Removing rear seats/ carpeting?

[WILSPEED]

Anyone have advice/feedback about removing the rear seats/carpeting. I have a 911SC car for track use but still drive it on the street. I just recently deleted the rear seats to install harnesses and race buckets and want to remove the rear panel, speakers and carpeting because it's old and tearing already. I don't care much for those aesthetics but noticed that the tub underneath the carpeting has all this glue/junk/foam. The floor mats are gone already. Can you guys think of any problems sanding off the junk underneath the rear carpeting and spray paint it over?

noob question

WILSPEED

[James Brown]

no none go for it I removed mine and purchased a cheap set off ebay and it fits good enough. but there should not be much gunk to remove. try one of those spider web spray jobs like on old Chevy trunks, it hides a lot!

[Mikey83835]

Don't know firsthand, but have heard if you rip out enough "stuff", it starts getting pretty noisy, needing earplugs noisy

[WILSPEED]

Well, I have solid motor mounts already, don't really care about noise as much as the unknown that comes with spray painting parts of the interior... anyone else?

[CMXI]

Wilspeed.

I removed my rear seats and carpeting.
It was pretty easy job but required two cans of glue remover, some scotchbrite and a lot of rubbing.
Used white spirit to clean off the metal afterwards.
Make sure that you are working in a well ventilated area...I was not.
Could se pink elefants and other strange things the whole night!

The soundprofing came out with a firmer chisel and a large flat screwdriver.
I worked on the car at about 10 degrees celcius (50 f) and did not need any heating.
Everything came out in big chunks.

Added some rust protection paint just to be safe!

End result, ready for roll cage install.



Next job is to install new carpets and doorpanels.
A local shop are going to build a custom interior including doorpanels in RS style.

//Hansson

[WILSPEED]

CMXI

Wow that looks really clean! I noticed that you have eye bolts on the rear seat area, no plans for a harness bar integrated on your cage? Plus, did you ever consider just painting the interior black and going without carpeting? I'm assuming that the picture is from your track car.

[CMXI]

Originally Posted by WILSPEED

CMXI

Wow that looks really clean! I noticed that you have eye bolts on the rear seat area, no plans for a harness bar integrated on your cage? Plus, did you ever consider just painting the interior black and going without carpeting? I'm assuming that the picture is from your track car.

Yes the pictures is from the track day car.

The eye bolts as mounted just for testing the harness.
I am not allowed to weld in a harness bar to the rollcage due to its certification so i plan to mount the the eye bolts in the rear seat backrest instead to get a better angle.

The first plan was to paint the interior black, but i got a great deal for the carpets and door panels (750USD) including installation, so i decided to go with carpets for a cleaner look. I also plan to add a thin sound scilencer in the back to keep the noice level down.
It will be loud enough, belive me!

It will be black carpets, black doorpanels, black or red rollcage, black seats and red belts.


//Patrick Hansson

[James Brown]

sounds great! l used stereo sound deading pads (dynamat) that did a good job of soundproofing under the carpet.

[nineball]

not to dump on you JB but if possible stay away from normal dynamat. it is an asphalt-based product. dynamat xtreme or second skin damplifier / damp pro is the way to go. they are butyl-based products and far superior to original dynamat, rammat, fatmat, etc.

[James Brown]

in what way Nineball? is it harmfull? I like asphalt, and it's quiet! I would go with the cheapsest stuff

[nineball]

hehe no it's not harmful just outdated technology. taken from the ssa page..

Traditional noise mats are mostly inefficient mass loaders; heavy & foul smelling tar boards that work by adding weight to the cars metal to quiet it down. This technology is over 50 years old, and for some reasons, is still being promoted by many of our competitors.

Damplifier / Damplifier Pro is not a mass loader or a heavy tar board. It is a constraint layer viscoelastic damper that converts the vibrational energy in to low level heat. This conversion of energy makes it 300% more efficient than traditional mass loading tar boards and asphalt mats while weighing half as much!

it is also much easier to apply, has a better adhesion rating and there is no smell.


if you wanted to go with the cheapest stuff you can go to home depot and buy a roll off Peel 'n Seal. it's roofing material but basically the same thing as original dynamat or any other asphalt-based product.

[RWebb]

Originally Posted by nineball

... normal dynamat... is an asphalt-based product. ...

sure that's true??

IIRC, it is a butyl product.

I agree that dynamat xtreme is much better.

[80-911SC]

get a can of roll in bed liner i think sold under HERCULINER or check Eastwood they have there own and i have seen it tinted looks good , durable , has sound deadining quality. just my .02 cents

[RWebb]

bed liner is about the LAST thing I'd use on a sports car to deaden sound

[80-911SC]

excuse the fffffffffffffff from me by giving the gentleman a suggestion that i didn't clear with the purist patrol. i am sure you have something RICEY or TACKEY or GOASHE in someone else's opinion.

What a minute all i did is give a suggestion that was asked for by the posting, your response is the LAST thing needed you didn't suggest a thing or add anything to the post other than you opinion of an opinion.

[efhughes3]

Just carpet with Perlon and call it a day. It's not that loud back there.

[nineball]

Originally Posted by RWebb

sure that's true??

IIRC, it is a butyl product.

I agree that dynamat xtreme is much better.

Nope, original is not butyl and yes they are quite different in abilities.

http://www.dynamat.com/technical_specs_dynamat_original.html

Dynamat Original is a styrene-butyadine-rubber- based, pressure-sensitive adhesive-backed, heat bondable vibrational damper.

Adhesive Peel Strength (Bond strength):

8.6 lbs/inch (15N/cm) on cold steel


http://www.dynamat.com/technical_specs_dynamat_xtreme.html

Dynamat Xtreme is a patented, lightweight elastomeric butyl and aluminum constrained-layer vibrational damper.

Adhesive Peel Strength (Bond strength):

42.6 lbs/inch (74.8N/cm) on cold steel

[RWebb]

ok, but "styrene-butyadine-rubber- based" is certainly not ashphalt (which I agree is best avoided).

[RWebb]

Originally Posted by 80-911SC

excuse the fffffffffffffff from me by giving the gentleman a suggestion that i didn't clear with the purist patrol. i am sure you have something RICEY or TACKEY or GOASHE in someone else's opinion.

What a minute all i did is give a suggestion that was asked for by the posting, your response is the LAST thing needed you didn't suggest a thing or add anything to the post other than you opinion of an opinion.

calm down and grow up

this has nothing to do with looks

bed liner is simply not a goog sound dampener - you can use it on the outside of your VW Bus if you want (I may do that)

I apologize if a technical issue has punctured your ego.

[nineball]

be careful how you read their descriptions

"styrene-butyadine-rubber- based" is not the entire product. the bulk of it is made from asphalt. that is why there is such a discrepancy between their abilities.

i wish http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/ was still what it used to be. he compared every product on the market side by side, complete with chemical breakdowns, and showed what each could really do. they now make their own products so the showdown is gone.