b&b oil cooler front spoiler mounting suggestions requested

[katigbr]

I'd like to get some advice on front spoiler mounting a b&b oil cooler on my 72 with RS spoiler w/oil cooler cutout. The front cooler is needed for my 3.6 conversion. Based on a trial fit, the b&b cooler looks too deep and wide to fit under the RS front spoiler without cutting into the front end sheet metal. The cooler flow would also appear to be obstructed by the mounting location. My choices are :
1) buy/exchange another oil cooler (Mocal) that might provide a better fit but no improvement in airflow.
2) modify front nose sheet metal to provide a pocket and improved airflow through the entire cooler.
3) replace the front spoiler with one providing more clearance.

Replacing the cooler is an option but don't know if the Mocal is equal to the b&b in performance and doesn't really improve the airflow.

Changing the front spoiler doesn't really appeal to me because I don't really want to lose the RS look.

I thought I'd explore the sheet metal modification as it would potentially give me better airflow through the cooler if done correctly. The current mounting location would only leave half of the cooler in free flowing air. The upper half would be somewhat obstructed by the nose and have restricted airflow. My thought was to cut out a section of the front nose and front pan then weld an angled piece of sheetmetal allowing the air to flow through the entire cooler and then downward or sideward to the wheelwells.

Any words of advice or suggestions?

Rick

[911pcars]

Rick,
If modifying the front sheet metal poses no historical issues with you, carve out an area behind the oil cooler to fit a fabricated curved panel that provides:
1. Adequate room to mount and house the oil cooler
2. Provides a smooth air outlet for heated air
3. Sufficient strength for the material removed

Tack weld the panel in place, then complete the seam welds. If you merely cut a hole in the front, hot air will enter the trunk space. Provide an exit for this air (lots of it) or it will migrate into the car interior. This, however, could be a solution for a lack of interior heating due to the 3.6 conversion. Duct the oil cooler so all inlet air passes through the cooler (not around it).

I use an Earl's cooler that fits in my RS front bumper/spoiler. It's a tight fit, doesn't require any cutting and has nil hot air outlet, but it works. However, with a 3.6, your cooling requirements probably exceed what I have (2.7). Other alternatives are to run another cooler(s) (in one or both front fenders) in series with the front cooler. Adequate air flow is as important as the number and size of coolers you install. Other air flow mods include:
1. Create air hole(s) in back of headlight bucket(s)
2. Remove or modify turn signal light housing(s)
3. Use an RS bumper-type that contains brake cooling inlet ports, then duct them to add'l fender-mount cooler(s).
4. Add electric fans to promote low vehicle speed airflow (this happens occasionally doesn't it?).

After you solve the primary cooling issues and you need some track temp./hot weather insurance, you can add a water mist system (shameless plug). I'm sure others on the list will have additional large displacement cooling solutions to share.

Regards,
Sherwood Lee
www.seinesystems.com
http://members.rennlist.org/911pcars

[Bill Verburg]

The B&B barely fits in the later chasis with Ruf or RS bumper here's a pic on my car.

The air exit from the cooler is not fair, but it works perfectly .

The early car certainly has less room so the mods to the tub are are more important. Here you can see the front tub mod you will need(note the bottom of the front wall);


The oil lines can be run internally as in the RSR pics or externally as I have on my car. If external plumbing then the passenger side corner of the tub will require additional clearancing

[Early_S_Man]

Rick,

Before you think about sheet metal modifications, why not experiment with the fiberglass bumper/spoiler a bit to see if your cooling can't be enhanced.

If the cooler will fit by lowering the bottom edge 1" and widening the opening, so that the cooler can be mounted as far forward as possible, that would improve the cooling flow without metal body mods.

There is also an 'IROC-style' bumper available for early long-hood cars, and it has a larger cooler opening than the 2.8 RSR-style bumper.

[Bill Verburg]

Can anyone tell me why the image from my web site appears as a url rather than as an image in my post above?. I did use correct code.

[Early_S_Man]

One too many **http://**

**http://http://home.nycap.rr.com/wmv/B&Bcooler_from_below.jpg**

[Bill Verburg]

Nope, I cought that one, finally had to use html rather than ubb. I still dont understand why it was changed to a url. I redid it correctly a half dozen times, incorrectly twice. the other 2 images work fine using the same ubb code that didn't work in the first image,

[Kahuna]

dumb ? of the morning, Why do the later cars have more clearance for a cooler?

[Early_S_Man]

kahuna,

If the stock 'battering ram' bumper is replaced with a fiberglass RSR, or IROC bumper, there is vacant space where the aluminum structure used to be!

[MMARSH]

I Just did this install on my 72, we cut the fron and basically mounted it in the front of the trunk. the lines exit out through the trunk to the wheelwell area. I will try to get some pictures if you interested. If you go to http://www.gunnarracing.com/index.htm and check the restoration of the sebring car, they have very good photos for reference.



Michael Marshall

[Kahuna]

I believe that site is where at least 2 of Bill Vs pics are from.

[rattlsnak]

what are the diminesions on the B&B? Im interested in it if you wish to sell it.

[Bill Verburg]

The 74 up is ~168.9 in long the pre 74 was ~164" long. The extra length is partially in the front. So between the extra length and the more forward placement of the later valances there is a bit more room between the wall and the lower valance not much but enough to accomodate a standard size B&B at 5.5" x 2.25" x 20". Bigger ones are available by special order.

[katigbr]

Thanks all for your input and advice. I've decided to do modify the nose and pan to create the "oil cooler box" at the nose. Again Pelican BB delivers value. I'll post pictures as work progresses.

I'm assuming that I don't need to create a tube or square steel frame around the cooler box for anything more than sheet metal support. It doesn't appear to be structurally significant area. The only possible areas it supports are the hood latch and front bumper mounting points. Although the A-arm mounts are part of the pan, I think I'm far enough away to be a major contributor to the structural integrity of the pan.

Are my assumptions correct?

Rick

[Bill Verburg]

Try to use sheetmatel comparable to what the factory used. Most of the strength is derived from the boxed shapes rather than the metal itself.

Gunnar, at one time, had detailed pics showing the reconstruction of a cooler box. they may still be somewhere on the site.