Using POR 15 (humorous)

[Zeke]

So, I can't find a long sleeve shirt anywhere but I have like 6 white dress shirts. I don't need no 6 stinkin' dress shirts in 2009. I grab a no-name and put it on before spreading some POR 15.

(The technical purpose of this thread is to remind any newbies about how good this stuff prevents further rusting, like over fresh welds, and how good it sticks to human skin.)



Wouldn't you know it, I got not a drop on the shirt, but did mange to get some on my face and in my hair. Oh well, it helps cover some of the gray.

Yes, I was under the fender wells. I better go check and see if I got it all off my face. Otherwise, I will be wearing and shaving it off.

[Oh Haha]

Funny story but how come no head shot?

I wanna see if you look like your avatar>

[Zeke]

With out the new "Just for Men" treatment.



(No ponytail, but I've got the beak.)

[Oh Haha]

AAAAAAGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHH the horror!!!!!!!!!!!






j/k--

[RWebb]

funny I just got smeared with undercoating yesterday*

I guess great minds DO think alike...



* and so did my motor vehicle

[Zeke]

More "technical" info: the POR distributor told me a long time ago to never open the lid on the can. Take 2 self drilling TEK screws and install them north and south on the lid. When you need some, remove the screws and pour just what you need. You can pour it straight on some panels and spread it with a foam brush. The less transfer, like a tray, and you'll save lots of material.

The can I am using is 3 years old. They usually get hard after 3 months if they've been opened up with the lid off. Moisture in the air is what kicks this stuff off, just like Gorilla Glue.

[jpnovak]

I was working on the targa years ago and used POR15. I had gloves and sleeves and managed to get it under the glove without my knowledge. Two weeks later I went on a job interview. Yep POR was still on my hands in big black splotches. Yes, they asked me about it and I answered truthfully that I was working on the targa.

Good stuff!

Oh yeah, I have cut it out of my hair before.

[Bullet Bob]

I have used the stuff and their metal prep is exceptional as well. Spray it on bare metal and wipe it clean a few minutes later and the metal will still look fresh several months later. For light surface rust it will wipe it right off. The liquid is light blue in color and it literally dissolves rust.

[JohnJL]

Had to cut off leg hair to get some big clumps off.

[jpnovak]

Milt, that is a great tip regarding the screw seals and pouring from the lip. I usually separate a can into several well dried cans of smaller dimention. Then I purge them with Ar from my TIG bottle.

[911boost]

That is a good tip.

I used the smaller can's last time I used it.

Bill

[Chas White]

Don't get it on your glasses, either.

[Bill Verburg]

Originally Posted by milt

More "technical" info: the POR distributor told me a long time ago to never open the lid on the can. Take 2 self drilling TEK screws and install them north and south on the lid. When you need some, remove the screws and pour just what you need. You can pour it straight on some panels and spread it with a foam brush. The less transfer, like a tray, and you'll save lots of material.

The can I am using is 3 years old. They usually get hard after 3 months if they've been opened up with the lid off. Moisture in the air is what kicks this stuff off, just like Gorilla Glue.

another reason is that if there is any POR on the lid/can sealing face you will never get the can open again.

My paint shop supplies me w/ new/unused cans w/ my POR purchases for that eventuality.

[Jagshund]

I just wait until the car's rusty enough to use the entire can at once. Problem solved.

[Zeke]

Originally Posted by Bill Verburg

another reason is that if there is any POR on the lid/can sealing face you will never get the can open again.

My paint shop supplies me w/ new/unused cans w/ my POR purchases for that eventuality.

True dat. I have actually used POR 15 and fiberglass mat as a lay up instead of resin over small rust patches that didn't warrant total removal and welding.

[Green 912]

Originally Posted by milt

More "technical" info: the POR distributor told me a long time ago to never open the lid on the can. Take 2 self drilling TEK screws and install them north and south on the lid. When you need some, remove the screws and pour just what you need. You can pour it straight on some panels and spread it with a foam brush. The less transfer, like a tray, and you'll save lots of material.

The can I am using is 3 years old. They usually get hard after 3 months if they've been opened up with the lid off. Moisture in the air is what kicks this stuff off, just like Gorilla Glue.

I have two holes in a gallon can covered with metal foil tape. The can is well over 10 years old and still good. Never open it up outside or on a humid day or leave it open. Vent pour and seal up. Don't put any back in the can as well.

[kiwiokie]

Placing a piece of ceran wrap between the can and the lid before you seal it works OK too. Just need the presence of mind to tear off the ceran wrap before you get the POR-15 all over your gloves. Cheers, John

[Iowa911]

I pour mine into half pint mason jars. Seems to work pretty well.

[SP2]

But Milt, you can't stir the paint if you use your screw technique. When I start to stir the paint with a wooden stick you can feel how much stuff is at the bottom until you have stirred it up a while.

[Evans, Marv]

When I was going to have the water tank installed after having the well drilled, I gave the driller a can of POR15 and told him I wanted it painted over the welds on the inside (10K gallon tank). They usually just caulk over the welded seams. When I went over to check on the progress, they told me the kid they had given the job to nearly passed out from being in the tank with the fumes & they had to get somebody else in there to finish. I asked if they had used something to vent the tank while the seams were being painted, & he said it really didn't occur to him. What a dunce!