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Buy them, sell them
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I've got the rear window on my coupe leaking like a sunofagun. If I park it in the rain, the rear footwells get very damp.
I think it's leaking at the base of the screen, where the rubber is starting to perish (of course! ![]() If I get a local windscreen guy out (who once replaced a windscreen in my old 928 for only $70) will he be able to simply install a new seal? Or is it a nightmare job, requiring headlining install etc etc? Any advice would be appreciated. AC ------------------ Adam Chaplin - 1976 911 Coupe My Pelican Gallery Page My Owners Gallery Page |
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Author of "101 Projects"
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Nightmare. I wouldn't do it if I were you. Too easy to damage the rear window and the trim!
-Wayne |
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Buy them, sell them
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Wayne,
What do you recommend? Should I just get a tube of silicon/silastic and smother the whole seal? That'd be pretty messy, wouldn't it? Is there a neat way of doing it? Thanks again AC ------------------ Adam Chaplin - 1976 911 Coupe My Pelican Gallery Page My Owners Gallery Page |
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GAFB
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Raleigh, NC, USA
Posts: 7,842
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![]() Aw come on Wayne!!! It's not that bad ![]() Adam, I just posted about my experiences with this job (windshield) earlier today. Check it out at http://www.pelicanparts.com/ultimate/Forum3/HTML/010081.html Wayne is right though- the rear is more difficult due to having to feed in the defroster wires into the gasket. It's also a more difficult position to access from inside the car while pulling out the rope to seat the seal. Don't bother with loading it up with sealant. The water's going to find a way in through that rotten seal. -d ------------------ Dave 1972 911T (E motor) RSR replica project http://members.nbci.com/dtwinters/garage/ |
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Registered
Join Date: Jun 2000
Posts: 3,444
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For those of you who have had enough with the trim:
Find a 964 rear window with its trim-less seal. The window is about 4 mm larger in width and length, and YES, no more trim... GeorgeK |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,453
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any local glass shop can seal the rubber on both sides with the proper stuff. don't use silicone. it doesn't work and looks like @%#*
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Registered
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I'm thinking of removing front and rear glass for a repaint - which will obviously lead to replacing the headliner and rebuilding the dash - does it never end?
I've read plenty about removing and replacing the windshield but what precisely makes the rear window a more difficult task? Wayne, what makes it a nightmare? ------------------ Allan Broadribb '70-911E, 2.2l with Webers http://www.cheaterswayside.com/uploads/Mvc-002s355.jpg |
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GAFB
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Raleigh, NC, USA
Posts: 7,842
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![]() More difficult because- -More perimeter that must be corded -Requires cutting gasket and feeding in of defrost wires (NOT fun) -Little/no leverage to wrangle the cord while you're installing, because of location in car. Maybe a really long cord would help this. Wayne? What did I miss that causes you to upgrade this to nightmare? Where does nightmare fit on your 1-10 scale? ![]() -d ------------------ Dave 1972 911T (E motor) RSR replica project http://members.nbci.com/dtwinters/garage/ |
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Hi Adam, just about to embark on a similar project, in fact I’ve just picked up the new seal and trim.
One thing I found on my non-galvanised car is that I now have a large patch of rust under the window, which you may want to check for. I’ll be taking the glass out myself, treating the metal with POR15 and having the glass professionally re-installed. I've had the headlining replaced (for which I had to have the glass removed) and noticed it was held around the frame with its own clips. Changing your seal shouldn't effect it. Good luck ------------------ Paul 911T'69 |
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Paul,
Are you saying I can change the headliner without removing the rear glass? I'm removing the glass anyway - is it easier to change the headliner with the glass in or the glass out? I'm always concerned that a brand new headliner will get damaged when the glass gets put back in. I was thinking I'd take the seats out to give me more space to replace the glass. On the other hand (there are also five fingers!) what's a reasonable price for a professional to replace the glass? ------------------ Allan Broadribb '70-911E, 2.2l with Webers http://www.cheaterswayside.com/uploads/Mvc-002s355.jpg |
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Other way around Allan, you should be able to change the seal without impacting on the headlining.
To the best of my knowledge the rear (and front screen) has be removed to replace the headlining - which was the way my reputable auto-trimmer did mine. Regards, ------------------ Paul 911T'69 |
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GAFB
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Raleigh, NC, USA
Posts: 7,842
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We've had quotes for both around here- 50 bucks to do an already prepped windshield area. By the time you have it prepped, though, there's only another 15 minutes work to just put it in yourself.
Anywhere you see the headliner disappear under something- you have to disassemble. Door seals, 1/4 windows, sunroof, windshield, rear glass, the list goes on. The headliner is NOT easy, even to prepare for. We got a quote for having the sunroof '78 turbo car headliner done locally. They quoted $1,000 installed. We freaked, but after seeing what goes into the job, I suppose it is not an unfair price. Since it was in good condition otherwise, just yellowed, we decided to just dye the damn thing black. By the way, Allan, I've heard others with the same concern that the headliner can be damaged when installing the windshield. I didn't have any problem with that this weekend at all- it's hard to see how it could be damaged. The twine/rope is pulled straight down and away from the headliner. -d ------------------ Dave 1972 911T (E motor) RSR replica project http://members.nbci.com/dtwinters/garage/ |
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Author of "101 Projects"
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I've polled many experts on this to find an easier way. Taking out glass and putting it back in is a huge bear! The trim is very difficult to get out without bending it, and if you do, forget about trying to bend it back to it's original position. If you bend it or damage it going in, it's about $70/side. I tried to put mine back in the other night, and spent five hours trying to bend my trim back into shape. No dice.
I bought new trim, and I'm going to have the window guy do it. I figure for $50, it's not worth risking potential damage to the trim. From what I hear, these guys do these all the time, and it's an art, not a procedure. My mechanics and fellow Porsche experts ALL agree with me on this one. It's a very difficult job, and there is plenty to messup (not even counting the glass that you might break). -Wayne |
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Author of "101 Projects"
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I've polled many experts on this to find an easier way. Taking out glass and putting it back in is a huge bear! The trim is very difficult to get out without bending it, and if you do, forget about trying to bend it back to it's original position. If you bend it or damage it going in, it's about $70/side. I tried to put mine back in the other night, and spent five hours trying to bend my trim back into shape. No dice.
I bought new trim, and I'm going to have the window guy do it. I figure for $50, it's not worth risking potential damage to the trim. From what I hear, these guys do these all the time, and it's an art, not a procedure. My mechanics and fellow Porsche experts ALL agree with me on this one. It's a very difficult job, and there is plenty to messup (not even counting the glass that you might break). -Wayne |
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