Oil level sensor installation

67targa · 67targa's Garage

It is Saturday, and my 67 and I are spending some quality time together, finally.
Here is my question.
My oil tank does not have a oil level sensor, though the wiring is there based on a 67 wiring diagram. It must plug in elsewhere. Hollywood speedo is reworking the gage to include the indicator but now for the sensor installation. I bought one from ******** and it corresponds with a depression on the oil tank. Based on photos that I have found on this site I see there are hex bolts and a gasket to secure the sensor but what of the 6 fasteners (nuts)? and can I blind bore the
1"+ hole?? I need the Pelican advisement before I open Pandora's bow, I mean TANK.
Thanks

moneymanager · 11-07-2009, 02:44 PM

I can't imagine doing this job without removing the tank. And I'm not sure how you are ever going to secure the studs that hold the sensor plate even with everything on a bench. Have you looked at the feasibility of swapping your tank for a later one with the holes and studs in place? If mounts etc are identical, it might be a whole lot easier. FWIW

67targa · 67targa's Garage

The tank was removed a few years ago for a total resto top to bottom. I am reassembling

DW SD · 11-07-2009, 02:54 PM

Can you source another tank? Seems MUCH easier. the bolts are actually studs attached to the tank. The nuts are standard nylocs. I forget the size, maybe M4 or M5.

I think you'd have to drill the holes and tack weld the studs to some sort of backing plate.

On second thought.......if you wanted to use your tank, maybe you'd be better off cutting a large circle out of a donor thank surrounding the sensor studs (give it + 2" diameter and weld that into your current tank. You'd still have to locate it so the sensor works properly, which might be no small feat.

Doug

moneymanager · 11-07-2009, 02:58 PM

Well that will help a lot. Still, placing those studs (in a deliberately irregular pattern) is going to be a real task I think. Maybe you can somehow just run the proper size bolts in from the inside and tack them in place. I've never had the tank out so don't know what kind of access to the interior you may have.

Flat6pac · 11-07-2009, 04:44 PM

Years ago at the swap meets there would be new tanks without holes for the guage. I took a bad tank and sawed out the bolt area on both tanks and marking the top bolt so I could weld the part back in.
It worked and you can get the parts from a damaged tank for cheap.
Bruce

67targa · 67targa's Garage

I took the jump, heck its not like I tore apart an engine on a whim or anything.
Anyway what I found is not as daunting as I thought. There is a screen inside that I assume is to prevent the oil from sloshing around and it is free floating. I believe it was tacked in but 40+ years later it isn't now!

So how to tack nylon nuts inside? I am going to mock up a piece of metal(whatever can be tacked to copper, need to do the research) with an ID of 1 5/8" and a 3 1/2" OD. Then once the nuts are tacked I will cut the metal perpendicular to thre ID and OD. Then I will thread the piece through the hole that I cut into the tank. I can clamp it in and tack it to the tank with 3 or 4 tacks along the inside edge.

What do you think?

67targa · 67targa's Garage

Ok done! I found a rivit with a female thread I am going to pick up 5 from a local shop. Once rivided to the tank a rubber gasket and we are good to go. What would be the best chemical to wash the inside with to completely clean it out.

Flat6pac · 11-08-2009, 06:03 PM

The copper is just a coating over steel.
Bruce

James Brown · James Brown's Garage

why on earth would anyone want to do this to a non leaking tank baffles me. Add this to the fact that the oil quantity system is worthless and it hurts my head. If you must, why not epoxy a sender to the tank? Hell, you can have mine, used the gage opening for a volt meter, something useful! Don't use the gage to accurately tell you when to put oil into your engine you might be disappointed. I check mine every 3 days after I get home from work at the same place on the driveway and always well warmed up and idling in neutral with the lights/ac off.

67targa · 67targa's Garage

I did not know that they were unreliable. Do the rest of you concur? I can seal it up and sell the sensor etc. I am simply trying to have as much info about the engine as possible and put some S flavor into this restoration.

Mitch Leland · Mitch Leland's Garage

Targa Man,

You could take make up a steel donut ring of .060", drill holes per layout of the sending unit in the ring, drill the corresponding holes in the tank, cut the donut ring in half so you can insert through the sending unit hole. The use a flush rivets to attach the ring to the inside of the tank. Now you have permanent studs protruding through the tank wall.

The only thing I haven't looked at is whether there's a flat surface on the face of the oil tank which is the same diameter as the sending unit.

daepp · 11-09-2009, 09:34 AM

Once you learn how yours works, it gives you a pretty good idea when you need to add a quart.

However, I don't think they're comparable car to car.

67targa · 67targa's Garage

To the future country of Texas!
There is a flat area where a sensor could be placed. I suppose that it is a generic stamping. Also you description is exactly what I will do thank you. I love your country and its people. My am planning a second trip there to consider an area to relocate to. I saw a bumper sticker that read "I am a Texan who was born in the wrong state". But the real question is,, what is the size of the P community?

Mitch Leland · Mitch Leland's Garage

Targa Man,

Texas has a lot of "P" cars, but Texas is a big place and you might find more cows than Porsches in some areas... Here in Fredericksburg we only have 4 or 5, but in Austin and San Antonio the PCA Club is well represented. The Austin "Hill Country PCA" earlier this summer had over 60 cars on a tour. Also we have a very dedicated DE contingent. So come ahead... Y'all.