asking the experts

donyount · donyount's Garage

Car : 1971 E MFI pertronic ignition and msi

Problem : Very rich, Lots oil in air box, Lots of smoke with throttle, overall sounds like crap. Smoke , smoke and more smoke. Driveable just not enjoyable. Idles ok now with pertronic. Had bad points. Oil over the top of engine because so much going in air box. Oil all over the back of car every time I drive. Need to wipe off layer in short 10 min drive.

What has been done in last few months : Rings, Valve Job and seals. Main and rod bearings. Hydrolic tensioners. Dealership did the tensioners and cam timing. Been to several other shops. Little better everytime goes in new shop but not in relationship to the bill

Getting ready to go back to new shop. Thoughts from the board?

Gas smell from oil. Oil level correct middle of marks when running and hot. Did searches and not finding diagnosis with what i have allready done.

paulgtr · paulgtr's Garage

I'm not an expert, and I am sure you tried it already.
drain some of the oil and see if it still happens?

donyount · donyount's Garage

Thanks but tried. It was very thin like mixed with fuel. Did before went on a long drive. Didnt seem to change any. Made it home with fouled plug.

Steve@Rennsport · 02-27-2010, 10:23 AM

Stop driving it. Do not run the engine until this is fixed otherwise you will ruin the bearings from fuel dilution.

Two main potential issues here:

1) Fuel is mixing with the oil inside the MFI pump. Was that overhauled?

2) Rings have not seated, thus oil may be pumping past them. Have a leakdown test done immediately to confirm.

Where in Texas are you? Mayo Performance in the DFW area is very good with these cars.

donyount · donyount's Garage

MFI pump not overhauled. Mayo was next shop to go to... This week hopefully has opening. Change mfi belt twice thinking it was slipping.

Air meter reads 14.9

donyount · donyount's Garage

Talked to the engine builder. Says rings should have set by now. 400-500 miles. Will update thread after mayos for future searches and research.

Any other last minute suggestions? Long drive to mayos tomorrow.

Flieger · Flieger's Garage

Fuel in the oil is very bad. I had that with Castrol GTX 20W50 and switched to Brad Penn 20W50 and now the oil stays nice and clean. I think the Castrol broke down too easily and got thinner, getting mixed in the MFI pump.

Scott Douglas · Scott Douglas's Garage

Don
Don't drive it to Mayo's, have it towed there.

john walker's workshop · 02-28-2010, 08:56 PM

if you have to drive it, do an oil and filter change first. it usually takes a while to fuel foul it. my guess is it's running super rich.

donyount · donyount's Garage

Super , super rich. Mayo cant get me in to 12th. Will let everyone know after that for futher searches.

john walker's workshop · 03-01-2010, 07:38 AM

is the heat hose attached between the pump thermostat and the left heat exchanger? will run way rich if the t/stat doesn't get warmed.

donyount · donyount's Garage

yes. have to lean toward the mfi pump not working properly. Every thing else new. Too many mechanics have have had their hands in it lately. Wish i could get good advice, most mechanics just want to bad mouth the guy ahead of them. I just want it fixed. Mayo booked up so will have to wait....

Will post a few pics in the mean time while i wait to get into the shop. Maybe something glarring that will be noticed.

Grady Clay · 03-01-2010, 08:04 AM

Don,

Ed Mayo will be able to solve this.

Follow Steve Werner’s and John Walker’s admonitions.
Do not drive there without replacing the engine oil and filter! In fact, do not start the engine without a fresh oil change.

If the drive is long and you gain oil level … STOP and change oil again.

A nice flat-bed tow is best.

I agree about trying to find an immediate cause.

As noted, the first suspect is a disconnected or blocked (mouse?) hot-air hose from the left heat exchanger to the thermostat. When driving for a while, the thermostat should be too hot to touch.

One thing Ed will have to deal with is your oil/gas contaminated muffler. It will take some long highway time to burn out the oil. It is also possible to have it cleaned in a radiator shop if it is not an ‘aluminized’ version.

Ed may send you home with a ‘loaner’ clean muffler as it is difficult to set the mixture with a very contaminated muffler.

Once the immediate problem is solved, have Ed do the CMA. While running perfectly at home, you repeat the C&M part of CMA. This will establish a good ‘baseline’ for you to diagnose future issues yourself.

Best,
Grady