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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 3,694
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What is the correct way to remove the crank pulley with the motor still in the car?
And second, I need to clarify this... Tell me if I'm right or wrong- the rubber hose that comes from the Injection boot mounts to the top fitting behind the oil filler tube neck, the actual crankcase breather hose attackes to the lower mount behind the oil filter...am I right??? |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,435
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remove muffler and rear tin. lower engine and remove motor mount to expose pulley. impact wrench to get the bolt off. be careful to disconnect wiring plug and heat hoses, watch fuel lines as you lower. shift coupler should be ok if it doesn't drop too far. the hoses to the tank are correct. did you use 574 on the case? i've had problems with that stuff. the last time i used it was on a 930 engine, it didn't squeeze out like it should and left a thick layer between the cases, causing the same leak you have. the o ring on the nose bearing didn't get squeezed properly because of it. never again.
[This message has been edited by john walker's workshop (edited 09-19-2001).] |
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Irrationally exuberant
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Registered
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Leland, if you don't have access to an impact you can use a long power bar and keep the engine in 5th it will come off.
But when you have access tho the USAF tool crib that probably isn't a problem. Good luck let us know what you use and how it works. I will be copying whatever works on my 77. Shawn |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 3,694
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Thanks guys, the only reason I was asking is because yesterday I removed the crank pulley with a 19mm open end wrench and a piece of pipe as an extension. I put the car in gear, but as I put pressure on the nut the motor started to want to turn counterclockwise.
I got paranoid after reading in Waynes tech article that turning the motor backwards can hurt the tensioners/chains. We'll see if my patch worked today or not. thanks again guys, Lee |
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: New Orleans, LA
Posts: 88
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What are you going to use to try to patch it up with?
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Sherwood, Oregon
Posts: 2,119
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Lee, there is a tool that goes in holes in the pulley. Kind of like the early tool for the alternator pulley. But no one uses it.
Everyone seems to just use an impact wrench. But no way to torque it with the car up on jack stands. Or at least I couldn't figure it out. Good Luck .......... ------------------ Cary Kutter 77 Euro Carrera w/3.2 74 914 2.0 ( base model ) PCA Region - Big Sky |
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Registered
Join Date: May 2001
Location: North Port, FL
Posts: 342
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Put the car is 5th and have a friend stand on the brakes. That is how I torqued mine. Also make sure you have the right torque figures. The durloc bolt needs to be torqued to 125 ft/lbs.
------------------ Ted Stringer nuke3@juno.com '84 911 Targa aka pocketrocket |
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Dallas
Posts: 3,575
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Cary, can you shed some light on what tool you are referring to? I can't seem to get the pulley to not turn. I can get an impact wrench in there but I'm sure the pulley will turn a bit even with the car in 5th and the e brake on. Don't want to hose up my chains...
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Buck '88 Coupe, '87 Cab, '88 535i sold, '19 GLC 300 DD Warren Hall, gone but not forgotten |
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