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85eurocarrera's Avatar
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pazuzu View Post
It's piggybacked with the big red one. The black cable feeds power to both the starter and then the red cable, which goes and feeds all of the various things in the engine bay.
Thank you! Just wanted to be sure.

Old 04-13-2018, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by KTL View Post
This picture just makes me cringe. It's *this* close to touching the transmission case and starting an unintended welding job!!!!!
I assume the battery was disconnected during the install.
Old 04-13-2018, 09:12 AM
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Here's a shot of mine. Black wire battery . Red wire to alternator
Old 04-13-2018, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmax View Post
I assume the battery was disconnected during the install.
Fair assumption. But if somebody thinks black is ground.............
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Old 04-13-2018, 10:09 AM
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After wiring houses and garages, I would never assume that the black wire was ground. In house wiring, the black wire is always the hot wire. Red is also a hot wire, such as a wire that is switched or the 2nd hot wire in a 240v circuit. White is the color of the neutral wire while ground wires are either green or bare. So, just another color coding convention to add to the confusion!
Old 04-13-2018, 11:22 AM
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Easy way to remember is that "brown is ground the world around!"
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Old 04-13-2018, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tippy View Post
Why do you think we haven't converted to metric?

I'd say it has to do with aviation. We DO rule the world in aviation. The US made it mandatory for all aircraft around the world to use our tail number identification and to speak English if you're a pilot.

Can you imagine trying to retool all the machining equipment in the world to metric when all the gradations are in imperial? There's many machines that were built around WWII that are still spitting out parts.

Second, you can't convert all of the airplanes that are currently flying to metric. It would be silly and uneconomical IMO.
I love the metric adoption topic. Why aren't all these metric countries using metric TIME?
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Old 04-13-2018, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by rsrfan View Post
I went with a "piggy back" terminal I obtained at the local auto parts store. It basically connects to the spade on the starter then branches off to two (2) other spades which connect to the factory wires.
Sorry for resurrecting an old thread, but I thought I could probably save some other folks some time. I just ordered and received a new Hi-Torque starter from our host. When I ordered, I asked the rep about the need for an adapter for the two quick disconnects onto the new starter. They said they didn't think I'd need any such thing.

I received the starter today and sure enough, only one terminal on the starter as previously discussed. I called our host and they confirmed they don't carry any such adapter. I checked all the local auto parts stores and no one has them in stock. I ordered from Amazon but of course it'll take a couple days. For the next person who orders a new starter, what you need is:

"Dorman Conduct-Tite Interior Disconnect Piggybacks, Double Male w/ .25" Tabs" or similar, such as "Ancor 230613 Marine Grade Electrical Double Male-Female Adapter" on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NI1G0C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-conduct-tite-double-male-with-250-in-tabs-interior-disconnect-piggybacks-85613/22141310-P
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Old 12-11-2019, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KTL View Post
This picture just makes me cringe. It's *this* close to touching the transmission case and starting an unintended welding job!!!!!
hoping for the battery to be disconnected during the mentioned assembly...
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Old 12-11-2019, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gretz View Post
Sorry for resurrecting an old thread, but I thought I could probably save some other folks some time. I just ordered and received a new Hi-Torque starter from our host. When I ordered, I asked the rep about the need for an adapter for the two quick disconnects onto the new starter. They said they didn't think I'd need any such thing.

I received the starter today and sure enough, only one terminal on the starter as previously discussed. I called our host and they confirmed they don't carry any such adapter. I checked all the local auto parts stores and no one has them in stock. I ordered from Amazon but of course it'll take a couple days. For the next person who orders a new starter, what you need is:

"Dorman Conduct-Tite Interior Disconnect Piggybacks, Double Male w/ .25" Tabs" or similar, such as "Ancor 230613 Marine Grade Electrical Double Male-Female Adapter" on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NI1G0C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-conduct-tite-double-male-with-250-in-tabs-interior-disconnect-piggybacks-85613/22141310-P
And another resurrection - thanks for posting that Amazon link! Saved me a bunch of time trying to find the right one 🍻
Old 08-21-2023, 05:19 PM
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It's a bit annoying when you buy a new starter from Pelican they don't suggest or insist you buy that little piggy-back clip... since it IS needed.
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Old 10-26-2023, 08:13 AM
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Anyone have a pic of the fully-installed starter, all wired up with any adapter you purchased separately? My new starter from Pelican came with a pigtail with an adapter on one side and a stripped bare end on the other.

Thanks, and happy Easter! 🐇

Last edited by garment; 03-31-2024 at 04:28 PM..
Old 03-31-2024, 07:06 AM
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NAPA sells those clips too. There is also a style that is a spade crimp-on connector (crimp onto the yellow wire) that has a piggyback additional spade on it. Buy a package of 5 or 10 for not much more than that single one at Autozone. You will find other uses for them, trust me.
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Old 03-31-2024, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garment View Post
Anyone have a pic of the fully-installed starter, all wired up with any adapter you purchased separately? My new starter from Pelican came with a pigtail with an adapter on one side and a stripped bare end on the other.

Thanks, and happy Easter! 🐇
Check out this thread: https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/424087-high-torque-starter-install.html

It also covers the possibility that you may have to reposition the mounting plate to clear the heater hose.

Mark
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Old 03-31-2024, 06:29 PM
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On my 85 i had to get a new heater hose to clear starter without extending battery cable. Old hose was just 3/4” too short. May have been trimmed at some point.
Old 04-01-2024, 06:58 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #35 (permalink)
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I had same issue as 911obgyn, the cable was too short no matter how I rotated the new hi torque starter. Finally went to Oreilly's and just got a 1 foot battery cable extender and problem solved.
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Old 04-02-2024, 04:57 AM
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Adding onto this thread because it’s not worth starting a new one. High-torque starter is in and with the power lug on top of the new starter my battery cable just is not getting there. Alternator wire is fine. Am I missing something really obvious, like there’s a bunch of slack somewhere that I can take up?

Súper kosher thing is to run a new, longer battery cable but if this were necessary I’d know it from reading about it. I suppose battery cable extenders are a thing but seems hinky.
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Old 05-11-2025, 03:12 PM
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Thats a drag.
Might have to splice in a few extra inches or run an all new wire, which might have benefits. I believe I posted about this already but the hi-torque starter I installed on my car had something different about the mounting bolts .. so, again, it was not a simple 'plug n' play'....never is, it seems.
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Old 05-11-2025, 04:38 PM
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Yeah, one of my good friends responded by offering to fab a new cable for me (he has the tools and hardware).

So, do any of y’all know the length, gauge and terminal sizes of the factory power cable? Or at least length and gauge. Then i can add like 6-8” to the length. I’m about 4” off.

I do not look forward to the idea of running a new cable from the battery to the starter but, as you say, it does have its advantages. Adding an extender is easy but I’ve got to insulate the connection so it doesn’t short on anything. I don’t have tools for splicing anything.
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Old 05-11-2025, 04:57 PM
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I wouldn't fabricate a new wire w/o removing and getting an actual side by side comparison to get your needed length - exactly. But FIRST I would trace the OEM wire all the way back. You might find an area where the oem cable can be pulled & snugged up a bit toward the alternator. It's also am opportunity to relocate the battery to the smugglers box ~ then you will have a few extra feet of wire

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Old 05-11-2025, 05:30 PM
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