Ignition switch?????

[82911sc]

My 82911sc has 350,000 miles and now when I turn the key all the ignition lights come on but the starter doesnt engage or click or anything. I can turn the key again and maybe the same thing happens or it will start right up. Is it the ignition switch or the starter??
Thanks

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by 82911sc

My 82911sc has 350,000 miles and now when I turn the key all the ignition lights come on but the starter doesnt engage or click or anything. I can turn the key again and maybe the same thing happens or it will start right up. Is it the ignition switch or the starter??
Thanks

Your car's ignition switch system is comprised of two (2) sections. The mechanical and electrical sections: The mechanical portion does the locking and unlocking, driving the electrical tumbler (electrical connections) to ON and START positions. Dismount the electrical section from the mechanical lock and start from there. You could actually start the car by using a screw driver to turn the electrical device once you have it out (disconnected). The hardest part in doing this job is how to access the two (2) small screws located deep under the dashboard. Keep us posted.

Tony

[psalt]

No one can give you the answer to that question over the internet. You need to get under the car and test if you have 12 volts at the large yellow wire at the starter when the key is in the start position.

[82911sc]

Originally Posted by psalt

No one can give you the answer to that question over the internet. You need to get under the car and test if you have 12 volts at the large yellow wire at the starter when the key is in the start position.

This problem is very intermittant ie it starts 95% of the time when I try. I just dont want to get stranded as this is my daily driver. The most I have ever had to retry starting is 5 turns of the key which made me nervous to say the least. I guess the testing of the yellow wire will only give me an answer if the car wont start right?

[82911sc]

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

Your car's ignition switch system is comprised of two (2) sections. The mechanical and electrical sections: The mechanical portion does the locking and unlocking, driving the electrical tumbler (electrical connections) to ON and START positions. Dismount the electrical section from the mechanical lock and start from there. You could actually start the car by using a screw driver to turn the electrical device once you have it out (disconnected). The hardest part in doing this job is how to access the two (2) small screws located deep under the dashboard. Keep us posted.

Tony

If the ign, oil and other lights come when the key is turned on doesnt that mean the electrical section is working?

[psalt]

If the ign, oil and other lights come when the key is turned on doesnt that mean the electrical section is working?

No.

Guessing won't do it. You have to test. First make sure that the battery is good and fully charged. Does it get full voltage at terminal (50) at the starter when the key is turned ? If not, you need to troubleshoot the wiring, and all the connections back to the ignition switch. If it does, it is in the starter or solenoid.

This is a common issue with the 911, simply because the starter is so far away from the switch and on your car there are several connections that could be bad. Search through the archives and you will find many stories of starter problems.

If your starter is original, I would BET it is on the way out. What I do in these situations is fit a remote starter button in the engine compartment connecting the big battery terminal on the starter (30) to the yellow starter switch (50) terminal. This takes about 10 minutes if you have the right terminals. This way, when and if the starter is silent, you can walk back to the engine compartment and push the button instead of pushing the car.

Be aware that if the starter is bad and you are turning the key several times before it turns, the cold start valve is spraying fuel and this will cause a big smoke at start, no start when hot, or worse.

[JFairman]

"the cold start valve is spraying fuel and this will cause a big smoke at start, no start when hot, or worse"
If it's warm out the thermotime switch in the driver side chain box cover will keep that from happening and if it's cold and depending on how cold out it is, the heater element in the thermotime switch should heat up and stop that from happening after the first to second time the key is turned to start.

[1990C4S]

It is also possible the solenoid has failed. You need a voltmeter or test light on the yellow wire. Buy a 99 cent light from Pepboys. Wire it one side to the yellow wire, the other to ground. Next time it fails look at the light, if it is on the problem is the starter. If it off the problem is likely the ignition switch.

[jstobo]

Park on a hill.

[82911sc]

Originally Posted by jstobo

Park on a hill.

I do

Thanks to all who have responded . I will check out the starter and switch and let you know what i find

[psalt]

If it's warm out the thermotime switch in the driver side chain box cover will keep that from happening and if it's cold and depending on how cold out it is, the heater element in the thermotime switch should heat up and stop that from happening after the first to second time the key is turned to start.

I wish it was that warm here.

The test value of the TTS is 113F and 7.5 seconds of continous cranking. I would consider an ambient temp of 113F to be outside the definition of warm. In my experience, the TTS is never open on a cold car and the heater response is not quick enough to open it under several repeated turns of the key. How many time have you repeatedly attempted to crank a CIS car with a dead starter ?

[brads911sc]

I had this problem on mine two years ago. Changed the ignition switch (the whole unit - both mechanical and electrical) and my problem was resolved.
You need to jump the wires and bypass the switch to take the switch out of the equation. Cost me about $600. Not a cheap repair.

Originally Posted by 82911sc

My 82911sc has 350,000 miles and now when I turn the key all the ignition lights come on but the starter doesnt engage or click or anything. I can turn the key again and maybe the same thing happens or it will start right up. Is it the ignition switch or the starter??
Thanks

[1990C4S]

Originally Posted by brads911sc

Changed the ignition switch ... Cost me about $600. Not a cheap repair.

Which is why 82911SC should figure out the root cause. Might be the switch. Might not. Don't assume.

[dshepp806]

Bet it's the solenoid...........
\


T/shooting is required here.....