Snapped Locking Lug :-(

Racerbvd · Racerbvd's Garage

Yep, changing wheels on the Carrera, one of the locking lugs snapped, right at the botton

Geronimo '74 · 01-13-2010, 03:07 AM

Wasn't there a guy on an a Honda or VW forum who took a sawzall to his wheel and completely destroyed it because he couldn't get the bolts off???
I can't remember what the thread was called or I'd post a link.

I am afraid you'll have to go the same route, Byron...
Your Fuchs is fuched...

300cd300sdl911 · 01-13-2010, 04:05 AM

I've seen snapped lug nuts drilled out a couple of times. I believe the gentlemen used a 3/4" hole saw. Must be extremely careful to get it started correctly. Also check on the size I'm not 100% sure 3/4" is correct.

Rot 911 · 01-13-2010, 05:03 AM

Before you go to drilling, try using a bolt/nut remover socket. Several people have had success with them. Sears sells a kit for $30.

brads911sc · brads911sc's Garage

I had this happen last year. Some numbskull used air to tighten them (That would be ME) LOL. I bought a set of cold chisels, a few drill bits, about 10 little stone grinders in various shapes for my dremel, extraction tools, etc (about $150 was spent on tools).. and about 12-14 hours later... mostly with the dremel stones, it was off with NO damage to the wheel. I bought a new stud from our host and all is well. The key here is to go very slow and deliberate. What I did in essence was use a pointed dremel grinder and hard drill bits made to drill out bolts to drill/Grind out the stud from the middle of the broken nut. The first 4 hours I just banged on it with a cold chisel and got NO WHERE. I bought several of those extraction tools pictured above, broken nut removal tools like those pictured above... even the $80 deal made for this very thing... but none of those worked for me. So the dremel grinder on the stud and nut was effective. You need to use the chisels along with the drill/dremel... but youll get there. Just remember there is no rush. About 1/2 way thriough the second day you will be ready to shoot yourself. Just drink 3-4 beers and take a deep breath.

bdisco · 01-13-2010, 06:06 AM

Quote:

Wasn't there a guy on an a Honda or VW forum who took a sawzall to his wheel and completely destroyed it because he couldn't get the bolts off???

So, Dont buy a VW - Honda-Tech

If you do decide to take a saws-all to your Fuchs, please have the camera ready.

msk1986911 · 01-13-2010, 07:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kurt V

Before you go to drilling, try using a bolt/nut remover socket. Several people have had success with them. Sears sells a kit for $30.

If that doesn't work, how about a holes saw slightly larger than the lug?

I had a similar problem in that 2 of the studs on the key for the wheel lock broke off. I took the car to a mechanic who use the key (with the remaining 2 studs) and got it off, in seconds, with an impact wrench). I promptly purchased 4 new lug nuts from PP.

Mike

Jeff Alton · 01-13-2010, 08:05 AM

Pound a socket on there that is has a slight interference fit, and back the nut out. Simple, done a few times before.

Cheers

BRPORSCHE · 01-13-2010, 08:26 AM

We just used JW's hole saw method this past weekend. The original lug nut had sheared in half. The hole saw worked very well, even for a first try. We didn't touch the wheel.

The photo below shows the part of the nut that snapped off (1), the outer part that started to spin just as the hole saw "broke through", and the inner part that was not cut by the hole saw (3)(the ID of the saw is slightly larger than the lug). I was careful, so the wheel didn't even get nicked.

Instead of using a sharpened pick to pull out the inner part left on the lug threads, I wrapped a piece of shop towel over it and grabbed the shop towel with a pair of needle nose pliers. I was able to turn the inner part off the lug in one piece. If you look closely (it's not a very good photo), you can still see the threads intact on the inside of (3).

The screw on the side of the hole saw mandrel is for removing the pilot drill. You can't use a pilot drill while you do this, but you don't need one--the lug pilots the hole saw.

I learned two important lessons: 1. The hole saw method works. 2. Next time I'll use more heat and PB Blaster so that I won't break the lug nut in the first place.

brads911sc · brads911sc's Garage

Wow. thats Great! Why didnt someone tell me about this method?

Quote:

Originally Posted by BRPORSCHE

We just used JW's hole saw method this past weekend. The original lug nut had sheared in half. The hole saw worked very well, even for a first try. We didn't touch the wheel.

The photo below shows the part of the nut that snapped off (1), the outer part that started to spin just as the hole saw "broke through", and the inner part that was not cut by the hole saw (3)(the ID of the saw is slightly larger than the lug). I was careful, so the wheel didn't even get nicked.

Instead of using a sharpened pick to pull out the inner part left on the lug threads, I wrapped a piece of shop towel over it and grabbed the shop towel with a pair of needle nose pliers. I was able to turn the inner part off the lug in one piece. If you look closely (it's not a very good photo), you can still see the threads intact on the inside of (3).

The screw on the side of the hole saw mandrel is for removing the pilot drill. You can't use a pilot drill while you do this, but you don't need one--the lug pilots the hole saw.

I learned two important lessons: 1. The hole saw method works. 2. Next time I'll use more heat and PB Blaster so that I won't break the lug nut in the first place.

JWest · 01-13-2010, 10:27 AM

Excerpt from factory manual:

Racerbvd · Racerbvd's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff Alton

Pound a socket on there that is has a slight interference fit, and back the nut out. Simple, done a few times before.

Cheers

Tried that, no luck

but I really need to wait for it to warm up before I try again) then back to the Toy, I mean tool store.

Quote:

Some numbskull used air to tighten them (That would be ME)

I was removing by hand, Snap-On 19mm deep 1/2 socket and it snapped right off, at the base of the hexed sides...

Thanks for the input & I'd remove the trailing arm before I cut any of my Fuchs

rnln · 01-13-2010, 11:35 AM

America tires use these on my cars (a little longer) several times and it worked everytime. Hammer it in, air impact gun. It'll stuck in the tool. hammer them both on the ground. They will separate.
Once, another place weld another nut on the stripped one. I don't like this approach as the tool below. Clean and quick.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kurt V

Before you go to drilling, try using a bolt/nut remover socket. Several people have had success with them. Sears sells a kit for $30.

MT930 · 01-13-2010, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BRPORSCHE

We just used JW's hole saw method this past weekend. The original lug nut had sheared in half. The hole saw worked very well, even for a first try. We didn't touch the wheel.

The photo below shows the part of the nut that snapped off (1), the outer part that started to spin just as the hole saw "broke through", and the inner part that was not cut by the hole saw (3)(the ID of the saw is slightly larger than the lug). I was careful, so the wheel didn't even get nicked.

Instead of using a sharpened pick to pull out the inner part left on the lug threads, I wrapped a piece of shop towel over it and grabbed the shop towel with a pair of needle nose pliers. I was able to turn the inner part off the lug in one piece. If you look closely (it's not a very good photo), you can still see the threads intact on the inside of (3).

The screw on the side of the hole saw mandrel is for removing the pilot drill. You can't use a pilot drill while you do this, but you don't need one--the lug pilots the hole saw.

I learned two important lessons: 1. The hole saw method works. 2. Next time I'll use more heat and PB Blaster so that I won't break the lug nut in the first place.

I have done this it works like the Cat's A$$ Thanks JW It's the less risk method

86911cab · 01-13-2010, 04:44 PM

I would use a socket that fits it snug and tap it onto the broken lugnut. You could even grind a slight taper to an old socket leaving a little of the hex shape on the inside to improve grip. Keep in mind that the harder you drive it on the tighter it may become on the stud. The lug is soft and it will compress against the stud.

pwd72s · 05:48 PM

I've been thinking of ordering this set...

IRWIN 5-pc Lugnut Specialty Set

Same principle as the Sears set above, only these begin with a 19mm (3/4" size) and go larger. Also, deeper flats for more grip with a socket and a 1/2" breaker bar. Not cheap at over $100 for the set, but a lot less expensive than a new fuchs!