I have had a work induced break from the RSR rebuild, but managed to get some work done on the weekend.

I have received several questions regarding the rear reflector replacement panel and promised to post some pics - here they are:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1243399157.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1243399185.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1243399221.jpg

All that I know is the PO had the panel fabbed up out of some formed Aluminum. It seems like there is quite a bit of interest in the reflector panels if someone could manufacture a quality fiberglass/carbon fiber replacement panel?

Richard.

Widebody911 made a run of a few...here's what a raw carbon one looks like:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1243401443.jpg

One of the challenges with converting a earlier car to a G50 g/box is converting from a cable to a hydraulic clutch. I did a bit of research into this and decided that the easiest and cleanest way to go was to install the pedal assembly and brake booster from a later model G50 car. With all of the parts required parts supplied in the conversion kit from Kaefer this was a straight forward update.

The original brake booster
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1243400697.jpg

G50 Brake booster
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1243400780.jpg

The G50 pedal assembly bolted in place (with the SPARCO pedals mounted)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1243400854.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1243400933.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1243400959.jpg

I was surprised at how easy this turned out to be. All of the G50 parts bolted straight in. The only modification required was to drill a hole to feed the line from the brake reservoir down to the clutch M/C. Everything else bolted right into place - too easy.

Richard

Thanks Reaper - just goes to show that there isn't too much on these 911's that hasn't been reproduced, updated or upgraded - gotta be impressed with the imagination of the faithful.

Richard.

just awesome..........great job

Hi guys, its been a while since my last update, never-the-less I have been making some progress.

Painting of the rear seat delete.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1246250485.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1246250520.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1246251209.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1246251267.jpg

2nd Fuel pump (Bosch 044) and lines fitted. I isolated the pump to keep the noise down :rolleyes:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1246250600.jpg

Richard.

Richard-

Superb work as ever.

Did you "just" spot weld the rear shelf piece in, or did you mig/tig the seams for a continuous bead?

Keep up the great work!

Glenn

Thanks for the compliments Glenn. I drilled one side of the rear panels and plug / spot welded them on all of the lap joints. I did this to minimize distortion. Then I welded the seams, cleaned them up with the grinder and sealed it all off with some Eastwood's seam sealer.

Richard.

Richard,
Is there a reason you chose to mount the pump in the rear rather than upfront near the front cross member? I've heard (and applied the information myself) that those pumps are better at pushing than pulling. If you mount low on the cross member, gravity does most of the work to feed the pump from the tank.

Overall excellent work! Please don't take my comments as any type of criticism.

Doug

doug, he has two pumps. The first one is up front and feeding the second one pictured. This is how porsche did it with the turbo cars. Nothing wrong with the install

nice car

Richard: I have not gone thru the whole thread, but what have you done to reinforce the center section of the torsion tube to the chassis? I recommend some additional bracing between the tube and the tub so there is less rotational force on the current welds

Ahhhh!, I missed that detail! more excellent work then!

Thanks,

Doug

pics from Jack's car for reference...




One of the things I notice on the camber boxes is that there is no perch on the top for the extended adjustment bolt. I'm not sure if it serves a functional purpose other than to allow adjustment from inside the passenger compartment without having to reach under the access panel, but I just figured I'd mention it. It might be a nice thing to have so you wouldn't have to put your hands around a hot gearbox at the track, etc.. Another pic from Jack's car....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...ndWhistles.jpg

Coming in late on this.... sorry.....

As to the "thru-the-body" front anti-roll bar......if you didn't do it already....suggest a massive reinforcement of the mounting point ( 3 bolts ?) where the bar pokes thru the body. Think along the lines of a substantially thick backing plate where the 3 bolts go thru....not only in thickness but perhaps a bit larger in surface area too...welded in place. The 3 bolts will take a lot of rotationally-induced torque load....sometimes ripping out the body sheet metal in the process. I guess it would also be more valid if you run the front anti-roll bar really stiff....with a very small ( short) moment arm location.

On that same pic ( #30), consider using a rubber-accordian "booty" to act as the upper shock protective tube of a normal shock...the metal stock upper tube will likely no longer fit by being too big in diameter...but you may want some weather protection.

Also...in that text...I'm sure you meant "raised" not "lowered" spindles....raising would lower the car and maintain geometry.

Don't think of me as the crummudgeon...but the double tabs locating the drop link to the front anti-sway bars look to be a bit "thin" in section thickness....what do you think?

Hey....just tryin to help you re-engineer on the run..sorry..... :)

Doug - Tre Cup guessed it right. The pump in the pictrue is the 2nd pump. I also have another 044 pump mounted up front in the original location.

Tre Cup - I didn't do anything special to restrain the rotational forces on the torsion tube. Luckily when I received the torsion tube from the donar car it still had the floor section where it joins to the center tunnel. This allowed me to reinstall it exactly how it was done in the factory - welding the two brackets on the front of the torsion tube into the floor / tunnel section. Whilst this would help with some of the rotational forces, it is obviously not as good as what you did to Jack's car. On the camber boxes I have the same adjusters that extend vertically up from the camber boxes - they are just not installed for the photos.

Wil - I didn't reinforce the mounting locations for the front torsion bar, however your suggestion makes sense. As the fuel tank is still out it would be an easy addition to put a reinforcing plate on the inside of the panel. With regard to the bellows - sounds like a good idea, I will have to look into what is available. For the struts - raised is correct - raise the spindle to lower the ride hight. The A-arm tabs came in the sway bar kit. Overall they are quite short and bolted firmly to the rod-end, which will form a box section. I don't think that there will be any problems.

Thanks for all of the feedback and suggestions - this is the true value of this forum.
Richard.

It been quite a while since I provided an update.

Next on the list is to finalize the read suspension. This build list for the rear end consists of:
- Standard 911 SC rear banana arms - 930 arms where just too expensive. Powder coated silver and fitted with new wheel bearings.
- ERP sealed Monoball pivots
- Rebel Racing / bilsein rear coilovers
- Rebel racing spring kit with 550lb springs
- Rebel racing 935 spring plate kit
- 996TT rear brakes - IG adaptor kit.

Banana arms after powder coating
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1252160945.jpg

The hardest thing about installing the monoballs was removing the old rubber bushing - without a press. Following a fair amount of hammering the old bushings were out and the new one went in without too much effort.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1252160726.jpg

I needed to trim the old caliper mounting ears on the banana arm to provide some clearance for the new radial mounts of the 996TT brake adaptors. Showing the mock up on the bench.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1252161121.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1252161273.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1252161311.jpg

With the Rebel 935 spring plate installed
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1252161408.jpg

Cleaning up the the inside end of the torsion tubes
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1252161680.jpg

With the 935 spring plate in place.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1252161746.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1252161815.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1252161845.jpg

Rear suspension - continued
 

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1252161927.jpg

One small issue when adapting the 996TT brakes to the standard E-brake is the pad hangs out the back of the E-brake drum by about 5mm. There is still plenty of engagement of the rest of the pad in the drum - therefore I don't think that this will be a problem.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1252161956.jpg

An back down on the floor.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1252162152.jpg

Richard.

Looks great! There is a brake disk extender available for the e-brake drum in rotor. Requires drilling and tapping the rotor (ask me how I know...). Does not seem worth the effort but just so you know...

(curmudgeon hat on) Not a fan of the spacer with embedded studs approach. Since you have/had everything apart, 100mm studs are an easy install on the rear hubs. You are doing everything else so well I had to note this. (curmudgeon hat off)

Major wood. Great pix and documentation.

That RR 935 set-up is what i need to make my 934 just about perfect.

Any progress on the motor?

Its been a while since I gave an update. Things have been progressing - very slowly. A few months ago I realized that I wasn't going to get the engine completed before winter hits the mid-west so I decided to expand the scope a little. The engine bay looked in need of some TLC so I decided to strip off the old paint to give it a cleaner look - plan is to paint it yellow to match the exterior. Stripping the rubber undercoat is not a job for the faint hearted - that rubber undercoating is a real pain to remove.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1257049197.jpg

After I stripped the engine bay I also decided to brace up the rear shock mounts - it was definitely one of those "while I am there moments".

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1257049511.jpg

I used 1" tube across the top and some 14 gauge steel sheet for the webs. On the sides I welded some 1/8" x 1 1/2" flat to the wheel wells before attaching the tube. I need to do a bit more cleaning up before I paint it.

great job, patience pays........at least thats what they say.