handbrake internals

[verdeboyo]

hello pelican members
Have just had my rear wheel bearing replaced. While everything was removed we came across the handbrake components. Because all the components must be as old as the car (25 years) they all needed replacing - no wonder the handbrake was a little POOR!!

Once all parts were removed we found only one expanding bow, the manual says there should be 4 in total, 2 per nearside and 2 per offside. Can anyone please correct me if I have it wrong in picture A. See picture B for some of rusty bits that need replacing.

Thanks in advance for your help. I'm getting desperate to drive the old girl as she's been off the road for 5 months last year, just for restoration work, so needs a good thrashing for 2010.

[2.70Racer]

Verdeboyo,
I just finished replacing the rear wheel bearings on my '85 Carrera.
The orientation of the expanding parts as shown in your picture is correct.
Two per side, fitted to the provided studs on the brake shoes.
The spring as shown in the lower picture is obviously broken.
I don't see the adjuster piece which fits at the opposite end of the brake shoes.
Perhaps a kit is available to replace the old small parts of this E-brake assembly.
I was fortunate living in the southwestern dessert of the US, no rust.
Your brake shoes look ok, a little cleaning and they should be fine.
Once the brake parts are assembled, I installed the E-brake assembly and I installed the E-brake cable and temporarily installed the retaining nut.
This is done before the wheel hub is pressed into the rear bearing.
I then slip the rear rotor and brake drum over the E-brake assembly and adjust the brake shoes to the brake drum with the star wheel adjuster.
Being certain the E-brake cable is properly inserted through the rear of the trailing arm.
The E-brake cable has two lock nuts to properly locate the cable.
I loosened and backed off the lock nuts to install the cable through the expanding parts and spring, making note of the original position of the cable lock nuts.
This made the installation of the small castellated nut on the end of the cable simple.
Then return the cable lock nuts to their original postition and tighten them in place.
I adjusted the star wheel adjuster until the shoes locked the drum, then backed off the star wheel a couple of teeth.
I checked the operation by lifting the E-brake lever then releasing it several times.
It is worth while to spend a little time here to get it right.
Once the operation of the E-brake is confirmed, remove the rotor and install the retaining plate, the 4 retaining bolts, plus the rear bolt through the sheel metal.
Install a new cotter pin through the castellated nut retaining the E-brake cable.
Now install the wheel hub into the new bearing, followed by the inside CV joint hub.
As you know, removing the wheel hub takes the inner race of the bearing with it, ruining the bearing.
For this reason I was careful to complete the e-brake assembly and adjustment.
For me this was a dirty, time consuming job.
I certainly don't look forward to doing this job again.
Good luck,

[verdeboyo]

Hello Doug
Thanks very much for that. I just knew someone somewhere could help me. The pictures didn't show everything as some of it rusted into bits, but luckily over here we have type911.co.uk for those tiny difficult-to-get bits.

At last she'll be back on the road by end of this month, thanks again there.

[2.70Racer]

Verdeboyo,
You are most welcome.
I'm just passing info along from the folks that have shared here and local to me.
Thanks again to Wayne for this very helpful site.

[verdeboyo]

hello Doug
100% right, what a great site. Hope I can pass on valuable info to other members in time.Handbrake perfect now. Time for a drive.

Thanks again
George