My modest maintenance project completed :-)

[steely]

Well I finally completed my winter project of replacing the fuel lines in my ’87. It was quite the experience, and I have to say I couldn’t have done it without the help of folks from here, Rennlist, and Wayne’s 101 book. When I got the car last year, the lines were the first thing on my list of things to do, and when I started I quickly found/added normally maintained things that had been neglected to the WIIT list, (standard stuff) such as:

Oil Press Switch
Oil Thermostat O-ring
Intake runner gaskets
CC Breather gasket
SS braided fuel lines with AN / Metric fittings
New Plugs, rotor, distributor cap, ignition lines
Speed/flywheel sensors
Replaced “pipeline” and other various vacuum lines
Electroless nickel plated the fan (non-purist bling 1)
Powder coated the fan housing gloss black (bling 2)
Cleaned the throttle body, AFM, runners, Air Box.
General engine compartment cleaning
Replaced throttle plate springs
Reset (or more accurately, Set) the throttle idle position so the switch activates, and
Rear Bilstiens


Things I’d do differently?
I should have tackled the injectors, but I’ll refurb/replace them later.
I was not proficient in making lines – it took a little practice, and although I saved big money by not buying OEM, I spent a little more than I wanted to on fittings. I probably should have opted for a set from Amazon.
Another gotcha, Don’t plate/paint machined (keyed/threaded) surfaces. I talked about it with the vendor, but there was still a mis-cue.
Last, I also tracked a little anti-seize in on the rug – big mistake if you’re married, so add the cost of a professional carpet cleaner visit ($135 US) (economy stimulus?).

Moment of truth was yesterday evening, as I tried to prime (not really necessary) and test the fuel lines for leaks – while trying to start the car. I had no joy as I tried to troubleshoot, looking for a spark first from the cyl #1, then from the coil, and then I thought the coil or brain went. Thinking it more likely that I crossed the flywheel sensors, I swapped them and my wife was able to start it right up (not sure if I gained points or dodged a hefty deduction). It felt phenomenal, like, it started-right-up (grin). I shut down and re-started, testing, smelling for leaks – there were none – so I took her for a quick local test run and she ran great.

Prior to this, the car never idled properly, with all due respect to the PO and his wrench – but I did find and correct an issue with the idle switch – big smile as it idles now!!! I was also surprised realizing how well the car was running at all after having seen the condition of the original (and I do think I mean original) rotor/ignition lines and dizzy – major cracks, carbon, terminal damage. All in all, I think I gained a few hp and a lot of peace of mind.

Anyway, thanks to this site, and all of you for the incredible wealth of input and encouragement.

before

During


After

[autovon]

Well done, brother. Do you mind if I ask where you got the spark plug wires? Again, good job.

von

[steely]

Thanks autovon - the wires are the magnecore 8.0mm (blues), I got'em from Apex Performance LLC ($150 - www.apexperformance.net). To be fair, all other material was from our host. They're bigger than stock, smaller than the magnecore red, but suit me fine. I added the white labels but will remove them once I finish 'dressing' the leads so they're a little neater before I put the heater back.

[RSTarga]

your fan turned out great. who did the plating?

[steely]

Thanks very much RSTarga, I'm happy with it, after considering polishing or painting - Millennium plating in Mass (http://www.magplate.com/) did the work - pelican frankc (from Austin) turned me on to them.

[Monza_dh]

Looks awesome. Its amazing what a cleaned up fan and shroud can do for the overall look (and HP )of the bay. I just finished up a similar clean up (my fan looked just like yours) and replaced the rear line but havent tackled the main line just yet.

took this today:

[steely]

Looks great Monza', did you polish it? (yes, definitely a lot faster now)

[steely]

a couple of folks asked for parts lists, so here it is...

Sites I got a lot of inspiration from for the fuel line (Thanks Ian/jbrinkley):
http://members.rennlist.com/imcarthur/fuel-lines.htm
carrera fuel line, (BAT and AN fittings)

Parts:

http://www.amstreetrod.com/CatalogIndex.php4
http://amstreetrod.com/HoseEnds.php4

-6 AN stainless tee fitting, qty 1, American Street Rod Performance Products 962406
8 ft PerformOflex fuel line, Am. Street Rod, 400060
Straight swivel seal -6 AN connectors, qty 3, Am. Street Rod, 800106


http://www.batinc.net/porsche.htm
http://64.202.180.37/files/ahosend.pdf

30 degree AN-6 Hose end fitting BATinc.net F30-6 (used 1)
45 degree AN-6 Hose end fitting BATinc.net F45-7 (used 1)
90 degree AN-6 Hose end fitting BATinc.net F90-1606 (qty 1)
Adapter 16mm to AN stainless BATinc.net AF16AN6S (bought 5, used 2)
16mm str to -6AN BATinc.net FS-1606 (qty2)

Please note that as I assembled things, I did make a few local changes like ditching a 150 degree fitting for a 90 at the filter, and ditching some adapters for metrics (purchased separately later) from BAT. This saved me some clearance issues I had during a dry fit – the fitting and adapters would bump into t he runner, so I sprang for metric, and wound up with some extra fittings left over ($). I also found I had at least a foot of tubing left over. I did not do the drain from the FPR to the tank line, so I may do that later.

Pelican (our host):
Item Name Item Price Quantity Item Total
--------- ---------- -------- ----------
12-14-1-708-619-M14 $71.25 2 $142.50
Flywheel Position Sensor, 2 Needed Per Car, M3 (1987-91)

B46-0169-M12 $111.75 2 $223.50
Rear Bilstein Shock for 911, 911 Turbo, 1972-89

999-192-254-50-M21 $10.50 1 $10.50
A/C Belt, 911 1984-89, 13.0x1155 Brand: Contitech

PEL-7075BS $4.90 10 $49.00
Aftermarket Alloy Lug Nut, Black, each

999-924-069-00-OEM $4.50 2 $9.00
Accelerator Rod Bushing, 2 req, 911 1984-89 Brand: Genuine Porsche

911-110-165-08-OEM $8.50 2 $17.00
Throttle Return Spring, 2 per car, 911 1984-89

999-707-314-40-M17 $2.00 1 $2.00
Engine Thermostat O-Ring, 911/911 Turbo 1965-89, Oil Pressure Sender
O-Ring, 911 1990-98

4016-M14 $3.00 6 $18.00
Bosch Spark Plug Platinum core and yttrium added WR-7-DP+ 4016, 911
Carrera 1984-89, 912E 1976, Each Brand: Bosch

911-606-230-00-M85 $6.50 1 $6.50
Oil Pressure Switch, 911 & Turbo 1969-89, Each Brand: Facet

930-107-791-02-M17 $4.25 1 $4.25
Crankcase Breather Cover Gasket, 911/911 Turbo 1974-89 Brand: Victor Reinz

JWST-G50-BUSH $21.00 1 $21.00
G50 Shifter Bushing Kit, JWest Engineering, 911 1987-89, 911 Turbo
1989 Brand: JWest Engineering

930-602-902-01-M14 $10.50 1 $10.50
Ignition Rotor, 911 Carrera 1984-89 Brand: Bosch

930-602-919-00-M14 $48.75 1 $48.75
Distributor Cap, 911 Carrera 1984-89 Brand: Bosch

930-110-393-00-M67 $9.00 1 $9.00
Air filter, 911 Carrera 1984-89 Brand: Mahle Filter

999-192-176-50-M21 $5.50 1 $5.50
Alternator or Air Pump Belt, 10 x 710 Service-Free belt, 911 1974-75,
911 1980-89, 911 Turbo 1976-79, 911 Turbo 1986-89 Brand: Contitech

911-618-154-00-M252 $30.50 1 $30.50
DME Relay located under driver seat, 911 Carrera 1984-89 Brand: Kaehler

930-110-573-01-M136 $11.75 1 $11.75
Intake Manifold Rubber Sleeve, 911 Carrera 1984-89 Brand: OEM

930-110-459-00-M260 $8.00 6 $48.00
Insulator, 911 Carrera 1984-89 Brand: OEM

930-110-197-14-M17 $1.75 12 $21.00
Intake Manifold Gasket each, 12 required, 911 Carrera 1984-89 Brand: Victor Reinz


And Magnecores (from Apex….)
Item# Qty Product Description Price Total
60108-A 1989-1985 911 Carrera (3.2 engine) 8.0mm, Blue Wires 1 $131.06

I found out later that I should have gotten the 'green' tstat oring - it is supposedly better. and if you're wondering, i wound up buying this stuff over the course of a few months. Lastly, the flywheel sensors were for a BMW, but cost half that of the Porsche and work the same.

While I had things out, took the alternator to an established place in Phila, Steve at Pryor Auto Electric (I’ve been there before for other cars). Steve told me after testing my Alt that the PO must have already had the unit refurbed since the brushes were like new, and he saw no need to change out the bearing after testing it and the regulator. I give the guy credit for his honesty.