with a set of strings. I am sure you can find info on how to do that, if not, let me know.

[mkc1962]

Jerry,

I Plan to do both the camber and toe on the front end..will check and document the rear but probably not mess with it as it so far appears to be ok.

more than likely use the string method for the toe, and the buiders level or framing square aproach for the camber.

[mkc1962]

911st,

Yeah I think its pretty close to max negative but maybe not quite all the way..I can see where someone has placed a screwdriver or similar on the inboard side and forced the strut top outward about 1/8 - 3/16..both sides are about the same..coincidentally, both sides showed the same -1.67. I'll find out more the next day I get a chance to start getting down and dirty with this.

[911st]

For what it is worth, Sears sells a digital torpedo level that might be useful for setting camber. It is very accurate. I removed the center caps on my Fuchs and set it against the face to measure. It is only about 10" long. Also good for setting the rear arm angle.

[mkc1962]

going to sears later this week..will check it out