How to Identifying Turbo Tie Rods

[dyhunter]

Hi I have been lurking here for years but never introduced myself (or car). 89' Carrera I have had it about 5 years. Has about 80k and burns no oil. I do about 2 DE's a year, but hoping to increase that. Here are a couple pics:



chip.



I am am trying to spend a little (around $500) on the suspension. It is stock except for a cat bypass and SW chip. Trying to get rid of some of the body roll.

I am not sure if it has turbo tie rods, is there an easy way to check?

If it doesn't should I spend the money on them or take a different route first? Like lighter wheels?

Any suggestions appreciated.

Thanks

[Steve@Rennsport]

Dave,

Thats a drop-dead gorgeous car.

JMHO, but if you want a noticable and useful reduction in body roll, you need to revise your budget upward somewhat. You won't get anything worthwhile for $500.

You can ID turbo tie-rods (they didn't come with them) by looking for the longer rubber boot that covers the inner monoball or observe the two-piece tie-rod itself. Stock ones are 3-piece ones (inner U-joint, adjusting sleeve, and outer) and look for the inner "U-joint" coupling them to the steering rack.

[turborat]

Dave,

Nice Carrera. One of my favorite 911 colors.

IMHO - One cannot get much done on the suspension of these 911s for $500. Its a slippery slope that can cost many thousands. Bigger torsion bars are a good start to get body roll under control (about $500 - $800 for parts).

Then the shocks will need to be re-valved to match the new springs rates. Then there's adjustable sway bars to consider. Coil-over helper springs when torsion bar limits are reached, solid suspension bushings, track wheels and tires, track set-up, a trailer to haul the car to the track, a truck to pull the trailer, lightening the car because its no longer a street car. ......sorry Dave, that's my slippery slope.

The question was tie rods. The factory ties rods have a large fork at the rack end and allow the rod to move up and down only. The turbo rod ends are more like a ball joint and articulate in all directions. They are cheap enough that I would consider replacing them when you have a need for other work that will require a wheel alignment.

[flatsixjunky]

Check if yours look like this:




Take care.

[ASD]

what about a strut brace? Worth adding?

[chicago_82sc]

The first thing I did to my SC years ago was a strut brace. Benefits = low cost and easy installation. I'm not sure there was a noticable difference- but all the cars seem to have them.
Next were adjustable sway bars. Cost of the pieces were managable and installation was not to expensive. Later I did the torsion bars. You need to factor in with torsion bars that the car will have to be corner balanced and aligned afterwords since the suspension is taken apart. While a change in torsion bars is the best way to manage body roll, the overall ride can get pretty harsh.
I decided to compromise but using the sway bars to manage body roll without getting a harsh ride. My $.02.

[dad911]

Originally Posted by dyhunter

Hi I have been lurking here for years but never introduced myself (or car). 89' Carrera I have had it about 5 years. Has about 80k and burns no oil. I do about 2 DE's a year, but hoping to increase that. .......

IMHO Best $500 improvement would be to spend it on registration for more events.

Don't piecemeal the suspension. Save up a few grand, and freshen the whole thing, bushings/sways/struts.

[Steve@Rennsport]

Originally Posted by dad911

IMHO Best $500 improvement would be to spend it on registration for more events.

Don't piecemeal the suspension. Save up a few grand, and freshen the whole thing, bushings/sways/struts.

True wisdom!!

[dyhunter]

Thanks for all the replies.

So should I replace the tie rods with turbo tie rods? What are the sign of worn tie rods?

[turborat]

No need to replace them unless they are bad. The car will require re-alignment and that will add to your cost and inconvenience. Save your money until you do more major suspension work. If they are not bad, you really won't feel any difference with the turbo units with a completely stock suspension and tire size anyway. Of course, its your car and your money...........

Signs of bad tie rods are typically uneven tire wear on one or both tires, loose feel or dead spots when turning the steering wheel and some sort vibrations and wandering at speed. If you decide to replace the tie rods also check your wheel bearings, ball joints and "A" arm bushings. These components wear and may cause similar symptoms

[paulgtr]

I have to concur now that I have had my suspension overhauled. save up. do the whole nine yards. one piece at a time just adds to the over all cost.
after the work I have had done my 9 is transformed. on rails. you can really feel every corner working. albeit the ride is now a bit harsh, but not unbearable considering the upside.

[rlw]

You have gotten excellent advice. I just had turbo tie rods installed on mine. I was already having the car aligned and corner balanced so I was going to have to pay that cost either way. I noticed a small difference with the turbo tie rods, but not huge. If I was not already having the other work done, I would not have done it now. Suspension is what I am saving up for next. Tie rods were only the beginning.
RW

[dyhunter]

Thanks for all the info.

It seems I will be going to a few more DE's this summer,

which is always good.

[ruby911]

I cant tell exactly by how you asked your question, but are you suggesting the turbo tie rods will reduce body roll? If so, one has nothing to do with the other.

[dyhunter]

I was under the impression that I should replace the tie rods as preventive maintenance. But instead I will keep an eye on them for excessive wear.

I was not thinking the tie rods would reduce roll, but thought it might help overall handling.