Shift Rod Seal R & R

[74-911]

The increasing frequency of drops of transmission gear oil on the garage floor told me it was time to replace the shift rod seal. After reading the Tech Article and several threads on this procedure, I ordered the seal and a new rear boot (actually I order the seal about 2 years ago and did some serious procrastinating). The rear boot was cracked and oil soaked. The front boot was replaced when the coupling was replaced quite a few years ago and was in good shape. If you are thinking about doing this job, this is the procedure I followed and it worked out well:

1. Remove the passenger side seat. I also removed the drivers seat because I repaired and adjusted the hand throttle while I was at it.

2. Remove the access plate for the transmission coupling. DO NOT unbolt the coupling from the splined shaft unless you are also replacing the front rubber boot. Using a 4 mm hex wrench remove the cone shaped set screw at the rear of the coupling and slide the coupling forward off the shift rod. If you unbolt the coupling you will have to readjust the shift coupling linkage when everything is put back together. There is plenty of room to replace the seal without unbolting the coupling. Remove the rear rubber boot.

3. Jack the rear of the car up and place on jack stands. Drain the transmission. Not really necessary but it probably needs it anyway and the job is less messy if transmission oil is not dripping out of the seal when you are trying to remove it. Note: per other posts, before draining the transmission, be sure you can remove the fill plug so you can replace the oil.

4. AT this point, sitting inside the car I tried to remove the seal using a large pick per the tech article. It was soon apparent that was not going to work.
Plan B: Someone had posted the procedure their mechanic used utilizing 2 screwdrivers. I crawled under the car and inserted a small flat blade screwdriver under the lip of the seal and into the body of the seal. I then placed a larger flat blade screwdriver between the small screw driver and the transmission seal housing and using the leverage of the big screwdriver the seal popped right out.

5. Clean up the seal housing and the rod shaft. Check for burrs on the rod shaft as we don't want to ruin the new seal before we get it on. Lube the shift rod with some transmission oil and slide the new seal on as far as it will go. Note: the open side of the seal (you can see the spring) goes on first (to the rear). Slide the 5/8" flat washer on the shift rod followed the the 5/8" x 1" steel sleeve. Using the long punch and a hammer to tap? on the steel sleeve, seat the seal until it is flush with the seal housing. Actually took some pretty sharp taps?
The flat washer and sleeve prevent you from seating the seal to deep or crooked. Remove the flat washer and sleeve from the shift rod.
Note: I did not use any sealer, I.e. Curil although some recommend it.
Note: picked up the flat washer and steel sleeve and Lowes for under $2

6. Install the new rear boot. Slide the coupling back on the shift rod and secure using the cone shaped set screw.

7. Fill the transmission with proper gear oil.

8. Put the tire(s) back on, remove the jack stands and you are ready to roll.

And the usual disclaimer: YMMV

Tools I used to R & R the shift rod seal:

[dsmyth]

Good write up. Just about to replace my seal. thanks Doug