Installing Boge Inserts/Boge Struts - little more help please -

[newuser11]

I have a few questions (did not find using Search and sort of glossed over in 101 Projects book) about installing Boge inserts into Boge struts - 1977 911S:

1. The new units come with a new slotted nut and the smaller top nut...not sure if the original seal under the old slotted nut should be installed under the new nut? I know this was prolly to keep the fluid in the strut but perhaps it also keeps water out?

2. I used a vacuum pump to slurp up the fluid in the strut and will run a rag down to clean it out a bit more - is it critical to get it bone dry, i.e. as in removing it entirely, etc.

3. To get clearance to remove the left side I knocked out the top bracket which was already loose (3 allen head bolts) - now I can pass everything thru it - but on the right side the bracket is still sealed in with some black junk so I won't do it the same way - how to get clearance as the hub is hung up by the brake hose -do I need to split the hose or can the clip that holds it to the chassis be removed w/o splitting the line in order to swing the hub out?

And a few tips:

Tip #1: For removing the top nut which will want to twist with the strut body - use an air wrench - whoosh, comes right off.

Tip #2: Tool idea for the slotted nut - use a motorcycle clutch hub holder. I happened to have one in my tool chest - it has two "L" prongs with an adjustable vice grip - secure it to the slots, clamp it down and twist - if you position it right it will not bear on the strut. Beats trying to find the correct socket (forget the name of those) or resorting to a chisel/hammer which you prolly don't want to use here with very much force.

Thanks to all in advance - I can not wait to test drive it with new front shocks!

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by newuser11

I have a few questions (did not find using Search and sort of glossed over in 101 Projects book) about installing Boge inserts into Boge struts - 1977 911S:

1. The new units come with a new slotted nut and the smaller top nut...not sure if the original seal under the old slotted nut should be installed under the new nut? I know this was prolly to keep the fluid in the strut but perhaps it also keeps water out?

The top should have (going top to bottom): a nut, small washer, large washer and then the rubber stuff.

2. I used a vacuum pump to slurp up the fluid in the strut and will run a rag down to clean it out a bit more - is it critical to get it bone dry, i.e. as in removing it entirely, etc.

Get all the free oil out otherwise you may have problems getting the new strut to seat intot he bottom of the strut.

3. To get clearance to remove the left side I knocked out the top bracket which was already loose (3 allen head bolts) - now I can pass everything thru it - but on the right side the bracket is still sealed in with some black junk so I won't do it the same way - how to get clearance as the hub is hung up by the brake hose -do I need to split the hose or can the clip that holds it to the chassis be removed w/o splitting the line in order to swing the hub out?

To bad you did that, your alignment is now hosed. You should not need to loosen or remove that plate, just compress the strut from underneath and swing out. The back stuff was put there by the factory to seal the opening. you should be able to unclip the hose bracket and get enough clearance to swing the strut out from the bottom.

Since your alignment is hosed away, you should inspect your suspension bushings and replace any that have perished (most likely the rear springplates, possibly the trailing arms and maybe the fronts). The reason is that you will need to get an alignment anyway and you should do as much work as possible that requires an alignment so you only pay for the alignment once.

And a few tips:

Tip #1: For removing the top nut which will want to twist with the strut body - use an air wrench - whoosh, comes right off.

Tip #2: Tool idea for the slotted nut - use a motorcycle clutch hub holder. I happened to have one in my tool chest - it has two "L" prongs with an adjustable vice grip - secure it to the slots, clamp it down and twist - if you position it right it will not bear on the strut. Beats trying to find the correct socket (forget the name of those) or resorting to a chisel/hammer which you prolly don't want to use here with very much force.

Thanks to all in advance - I can not wait to test drive it with new front shocks!

Before you test drive, bring your car to a Porsche specific shop and get your car ride height set, corner balanced and aligned. Since you live in Portland, you should consider usign Rothsport (503 885-9626--tell Jeff Harry sent you) for this service. They charge about the same as the others and you get the advantage, IMHO, of a shop that really knows 911 suspension setup.

[newuser11]

Thanks HarryD - will follow up and do as you suggest - I am sure it is due for those replacements. I have no idea when it was last aligned so that will be an excellent thing to do at this juncture. I think I can get it back fairly close as the markings for the bracket tabs are still there - at least good enough to get to the shop.

Much appreciated!

[HarryD]

You are welcome. Steve Weiner (Steve@Rennsport) posts here regularly and can a most valuable asset to your planning/execution. He can help you get the correct parts and get your car suspension tuned (he works with Jeff).

[RoyB]

I just did a whole article on my web site on this topic:

RVB Precision - Welcome to the world of ultra precision



Hope it helps a bit.