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Removing Glue Residue?
I'm currently in the process of stripping my entire entire thanks to finding some rust in the rear seat area when I got my roll cage installed. I've stripped away the large chunks of sound deadening material, used a powered wire brush to knock off any loose junk and I'm now left with the residual glue from the side panels and carpet that needs to be cleaned off before I can POR15 the interior.
I tried mineral spirits to remove the glue but that doesn't seem to be doing the job. I'm going to try Acetone tomorrow but I'd thought I'd ask the PP brain trust of any other solvents or techniques that can be used to get the glue adhesive off. |
go to Lowe's or Home Depot and try "Goof-Off"
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It's been a long while since I did what you are doing, but I believe I used laquer thinner, xytol, and acetone at different times. As I recall, all of these solvents will dissolve the glue but all have strong fumes so work with a small amount in very well venilated areas.
The xytol evaporates the slowest, followed by laquer thinner,and acetone evaporates almost instantly--something to consider as you work. I'd recommend using any solvent as little as possible, but there are times when it is the best remedy. If you use POR-15, be sure all solvent residue is removed by the waterbased cleaner they recommend. Follow the directions for prep of the POR-15 to the letter. |
Thick nasty glue needs a "Flail"...."goof off" won't do it. It goes on a grinder and rotates steel strips like an old Medieval weapon of the same name.
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Forget the "Goof-Off," which is actually called Goo-Gone. It's fine for removing leftover glue from labels and the like but won't be a bit of help to you.
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I have had good success with SEM Solve when I was working on getting the old gasketadhesive off front fender lips and the channel at the back of the hood. I got it at a Baxter Autoparts store as suggested by the staff. It did a pretty good job on all but the thickest adhesive residue I encountered. Not to say it is magically easy or anything like that.
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I just did this job recently and tried all sorts of citrus based cleaning products, thinners, kerosene, etc. The only thing that actually worked was 'Goof-off'. The trick is to get a whole bag of shop rags that you are willing to throw away and use a new rag frequently. Also, after spraying directly on the glue, wait a minute. It sometimes takes a bit of time for the glue to loosen up.
Use a mask because the fumes get pretty nasty. |
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3M adhesive remover works great on p- car adhesives most all of them, spray let soften then scrape up & wipe. Available at most auto parts stores, will not remove paint.
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I've heard white gas...like you would use for camp stoves...works well
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+1 on the goo-gone, waste of money, lots of frustration! diesel...but lots of fumes .....how about hot air gun and paint scraper...I used a product by JASCO adhesive remover, but I used it on concrete to remove glue( from carpet), so i don't know how it would treat metal, it was the only thing that worked in that application , used EVERYTHING else & nothing would touch it but this stuff
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best stuff iv ever used, iv even used it to remove glue left in my house from pealing up old self stick tiles in the bath room!.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA280_.jpg |
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1235972089.jpg |
That's the stuff I used and I agree, it works well.
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Thanks for the advice everyone. It seems that 3M adhesive remover or Goof-off could be exactly what I need. Hopefully I'll be able to find one of them and then I can report back.. and hopefully with pictures of a cleaned interior.
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I did mine with acrylic thinners... It's hard work but very satisfying.
Hope things go well. :) What I found after removing the carpet. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1235999298.jpg |
This is after some cleaning and rust removal. You can see the POR15 on the rear firewall and the "Metal ready" doing it's thing in the seat wells.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1235999538.jpg |
I just finished cleaning the old glue residue from the trunk area of my Sc. I agree mineral spirits is a waste of time but great exercise. Likewise many of the lemon based adhesive removers. I finally use Laquer thinner (Acetone) and elbow grease and it came off without damaging the paint. Porsche used some strong glue that just got harder over the years. Good luck
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"Strong Glue" It's beyond anything available today...
I wish you could still buy it. My car is was 30 years old at the time and I couldn't believe how hard to stuff was to get off... Heaps of thinners and rags. But again, It's worth doing. Had I not done mine the floor would have rotted through... :cool: |
sc_rufctr: Your interior looks to be in better shape than mine. I've got surface rust across half the hump, on a lot of rear passenger seat and a little around the seat belt receptacle on the driver side rear seat. Luckily it is all surface rust which I determined after spending a lot of time hitting the metal. Also Porsche didn't paint the interior metal - it is all bare - so on the plus side I have a little less prep work to do. :)
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If it's only surface rust then it should work out fine.
Take your time and if it all seems like it's too much work just focus on one smaller area at a time. Get that done and move onto the next smallish area. Before you know it you'll be finished. :cool: |
If there is rust to remove why don't you use a wire wheel attachment for your grinder and get the glue , paint and rust off all in one whack? Home Depot sells one that has the twisted wire and that suckker will remove anything. My .02 worth.
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Another Pelican and I have just gone through this and compared notes in the process. We both used brake cleaner and that worked well. It is discussed in these threads:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/california-southwest-us-az-nv/443725-plunge.html http://forums.pelicanparts.com/california-southwest-us-az-nv/458484-my-911spec-build.html |
I picked up the 3M adhesive remover and it does the job nicely. However I ran out of daylight so I've still have the driver's side to go.
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