Congratulations.

Very nice job!!!!!!

Its been a while since I updated this thread so here is what I have been up to during the long cold mid-west winter.
The PO had fitted a front mounted oil cooler behind the RSR spoiler - however I thought that it would be a good idea to fit a TRE air duct to the front of the tub to improve the air flow and oil cooling capacity. This lead to me digging around near the front suspension pan - and look what I found:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268459438.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268459582.jpg

So after a good number of hours researching on this forum I decided to get stuck into replacing the suspension pan and tank support. Before removing the pan I took a number of measurements from a reference mark on the chassis (center punch mark) to the front suspension mount bolts.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268459726.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268459809.jpg

After the new panel arrived I went about fitting them. This is not a job for the faint hearted............

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268460127.jpg

I ended up having to remove the front suspension mounts from the pan to get them back into alignment with the measurements that i had previously taken.

Welding the new pan in is fairly straight forward - you just need patience and a steady hand.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268460625.jpg

After fitting the suspension pan I then cut the front out of the tub to fit the oil cooler duct. This requires a fair amount of massaging to make it fit.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268461018.jpg

I installed the small reinforcement brackets on the front suspension mounts and painted the inside of the suspension pan before I welded on the fuel tank support.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268461180.jpg

I then installed the fuel tan support

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268461334.jpg

Good move bracing the rear shock mounts; I've seen coil-over-conversion cars tear those suckers right out.

Nice work.

After I finshed welding all of the pan in place I fabricated some brackets for the front oil cooler. I decided to mount the cooler on a slight angle to improve airflow and fit the cooler inside the front spoiler.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268461764.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268461812.jpg

And then the "while you are there" moment occurred and I decided to fit a fuel cell instead of reinstalling the original tank. In order to do this I decided to close in the opening in the bottom of the front trunk area. To close it in I I formed up a piece of sheet steel to close in the "hump" at the rear of the opening and hammer formed a flange using the edge of the front suspension pan opening.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268462277.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268462310.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268462393.jpg

I then cut and formed a cover plate to fill in the opening out a 20 gauge sheet.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268462479.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268462606.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268462642.jpg

Frame for fuel cell.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268462818.jpg

And with fuel cell fitted.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268462882.jpg


The Fuel Cell - I decided to go with a Aeromotive 15 Gal fuel aluminum cell that has an A1000 pump fitted inside the cell. Reasonably priced and fairly good quality overall.

All of the work on the front took most of winter and after spending so much time working on the front all I can say is "I am glad I invested in the mid-rise lift". It would have been really nasty trying to do this job on jack / stands.

Richard.

I decided that I would do some of the engine assembly while working on the front suspension pan - to allow the bruising on my knees to settle down. Here is a "brief" description of the engine:
- 930 base engine
- New 3.4L (98mm) Mahle P&C's, flame ringed
- New Carrillo Con Rods
- New GT3 Oil pump
- AASCO Twin Plugged heads, ported with new valves, Web springs & titanium retainers
- New Porsche Motorsport Super Cup cams
- New Twin K24/14 Turbo Chargers, balanced and blueprinted, hot side thermal coating
- Custom headers
- Twin O2 sensors
- Griffin full bay intercooler - dual BOV's
- 993 TT Inlet manifold with custom injector risers
- Cam Sync Senor & Crank position Sensor
- New bearings, bolts, gaskets etc.

I bought the engine "unassembled" (this is a story onto itself) and decided to assemble it myself. I spent a considerable amount of time cleaning and preparing to seal the cases together.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268464462.jpg


After getting the case sealed up and installing all of the pistons and cylinders, I noticed very slight knocking when turning the motor over by hand. After checking and double checking everything, I didn't have any other option but to start to disassemble short block and try to track down the source. Finally after getting it pulled right down to virtually where I began, I found that the carrillo con rods were "rubbing" on the oil pump :eek:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268464925.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268464954.jpg

So I removed the oil pump and machined bigger relief's for the con-rods

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268465137.jpg

Assembling the cases seemed to go a lot quicker - the second time around and the rest of the short block assembly went smoothly.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268465331.jpg

Dialling in the cams

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268465462.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268465526.jpg

And then - this is where the real fun begins:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268465647.jpg

Richard.

Richard,

Very cool. Keep up the great work! I'm looking forward to seeing the car back on the ground with it's new powerplant!

nice work what kind of tires are those?

Superb work, was wondering what u had been up to!

Question about fuel pump: Are u using a 'fuel pump controller' to regulate the fuel flow under light load conditions? Or by mounting the pump in the tank, are u negating the need for this, as the fuel pump will remain cool at all times? There was a discussion on the turbo board about this when running the A1000 pump in particular instead of two Bosch 44 pumps. Thanks

Nice work some of your suspension upgrades are on my list for the next round.

torsion tube.
 

Motley,

you may still have to modify your G50 torsion tube. We had a tough time getting a shortened G50 and engine to locate in the correct spot w/o doing some further cutting. You can get the motor/transmission to fit but the engine is forced back about 1/2-1 inch. The rear motor carrier will flex to "fit" but it's not ideal. I posted a couple of pics on the 930 board of our solution. We modified the chassis a bit more (915 torsion tube) and the transmission carrier to move the package forward. Instead of modifying the transmission mount I would recommend just buying the mounting bracket that Patrick Motorsports sells. It has precut slotted bolt holes so you can slide the transmission into the optimal spot. I think it's $200, made out of steel w/ stock chassis mounts. Will save you time and or money.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-930-turbo-super-charging-forum/529504-what-best-tranny-use-these-exotic-builds-2.html

great build wish I had your skills/balls and garage space!

trans mount
 

Scott - thank for the encouragement. This project is taking considerably more time then expected.

RichF - the tires are Yokohama Advan 032's - 315's in the rear and 275's up front

Juicersr - yes I plan on running a pump controller - although I am looking at controlling the pump volage off an analog output from the Haltech ECU. I still have some work to do to make this work. Even though the pump is in the tank I am still concerned about running so much fuel over the pressure reducing valve. The pump controller seems like an easy solution.

Kojo911 - Thanks for the advice and info on the Patrick MS part. I have fitted the engine and gearbox several times now and the rear engine mount bolts line up perfectly - no flexing of the rear cross brace at all. The only adjusting that i need to do was to space the gearbox up ~1/4" to get the shift rod to align with the hole in the tub. The engine sheet metal also fits OK which also surprised me. The only thing that I can think of is that as the gearbox is a G50-50, the diff / crown wheel portion of the gearbox is slightly longer - at least thats my theory.

Richard.

Nice work on the motor - the 3.4 should be super stable to pound out some real big ponies, large slugs on the tt motors have crazy torque but don't last long. You've got a great recipie for some tasty right foot action alright!

You know in Jaws when they say "i think we're gonna need a bigger boat..." well brother - you're gonna need some bigger tires :D

Excellent progress and great to see the little things not being neglected - keep it up and if you need anything let me know.

I would like to hear more about this car?

How is it going?
Where is it at?
Any more Fabrication photos?

:)

Got the motor in yet?

We need more photos.

Len

:)

more please.....SmileWavy

Ratbox:
What's the part number of that NOS filler piece?... 911.301.037.00 ?????

@ Wil Ferch :

hopefully you already what I posted. I deleted because , I see the bulk of people on PP are not into discussing/learning/sharing info. on real RSR/934 type pieces. Just into aftermarket and hotrods.

It's a waste of time posting about things like this here.



syonara - i'm out