newby needs help and/or advise

[bat77]

hi: wish i had found this sight earlier...new to 911 and pelican...made all the mistakes in purchase of car and ended up with a pig with lipstick...less than honest seller and naive buyer...i have learned quite a bit just by reading topics in the forums and now i think i'm ready to form some type of game plan...the car is a 77 coupe sunroof delete...motor is supposed to be 83 3.0...thats my first problem...rear deck lid will not release with the cable pull..is there some other way to release deck lid? where do i check on motor to see what it actually is? i bought a bunch of books from pelican just waiting for their arrival...probably the major problem is this car sat in storage for almost ten years...seller drove it on the trailer i rolled it off...what i need is an approach to seeing what i have and then moving forward from there...sooo open to all opinions, advice, castigation or whatever else you may have to offer...thanks guys!!!

[aigel]

This is a good read for getting the lid open. Note that there are many non-destructive ways, so try the easy stuff first and then work down the list.

Stuck Engine Lid

Good luck,

George

[Johnb911]

If it sat that long and is the original cable it may just need some help.

I would suggest you get a buddy to pull on the cable release and you wiggle the bottom of the panel to see if it will actually release.
There is a tired old spring that is meant to pop it p but it is tired and the lid is heavy.

Try this first.
If it does not work then someone else will come up with a solution.

They always do.

PS.
Welcome
This is the best resource you will ever find.

[snbush67]

If you don't have a buddy handy you can lock the cable in the open position with some vice grips a clamp.

Try pulling straight up on the lid, if that doesn't work try lifting and twisting a bit from each corner. You will get it eventually.

Sometimes you can even push down on it and then pull up real fast ro get it to pop open.

Once you get it open, remove the grill and adjust the cable assembly.

[LWJ]

FYI, besides your current troubles and all the fun you will have with this car.

CONGRATS!

A sunroof delete coupe with a 3.0 is a great car!

Welcome to Pelican. Pics are required.

Larry

[Justin@Athens]

Let us know where you are located if you need assistance too.


Justin

[KNS]

If you haven't found out already, the lid dents very easily, push down on only the first inch or so from the bottom and the corners.

[500_19B]

If your car has a whale tail, then the added weight combined with old struts can certainly help keep the lid from popping up. When I got my car I had to simultaneously pull the release and lift the engine lid.

The car does have the makings of a good one: '77 is a galvanized chassis, the 3.0 SC motors are very solid and a non-sunroof bodyshell is desireable. Look forward to hearing more!

[Winter]

Photos, photos, PHOTOS!

I did the same thing that you did, an impulse buy off of Craig's List. The car had some problems, but once I found this forum I realized that its needs were relatively easily addressed and that I had an amazing group of passionate folks with a lot of experience with these cars that I could tap into. So, don't give up hope, not all is lost!

Use the forum often and ask a lot of questions. Learn to use the search function to gain more knowledge about these cars. You may find that your pig with lipstick isn't such a pig after all!

Good luck,

---

Tom '75 targa

[racer_X]

Welcome- there are worst things that can happen-remember it's about the journey, not the destination.
I bought a 77 this year too. Mine is a stock 2.7 with a sunroof- if you want to build a racer a 3.0 with a deleted sunroof is a great car to start with.
You have lots of options ahead of you just read, read, read- there is lots of good info out there.
When I joined a member here sent me a Porsche book as a gift- I would like to pass on that tradition and send you a book I just finished called the "Golden Porsche"- it's an easy read- send me a PM with your address and I will send it to you.

[Grady Clay]

bat77,
Welcome to the Forum
You will find a lot of help here.

The first order of business is to figure out what you have and the best course of action. Knowledge gives success.

You can’t post too many photos. Overall shots are great but detail images allow Pelicans to spot issues. Prior crash damage, repair quality and rust are very important issues. We need to help you see what you have.

I recommend you siphon (or pump) the remaining fuel out of the tank. You should add the highest octane fuel you can find. Your 911SC engine may still have the catalytic converter so it should unleaded fuel. If you are here in Denver, I can direct you to 100 octane unleaded.

Once you get the deck lid open, you will want to do some cursory but very important maintenance and tests.

You need to inspect the inside of the oil filter by cutting it apart. Our host has the ‘can opener’ tool or many shops will do this for free.

Some images of the engine – top & bottom will help with what's next.

You are going to want to replace the filters (air, oil & fuel) and lubricants (engine oil & transmission lube). Check and photo the magnetic drain plugs. Performing a cylinder leak test and a cranking compression test will give an indication of internal engine condition. Post images of the sparkplugs.

Before you run the engine, you should check (not set) the valve clearance and cam timing. Visually inspect the cam lobes and rocker arms for rust.

I would measure the CIS pressures and check the smooth function of the fuel distributor.

Set the engine to TDC compression, mark the distributor position and take the ignition distributor to a shop with a ‘distributor machine’. This will let you check the functioning of the advance mechanism. We need to confirm the SC distributor and appropriate CD box.
When running check the timing with a strobe timing light. When finished and engine re-broken in, check the timing at 6000 rpm.

More.

What tires? What age? Report the date code.

Is the brake fluid reservoir full?
Look through the wheels – are the brake rotors rusty?
Is the brake pedal firm? Does it ‘pump up’?

Stand in the trunk and bounce up & down.
Is the front suspension movement equal side-to-side?
Repeat by hand pushing down on the rear bumper.

Check the lights and turn signals.

Now you are close to start-up.
Please report.

When you start it, do not rev much above idle.
Ten years without running leaves very high friction on the rings. Only run for a few minutes at a time.

Extra care here will pay very high dividends.

Best,
Grady

[Formerly Steve Wilkinson]

"...and send you a book I just finished called the "Golden Porsche"- it's an easy read..."

Hey! Whaddya mean "Golden Porsche"?

[racer_X]

Steve! (I am assuming this is the "real" Steve Wilkinson"

I am so sorry I butchered your title. I hope this doesn't lower your opinions of your reading audience. The correct title is "The Gold Plated Porsche". A million apologies.

Anyway- I wish there were more books (and movies for that matter) that were interesting enough for the true enthusiast. Thank you for your work.

[Formerly Steve Wilkinson]

Oh, I was kidding you! I'm delighted you enjoyed the book and are passing it on.

[mike monde]

Bat77
If you have a 77 with a 83 3.0 you could have a fun car on your hands. FWIW, this forum will give you access to people like Grady Clay who has already chimed in and Steve W. Trust me, you will find some very knowledgeable people who can get you through any problem that you may find if you are patient and ask the right questions.
Enjoy the journey....it can be fun!

[aigel]

Hey, how about an update!? Would be nice to hear if the lid is open yet!????

George