Where to look for rust 1970, 911T

[ecostellodo]

I will be looking at a 1970 911T tomorrow and don't have time to have it inspected. From what I have learned here, look at the pan, floor, rockers, battery tray, fenders. Any special areas to really look at?

I am coming from the 944 world and those bodies are galvanized.

thanks

[red67]

sounds like you have it pretty covered there with rust spots.

check the rear parcel shelf they rust.

the floor particularly below the pedal cluster/accel pedal usually rots, all the dirt gets trapped around there.

bottom of the doors also.

if its a targa, then below and rear of the targa bar also i believe is a catch point for water, and hence rust. (targa guys will know more than i on that)

[ossiblue]

There are so many trouble spots but you know about the most obvious. Given time being short, do a search here (use the "search" button at the top of the page) as there are many threads which have diagrams that pinpoint locations of rust. If I can find one quickly, I will post a link or someone will soon, I'm sure.

In short, besides the places you've listed, look at: Door bottoms, door jambs at the bottom, door sills by the sill covers, corner of windshield and along the cowl, along windshield seal, rear windshield bottom corners, around headlights, trunk latch panel, rear seat wells, around turn signals (from behind, especially), jack points, torsion bar covers, lateral supports, and torsion bar tube.

Be thorough and be prepared to get dirty. Take a flash light, sharp probe (like ice pick but use it sparingly and only with owners permission), and a magnet. Be cautious of new paint and undercoat, look around and behind (if possible) all body seals or push on them and listen for a "crunch."

Good luck, and report back--we're always interested.

[Rich Lambert]

Everything ossiblue said plus the front suspension pan. Poke around the T-bar mounting points. Even if it looks solid, poke it with the ice pick. The torsion bars attach to the low point of the suspension pan where moisture collects.

Don't be caught by surprise like I was. These areas looked completely intact ("looked" being the key word there) when I bought this car...the pictures are 6 months later and that time was spent in a dry heated garage. The damage was MUCH worse than the pictures show.



Also, if there's any undercoating that looks different from the surrounding area or new, poke around in that too.

Good luck...keep us posted and take pictures!

[RSTarga]

everywhere!!!

[Tom F2]

Originally Posted by ecostellodo

I will be looking at a 1970 911T tomorrow and don't have time to have it inspected. From what I have learned here, look at the pan, floor, rockers, battery tray, fenders. Any special areas to really look at?

I am coming from the 944 world and those bodies are galvanized.

thanks

Targa or coupe? If it's a coupe, start with the chassis number. It will be something like 91101xyyyy. If x=1, it's a Porsche built chassis, if x=2, it's a Karmann built chassis. Starting in 1970, the Porsche built chassis have galvanized inner sections, including the floor. All of the Targas were Porsche built. In my opinion, the Porsche built cars fare bettter for rust. Others on this board may disagree.

All of the early 911s have rust issues, however, so don't take anything for granted.

Also, if you do a search on Pelican, you should find some excellent illustrations of the trouble spots.

[ecostellodo]

thanks for the help everyone. Much appreciated.

eric

[RWebb]

I'll add to Rich's admonition. Rust in many areas is often concealed and that is definitely true for the front A-arm mounting points. The welded on part is poorly designed, as the gap between the sheet metal pieces tapers to a narrow, acute angle, making for a sure-fire water trap.

This area had been inspected several times in the last 15 years but revealed a LOT of nasty rust when I got n there with a pick, screwdriver, mirror & good flashlight:



There was more rust in that acute, narrow angled crevice but it cannot be photographed w/o a fiber endoscope. I scraped it out with a variety of dental picks and whatnot.

More info on this thread:
Yet Another Boring Rgruppe Car – Part II, Suspension

[peecarfan]

If the car has the S rocker panels, see if you can remove them and have a look at what's underneath. On mine, I found rust at the bottom of the front fender (just rear of the wheel arch). Mud and dirt tends to collect there and can corrode over the years. If you can't remove the rocker panels, you might be able to feel for it from behind. The rocker panels do a good job of hiding this spot as I only found it after 2 years of owning the car. It's true what others say - it's pretty hard to find a rust-free early car unless it's completely restored. Good luck with the inspection!

[RWebb]

see:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/343302-69e-bare-metal-post4561486.html#post4561486

for what happens if the pedal cluster area is not addressed....

[Sunroof]

Does not matter if its an "S", "E" or a "T", as an owner of a 1973.5T I can tell you that one critical spot that is well known for rust is the "bowl" under the rear seat accessible under the car above the half shafts. What happens here is with rear pop-our windows, seals can weaken and water will weep past the seal run down inside over the wheel well and under the rear seat and cushioning. This is where rust will begin and perforate where moisture will make its way into the "bowl" under the seat. Unseen and allowed to remain the metal is eventually impacted. Wiring bundles are held at these locations with rubber retainers that attach into the bowl. Here is where the greatest deterioration occurs.

A good mechanic performing a PPI on an older 911 will use a small pick and without tearing the car apart locate rusted areas.

Good luck

Bob

[ossiblue]

Just to tag onto Sunroof a bit, beginning in 72, I believe, there was a molded rubber cover over the very area he mentions. Unless you remove the cover and expose the metal underneath, the deterioration will go undetected.