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1980SCMan
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 398
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Brake Master Cyl. Problem/Question
1980 911 SC. Master Cyl. reservoir drained. The brake hose that feeds the master cyl. is wet at the base. I used a hose clamp to pinch it off, but the fluid still drains from that spot. I suspect that the grommet or feeder neck is compromised.
Is this as easy as it looks? You pull the neck and the grommet and replace the grommet and fill and bleed and that's it? Is there more? This looks like an easy job once I remove enough stuff to get good access and the master cyl. doesn't have to come out. Is that right? Next question - what is the best way to clean up all the brake fluid (two full reservoirs) that have drained straight down on to my old carpets and is now soaking the kickboard and floorboards? |
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Registered
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those grommets are an exercise in ZEN mastery. there are two schools of thought; one, put the grommet on the hose ends and jab them in together, or install the grommets on to the MC and then stick the hose end in from there. i use method two.
it isnt impossible, but one of my least favorite jobs...grunt with your diaphram, you will need to harness your innner "chi".
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poof! gone |
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AutoBahned
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rags
throw the carpet in the hazardous waste you cannot just throw anything contaminated with brake fluid in the trash -- a major no-no brake fluid is an excellent paint remover, so you will be cleaning (brake clean); priming & painting for a while be careful with the exterior paint! |
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Registered
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Palos Verdes, CA
Posts: 517
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Quote:
My friend, I am asian and even I dont have the "Kung Fu Grip" required to install the hard aluminum lines with the fluted bottoms properly while the Master cylinder is still mounted undercar. Here is what I recommend to save you time and agony as long as your setup is simlar to a 74 911: * After you get the car up on jacks and it is secure remove the belly pan, unhook lines to Master cylinder and remove unit. * Detach brake fluid lines from reservior and thread them though and remove from bottom. * Inspect Master cylinder, clean and replace old grommets. Lubricate top of rubber grommets with brake fluid, then pus the hard fluted lines in to grommets until they seat snugly. * Thread brakelines back through bottom and back up to reservor and re-attach. After you bleed the calipers check the top of the two grommets with your fingers to see if fluid seeps/weeps to the top of the rubber grommet as they should be dry as the desert. Also look for other other areas that may be weeping fluid. When you remove the brak cylinder it is a good time to also pull your pedal cluster out and inspect the assembly and surrounding sheet metal for rust. Also allow you to clean that area up as well. Good luck!
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M-74 |
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1980SCMan
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 398
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My hard lines don't show any leaking - just the front grommet. So I intend to relpace both grommets and both necks and the soft lines that connect them between the reservoir and the master cyl. That shouldn't require removing the master, should it? Is it that hard to get the grommets in? And the master on an 80SC is topside, just below the hood. Has some air ducting around it that will need to be removed for better access.
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Registered
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You can try it with the M/C still on the car but, in the end, what AshEvans (and I) are saying is that it's easier to pull out the M/C and feeder lines and re-seat those fluted tubes/grommets on your workbench. The alternative is that you will have to do it laying on your back with zero leverage and limited line-of-sight.
I fought for 2 hours trying to to do it under the car. Once I decided to take the M/C out, I was bleeding brakes in 30 minutes. Ash's instructions are spot on. Also, if you actually have an extra set of those fluted tubes, great! From what I gather, they are rather pricey. Be forewarned that those tubes are not indestructible. And FWIW, a new M/C is inexpensive and comes with new grommets. |
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Capistrano Beach, Ca.
Posts: 7,235
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Your MC is in the trunk so you do not have the access problems mentioned by AshEvan (Hi, Mark!) and tharbert but don't disregard the procedures and suggestions described. Even with the MC in the trunk, you may find better leverage and access to the repair by removing and doing the work on the bench. You still have to do a complete brake bleed and clean up, regardless. It's your call.
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L.J. Recovering Porsche-holic Gave up trying to stay clean Stabilized on a Pelican I.V. drip |
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Marietta, Ga (Atlanta)
Posts: 2,970
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Quote:
I think you're missing the point. He says he has an '80SC, that means power brakes! Obviously no "laying under the car" for an MC fix! Just reaching behind the power brake booster, and contorting you hands to get the job done!
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'80SC Widebody 3.6 transplant Anthracite "The Rocket" Long gone but still miss them all: '77 911 Targa, '72 BMW 3.0CS Coupe(finest car I ever had!) '71 911T Coupe White, '70 911T Coupe Blue '68 911 Coupe Orange, '68 911L Soft Window Targa |
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Registered
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Palos Verdes, CA
Posts: 517
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You are right regarding access, but I did qualify that what I suggested was for a 74 as I did not know what year his 911 was. His install is much easier as long as the fluted lines can be seated properly. May still need "Kung Fu Grip" regardless HA HA HA
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M-74 |
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