Skills, +1 on that!

Amazing work. Keep it up!

Holy cow! Subscribed for sure!!!

Very well thought out..

- Nice car to start with...

- Should be even hotter when completed..

I had been silently following this thread but can't contain myself... Subscribed !!

Paul

I have put in a few G50 tubes over the years and I like how you removed the rear panel.

Good job your doing there. Keep up the good work.

Are you putting in a G50 or a G50-50 tube?

The donor tube came out of an '87.

Great work! Enjoy the project and the finished product.

Nice build! subd

Thanks for all of the positive comments. I have been swamped with work during the past week and not had any chance to provide an update.

As previously outlined, the rear seat was cut out to
1. make it easier to install of the G50 torsion tube.
2. provide access for the SRP adjustable rear control arm boxes

I decided to do the replacement panels in 4 seperate pieces and tried to follow as much of the lines from the tub as possible to make the panels easier to fit. The replacement panels were folded up by a local sheet metal shop. I also included a removable aluminum panel to provide easy access to the adjustable rear control arms. The removal panel will be held in place by six 1/4 turn fasteners.
Sorry about the photo quality - theres not much room in there to take pictures........

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242273184.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242273258.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242273306.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242273359.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242273504.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242273534.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242273582.jpg

As you can see - I decided to drill and plug weld the panels in place. This was to help prevent buckling of the panels due to the heat from the welding.

Next step will be to clean up the welds, seam seal and undercoat the new panels and torsion tube.

Richard.

While working on the rear seat panels the suspension components where sent out to "Half Baked Powder Coating" in WI. They did a real nice job and turned the parts around in less then a week.

Rear control arms where done in silver
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242274669.jpg

Front A -arms in yellow and cross member in silver
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242274715.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242274947.jpg

The front suspension upgrades consist of ERP PolyBronze bushings and low friction control arm mounts, new OEM ball joints, Rennline strut brace and monoballs, Tarret sway bar, RSR coilover struts with Rebel Racing spring kitand bump steer kit.

While the welds were cooling down on the rear seat panels I assembled the main front suspension components.;)

Overall I was really impressed with the quality of the ERP components. They were surprisingly easy to install and the instructions where excellent.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242275738.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242275797.jpg

The Tarret sway bar was also very high quality and came with all of the hardware needed to install. Drilling the holes through the tub took a little bit of work - measure twice, drill once - and other then welding the U tab onto the front control arms, is an easy job for anyone with basic mechanical skills and a cordless drill.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242275834.jpg

The Rennline strut brace was purchased from a fellow pelican (Milt) and was virtually brand new.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242276022.jpg

And finally the RSR struts with lowered spindles and Rebel Racing spring kit - pure mechanical porn
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242276045.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1242276089.jpg

With the front suspension in place, I will be moving onto the G50 Pedal assembly and brake master cylinder conversion next.
Richard.

Beautiful work and components!

Damn nice work. What are your spring rates?

To start with I have 250's for the front and 550's for the rear. Clint from Rebel suggested that this would be a good all round set-up for street and the occasional DE / track use.

Richard.

Thanks Rich

I assume you deleted your front and rear torsions? What rear shock tower reinforcement are you doing? Standard RSR?

Richard, very nice build. Subscribed. Simple question for you... What are you using in place of (the painted piece with PORSCHE) your rear reflector? I have a track car that is an IROC clone of sorts and lost my reflector at the track. I want to fabricate something like you have since that looks a lot like they did it back in the IROC series. I am going to be drilling it also to mount the rubber hold down straps. I am not too keen on these spendy rear reflectors for a track car.

juicersr - the torsion bars have been removed front and rear. At this stage I am not planning any changes to the rear shock towers. I also have an IA built 930 that has coil overs (my wifes car) that have been on there for many miles with no problems. I guess it is a bit of a risk but as the car is a street car with mild track plans, I don't think there will be any problems.


t6dpilot - thanks for the compliments. The rear reflector replacement was done by the PO. From what I understood they formed the reflector panel out of a piece of aluminum, screwed it in place and then cleaned up the edges with some bondo. I will try to post some more detailed photos of it for you - although you cannot see too much.

How did you get the hubs so clean?... Bead blasting???

Great car BTW...

Richard MAN YOUR FAB SKILLS are awesome. Very cool project loving the thread keep it going!!

JW

form following function. looks to be a great car when you get finished.

Peter - the hubs came as part of an adapter kit for the 996TT brakes. I purchased the kit from Instant G and they told me that the hubs were bead blasted. they were clean and dry when they arrived. BTW - I am originally from OZ, grew up in the country west of Melbourne and have spent quite a lot of time in Mt Gambier and Robe SA.

JW and Shane - thanks for the compliments.

I spent most of winter deciding how to cut and splice all of this together. I also think that seeing how others had done this, from other posts, also helped a lot. I purchased a Miller 180 MIG welder with Autoset for this project. This is a wonderful piece of equipment for this sort of project. The Autoset feature makes it a real "point and squirt" welder - it makes any amateur look good.