HELP! Need source for Nadella U-Joints

[ditch68]

I am guessing this will be a tough find. I have a U-joint going out. The half shafts appear to be fine, the yokes are not damaged. But the joint body itself has excessive play.

Are the joints themselves common at a FLAPS? I am guessing that may be a somewhat "universal" part (pun intended), with the slined halfshafts and yokes being the tough find.

It is a 1965 901 transaxle.

Any experience with this?

Thanks!

Jeff

[Grady Clay]

Jeff,

Yes, those Nadella bearings are very standard U-joint bearings.
We (and everyone else) rebuilt them from day-one.

Critical is the bearing housings in the transmission yoke, the intermediate yoke and the axle. Always replace the four outboard bearings at the same time.

It takes 10 bearings per axle assembly.

Best,
Grady

[ditch68]

Thanks, Grady.

I also see that Pelican has complete Empi stub axle/CV joint assemblies for the early 901. Is this a direct bolt in replacement?

At 70 bucks for the whole thing, I think going CV on the car would be a viable option, considering the more modern advantages of a CV setup.

I suppose I could sell the Nadella stuff and easily cover the upgrade. That is if I don't need new spindles, etc...etc.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=901-332-026-11-M84&catalog_description=Complete%20Axle%20With%20CV%20 Joints%20And%20Boots%2C%20%32%20Per%20Car%2C%20%39 %31%31%2F%39%31%32%20%28%31%39%36%35%2D%36%38%29%2 C%20Each%20

Jeff

[ditch68]

I did some searching, looks like I just need these CVs and axles, and a set of stub axles.

For now, I would like to just replace the bad U-joint in question.

Does anyone have a part number for the bearings?

Thanks!

Jeff

[Grady Clay]

Jeff,

To convert from Nadella axles to Lobro CV joint axles you will need:

Two Lobro axle assemblies, ’67-’68, not later.
Two 6-bolt stub axles with axle bearing seal protectors in place. The LWB ’69 and later stub axle will not fit.
The castle nut and washer are the same.
Two cotter pins for the stub axle.
Two transmission axle flanges. There are two common flanges that don’t interchange. One is for the ‘regular’ differential and the other for the ‘simplified’ differential.
Two transmission axle flange stretch bolts if you have the ‘simplified’ differential. This is the one with the ‘tit’ on the end. An important note: with the ‘simplified’ differential, you must only remove one axle flange at a time – never both. There are also unique transmission axle flanges if a ZF LSD is fitted.
24 CV joint bolts (special 12K grade M8).
24 new M8 Schnorr washers.
12 ‘moon plate’ washers that go under the CV joint bolts.
These CV joints do not use gaskets.


The M8 CV joint bolts are torqued to 33 ft-lbs.
Be sure and re-tighten them after 100 miles and periodically after.
The torque spec for the axle castle nut is 217 ft-lbs. If the cotter pin hole doesn’t align, you can raise the torque up to 253 ft-lbs.

It is useful to take two or three old M8 bolts and cut off the heads. You can taper the headless end slightly and saw a screwdriver slot. Use these as ‘guide pins’ to mount the CV joint to the flange. This will help keep the surfaces and threads grease free.


Search Pelican for images I posted.

Best,
Grady

[ditch68]

Wow, thanks, Grady. According to your sig line, I owe you $25.00.

Sounds like a worthwhile project. I'll start collecting parts. In the interim, I will try to just rebuild the U joint that is bad on the driver's side outboard.

Jeff