Front Sway Bar Reinforcement for adjustable sways

[Gordo2]

I'm upgrading my 83 SC to Tarett adjustable anti-sway bars. As I researched the project, I found a few recommendations for newer cars to reinforce the fender well/body area where the sway bar passes through. Seemed like a good idea to me, so I went for it.

I picked up some scrap sheet metal at our local metal recycler. I think it's 14 or 1 gauge; pretty heavy and very difficult to bend.

I made a template based on one that I found in another thread by 89911 - (thanks, your pictures pushed me over the edge & into this project)

Where To Drill Hole For Front Adj Sways

Here's the template, a blank and one reinforcement peice nearly ready to install:


And a little better view of the peice:



And a side view, after I beat the crap out of it, to make it conform to the contours of my fender well:



I cleaned an outline of undercoating in the area around where I would weld the panel in place and also drilled a small centering hole in the wheel well so I could find the stock location:



Welded it in place and cut the hole



I'm going to cover the welds with some good seam sealer (3M) and then spray the area with bedliner (good hard stuff) and then final coat.

Fun project, took most of the moring.

Gordo

[89911]

Nice. Don't forget the rear sway bar mounts also, if you haven't done so already!

[Gordo2]

I was able to get back to the project this afternoon. Applied Eastwood brush on seam sealer to the weld area. Appears to be pretty good stuff, very similar to the undercoating in the wheel well:



Before I primered and sealed, I did some final tweaking of the body to make sure that the mounts were aligned. I mounted the sway bar braket and used a 1" piece of metal pipe (didn't want to bend my sway bar) inserted through the bracket to bend the panel in the direction required to align to two cut outs:



First I made sure it was level, then adjusted forward to rear to correctly mate up with the other side (adjusted the other side as well).

I think you could bend the non-reinforced wheel well without much effort; with the heavy metal plate in place, it took both the 1" bar and some hammering to get things aligned.

Gordo

[911pcars]

"Before I primered and sealed, I did some final tweaking of the body to make sure that the mounts were aligned. I mounted the sway bar braket and used a 1" piece of metal pipe (didn't want to bend my sway bar) inserted through the bracket to bend the panel in the direction required to align to two cut outs:"

You also could have aligned both reinf. plates with the 1" pipe after tacking one side in place. How much can one tweak sheet metal after welding both in place?

Sherwood

[Gordo2]

Originally Posted by 911pcars

[b]
You also could have aligned both reinf. plates with the 1" pipe after tacking one side in place. How much can one tweak sheet metal after welding both in place?

Sherwood

Good thought, but a little late. Maybe next time...

Frankly I was a little surprised at how closely aligned you need to have the holes in the wheel wells in order mount the sway bar without binding. Pretty tight tolerance once you push the bar through the busings.

Gordo

[euro911sc]

Another after the fact recommendation: drill a series of holes in your reinforcement and then fill/tack them to the body. Also note that the plate was held in position by the 3 mounting holes 1st:
thread:
The Journey Begins- 911ST recreation




Not hacking on your good work at all If you wish to retro tack I think you could do it with a spot weld drill, maybe...

Best regards,

Michael

[Gordo2]

Originally Posted by euro911sc

Not hacking on your good work at all

Best regards,

Michael

Thanks Michael,

Just looking at your welds in comparison to mine is a hack Very nice welding work!

Out of curiosity, what kind of welder did you use (MIG, TIG)? Did you do the welds or did a pro do that? I struggled some with the different gauge materials: thicker reinforcement plate as compared to the body panel. I had to be very careful to avoid burn through. I also had a very difficult time getting the reinforcement plate mated up to the curves of the fender well - 1/8" gaps at some points, adding to the fun of welding...

Good tips, and makes for a better future reference/resource for anyone considering the job in the future.

Thanks, Gordo

[sc_rufctr]

Apologies for my ignorance in advance but is this really necessary?

I've had my Weltmeister through body sway bar on the front of my car for about 9 years and haven't have any issues. I do track my car on occasion but it's mostly street driven... (like I stole it)

[euro911sc]

LOL I wish that was my work! Unfortunately, mine look more like chicken poop I use powder coating to hide the welds That pic is sniped from Dave of TRE on a ST recreation. I just have a little old Hobart MIG that I mess with every now and then.

This is not that necessary unless you go big susp. and big bars compared to the early car thru body bars. The sheet metal will distort easily, though, and it makes for a much better pivot point if it doesn't. I am sure someone will have a pic of one or two ripped out

Best regards,

Michael