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high output alternator

Does anybody have one of these?
I am in the process of replacing my alternator. Currently I have whatever is stock in a 1975 911S. I have an external regulator. I don't think it has been changed.
It could be 70 amp, possibly 55 amps. I don't know.
My guess would be 70.

I want to get rid of the external regulator and have one self contained unit. I am about to have the engine rebuilt and want that side clean or used for ignition components.

I see a 75 amp alternator for sale here on Pelican that looks like it would be the replacement.
I also see the 95 amp replacement alternators that could also be used as a replacement.

My headlights do get brighter when I rev the engine and I realize that is probably just the regulator. But, since I am going to a single unit instead which one should I get?

Are there any drawbacks with going to 95 amps?
Could you have too much? I do have a powerful amp, lots of speakers, a sub and H4s.


Thanks.
Lance


Last edited by dipso; 04-26-2009 at 04:23 PM..
Old 04-26-2009, 04:03 PM
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I use stock 84-89 Valeo alternator
Valeo doesn't require me to modify the dash idiot light unlike the Bosch unit as written up in the P Tech Notes of the Workshop Manual.

I ran 130/100w Narva bulbs, 4x75w amp, which doesn't draw as much as you might think unless run max volume, without problems.

about "high output alternator"
Routine car alternators should not operate at a load exceeding 40% of alternator output rating afai know. I believe the "high output alternator" may be able to run at higher % like marine alternators without burning out. These units should have huge diodes ++. They cost more because they are a more durable unit.

then there's the issue of external vs internal regulator heat damage
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Ronin LB
'77 911s 2.7
PMO E 8.5
SSI Monty
MSD JPI
w x6
Old 04-26-2009, 05:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoninLB View Post
I
then there's the issue of external vs internal regulator heat damage
You don't think they took that into consideration when designing these.
Have you heard bad things about internal regulators?
Old 04-26-2009, 05:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dipso View Post

You don't think they took that into consideration when designing these.
Have you heard bad things about internal regulators?
from my own research I come up with 210F before the internal regulator goes kaput. I could be wrong so don't use it as hard info. I guess that would be an issue with a track car that gets turned off after a hot run or anyone else running hot ambient and then stops for gas like on a hot desert run. With this in mind I always lift lid and high idle at 2k rpm before shutting down for a couple of minutes and still leaving lid open while gassing up. I'll also slow down from higher speeds in the right lane about 5mi before gas stop.

I have never seen a "high output alternator" so only a guess that if they considered it an issue they would have a large heat sink for the internal regulator.

that's all I know about the issue

Meanwhile I've never had an internal regulator issue with my routine, even cruising 110F deserts for days. When I'm in LA during summer how I handle it "depends" on how hot engine is. Bonus coupons for me is that I'm cooling down CD at same time.

different strokes......

Plenty of Arizona pelicanheads around that may have more info to offer.
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Ronin LB
'77 911s 2.7
PMO E 8.5
SSI Monty
MSD JPI
w x6
Old 04-26-2009, 06:22 PM
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My engine temps are definitely over 210.
When it is hot out here in the 90s I get close to 250.
Old 04-26-2009, 06:32 PM
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210F for internal regulator, not oil temp.
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Ronin LB
'77 911s 2.7
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MSD JPI
w x6
Old 04-26-2009, 06:37 PM
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Doh!
Old 04-26-2009, 06:56 PM
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that's ok

I threw out a lot

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Ronin LB
'77 911s 2.7
PMO E 8.5
SSI Monty
MSD JPI
w x6
Old 04-26-2009, 07:02 PM
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