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definitely a save vote from me , light weight is an option , but either way enjoy it , thats what it was built to be ... enjoyed
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DP935 member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 3,044
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No way I would part that car. Take your time and fix it at your own speed. It is really rewarding also. You will know the car inside and out and be much happier.
Good luck.
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Porsche Slantnose M505 M506 group on Facebook. https://www.facebook.com/groups/719995181372494/ |
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 356
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I have to say I’m with the “think carefully before you restore” crowd.
I agree with the sentiment that pretty much anything you need to do with the car (outside of engine machine shop work) is well within your ability to learn it and do it. I just recently completed a suspension pan replacement and previously painted my 944 project to what I truly feel is a very high standard. I possess no great skills and experience. It just took patience and time... a LOT of time. And there is the rub, and what makes this different for everyone. I myself have long ago concluded I should have spent more money on a 911 up front and be doing less work now. Like most of you I have a demanding job which I spend too many hours at and a young family. Almost all of my work on the cars is done between 5:00 and 6:00 am on weekdays (some weekdays). I literally have no time otherwise. As such, things that others might bang out in a weekend take me months. The suspension pan repair took at least two months for instance. My 944 project (a ground up restoration) was started in 2004 and although looking really good, is still a fair piece from being done (and that was a very solid car to begin with - no rust or body damage etc). I bought the 911 so I could actually drive ![]() So, the questions to ask yourself (IMO) are: 1) How happy am I to engage in a long duration project where I will not be driving the car? 2) What was I really looking for when I bought this car? A hobby car or a car to drive? 3) How much time can I really spend on a project? If it is a few hours a week, then I would say this project will take a very long time. 4) How does my ability to spend compare with a preliminary budget of what this will cost to do (you can find prices for sheet metal from various vendors, look at decent MIG machines etc. Also consider if you will do the paint yourself or not. Even doing it yourself is expensive (high-end paint supplies, good spray guns, good breathing protection – e.g. remote fresh air supply system etc. – it adds up). I would not really want to drive it without knowing the true condition of the structural sheet metal. The cover up seems to have been well done, so it is hard to know how safe the car really is. For example, if the torsion tube is seriously corroded, then this can fail, which depending how fast you are travelling could have serious consequences. Only after doing a rational analysis of your situation, can a logical decision be made. Whoever it was that did this to the car… I have to wonder, what really went through their mind? Did they actually think they were doing a good repair, or were they intentionally doing a cover-up job? I completely agree that adding all that muck onto the body hugely complicates any attempt a proper repair. Last edited by 500_19B; 10-09-2009 at 07:46 AM.. |
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Well said amjf088 and on point. I know Sean and know he bought this car to drive and fix/restore/modify as time went on. He now sees that there is a lot more work to do than he originally thought and i'm sure feels a bit overwhelmed with it. He races with me (SC's in the same class) so he gets a good "Porsche" fix between that an DE's. Now he just has to decide IF he wants to invest the time in the car. I have no doubt that the car should be restored, but that's me. He has a job, young family, and most likely a lot of demands for his time. If he wants out i'm sure there are many that would love this car to bring back. It's all aesthetics really, the pan is done, floor is solid, suspension good, engine/trans good.
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Gary R. |
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Westchester, NY
Posts: 889
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Thanks for all the replies, I've decided to keep the baby.
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Floor pans are not as bad as they look. Mostly surface rust.
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Sean 1982 SC D-Stock #372 NASA GTS2 1971T restoration in progress, read about it here: http://911restorationmadness.blogspot.com/ |
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Happiest when Tinkering
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Missouri
Posts: 4,555
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Early cars are going up in value the closer to original they are, I say fix it right or dont fix it at all. You will have a prize if you do fix it.
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" Porsche there is no substitute" I always liked that saying. Air cooled is the only way to go! 76 911 C.R.A.P. Gruppe #2 BIG time TURBO C.R.A.P. Bitz EFI/EDIS Now MegaSquirt 3 76 Blazer also restored by me |
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VINTAGE RALLY material! Drive the snot out of it in the winter. Pile on the bondo! Don't spend money on the body but do on mechanical bits. That way you'll have good mechanicals to put on that desert rescue tub you'll find some day.
Dan |
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300hp 1800lbs is the goal
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Sounds like my $500 '66. 1/2" of bondo all the way down the rockers (there was no metal behind it) Passenger fender was welded onto the frame to hide the hole in the strut tower, that they filled in with bondo, and then went crazy with the undercoat... Car looked pretty good.... till I started stripping it
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The '66 912 Bastardization project has begun. Note to PO's: LAY OFF THE FREAKING BONDO!!!! The science was settled: Earth was flat. Galileo : Flat Earth denier. ![]() |
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