Struts off! What else should I be doing???

[rusnak]

Counter hold the tie rod end with a wrench on the squared-section. Do not use a small or narrow jaw wrench, but a good sized one. I used my jumbo adjustable wrench on that side, and the open-end wrench on the lock nut. Try some solvent or drop a few drops of brake fluid on the threads, and the nut will come right off.

[holtjv]

Got 'em, thanks guys. I think I left the same threads remaining but noted that they were different on each side--the passenger side in the pic above has about 8 threads while the drivers side, less. I didn't locktite them in yet, assuming I'd have to move them around a bit when I reassemble. Is there a standard measurement I should be using?

Inner bearings next, then a couple of hard brake lines. Tomorrow I'll jack up the rear and put the ss lines in since I'll have to bleed anyway. Then I think I'm done, just waiting on the struts to come back. All the other bushings look excellent. The rod boot looks like crap but I'm positive I don't have the energy to mess with what I've read is a bugaboo to do.

This has been a great project, can't wait to go for a drive!

Jack

[holtjv]

Thought I'd close out this thread with some lessons learned after reassembly.

First, it went incredibly smoothly, mainly due to reading as much as possible on pelican before reinstalling.

Anyway, here are a couple things I picked up on my own and with help:

1. the castle nut for the tie rod end stud: if you buy new turbo tie rod ends as I did, this nut is about 1/8" shorter in height than the original. If you try to use the original nut by mistake or otherwise, you won't be able to screw it in far enough to slide the cotter pin through. If, however, after you've torqued the emmereffer too much to expose the hole for the cotter pin, you discover the new nut next to your foot, use it!

2. Here's the most excellent one, and I thank Jamie Novak for it: when it comes time to torque the slotted (castellated) nut at the bottom of the ball joint, you will not be able to do the final torque with the wheel on. Here's what you do instead: take the wheel off, put the car on a stand, put your torque wrench and special socket in place, and use a jack with a rotating plate to firmly press against your wrench. Jack it up quite a bit so it's tight. Then do your 184 lbs ft torque. If you don't do this, the special socket will surely slip off.

3. Ball joint wedge pin: this has been covered on pelican, but the new wedge pin you'll buy has a different taper and thus will stick out about 1/16th of an inch on the engine side. I just torqued the nut on anyway and it's fine.

Feel free to PM with Q's. Car handle great with new tie rod ends and ball joints. Jack