I'm no welding expert but wouldn't you want to weld it with the case bolted together to keep it from distorting? Maybe weld it and then take it apart.

I am going to take the piece that broke out to a welder today and see what his opinion is. I know welders can braze different types of metals so maybe cut a slug out of alum and braze it in there. There isn't that much pressure in the case so maybe will hold. If I have to take the motor apart I might as well get it rebuilt with a new case.
If it is weldable and I flush out the bottom end to make sure there isn't any metal parts lying inside do you think I will still need to split the case? It is a very clean break and already got a 10 Litre flush.

not a strech at all. Hammer up a nice fitting patch drill it in 4 corners and use it as a template to drill the case. Tap in 4 bolts and ...wait for it....JB weld the plate in place. the worst failure you would see is a drip leak. clean the drill and tap frass up via the hole. Remove the sump plate and use it and the hole to flush wash out any oil during the repair.

The hand wringers will disagree but I bet I could have you on the road in weell under 4 hours (+epoxie set time) using $5 worth of stuff.

YES any welding will require the case to be split. Mag flows heat too well and the entire case will get real hot.

JB weld?!

What happens on the highway, at speed, as you dump 10 quarts of oil?...

Forget about toasting your motor, thats the least of your issues...

You will be in court for the next ten years as all of the cars in your wake wipe out...

Thats a lawyers wet dream...

Marine Tex, a reinforcing plate, a few rivets/screws to hold it in on top of the original chunk and I cannot imagine a hole in that place on the case EVER letting go.

As he looks at the jury, "Your Honor! I read on the internet that this was totally safe..."

Defendant, call your next witness!

"Your honor, I call kenikh..."

:) Could happen... ;)

When I was machining, we used to do repairs on similar repairs on all sorts of cast housings.
There is no permenant repair (in my opinion) without removal of the case and taking it to a machine shop.
you can have them set it up on a milling machine, bore the hole round (it is surprisingly round now), mill a step or spotface on the surface and drill and tap about 8 holes around the diameter of the step.
They then make a stepped plug out of aluminum amd bolt it on, no welding, no warping and you have a sweet access hole that no other 911 has.
Bad thing is, you have to do it out of the car.
I'm in Saskatoon, and there are lots of shops here that would do it, I'm pretty sure that someone in Yorkton could do it.

Glad to hear you weren't under it when the jack let go.

Although I would like to be in the court room when the "Epoxy" guy was on the stand that would be interesting.

Well the insurance people want 3 quotes to get it fixed. Good luck for that. Any ideas if removing the motor for a case swap would be cheaper than finding a rebuilt motor ready to drop in? If so, without me having to piss around on the net, anyone know what motors will drop in this car? Be nice to keep it under $5 grand shipped.

If you want to do a motor swap, depending on how much you want to spend, how much power your want, and how much effort you desire to put into it, you can use any of the Porsche 911 air cooled engines from 2.0 to 3.6 liter.

As the displacement incleases you will need to face issues such as making sure the transmission can handle the power, proving adequate cooling, getting the electricals to match up etc.

Honestly, if you go to a porsche dealer you will get just one quote... and that number will be enough to "total out" your car...

I don't think the adjuster realizes how expensive this can be to fix. You could do it yourself for several grand with a used engine, and several months of spare weekends...

Just checking. We just had an accident in HNL where a jack collapsed on a guy. Why don't people follow safety procedures?

Wow, almost looks like a perfect circle.

I would second the opinion of needing a new engine. Time to build the one you've been wanting...

Also this serves as a reminder to others to not put a jack stand under the engine or transmission. There are structurally sound positions all over the car for supporting it with jack stands.

A motor swap would be cheaper.

As noted if you ask a Porsche dealer for a quote to "Replace engine case" SGI will write off your car.

I seem to remember that a new case from Porsche was about $4,000 - I was looking at getting one for my S a while back, but decided to do the machine work to keep the original case number.

The machine work was about $1,500 and included resizing the case back to standard, pistons squirters, case savers, etc.

Personally, I think the best option would be to find an early sandcast aluminum case and rebuild your engine with the correct case for the car - it should run about $1,000 for the case and becasue it's aluminum, you probably won't have to do the expensive resizing machine work.

Regards,
Andrew M

So I can use that new alum case and just attach all my original parts onto it with no problems?? Hopefully?

Yes - I think you said the engine is a 69, so it's probably still a 2.0. All the pieces should bolt up no problem.

In my track car, I currently have an aluminum case based 2.6 and I love it. You could use this situation as an opportunity to build up a hot rod 2.0 or something.

Regards,
Andrew M

Just think with the aluminum case it will have protecting ribs in that area. :)

Glad to see so many great suggestions. I would be tempted to try the epoxy fix while I was shopping for a new case/motor.

Alright, its motor case shopping time. Will definately tweak that little 2.0 to get some more ponies.

at least it not an early aluminum case. The 2.0 Mag cases arent too dear..
Bruce

UNLESS, it belongs to your numbers matching '69S. :rolleyes:

-About the Marine Tex.

I once plugged up a hole on the case of a 2-stroke jet-ski engine that I had converted to total loss ignition. The hole was were the stator wires came out of the case. I tried this marine tex stuff and applied it to the hole in the case after cleaning it as best as I could.

A few years later I had the engine out for a rebuild and decided to "knock" out the marine tex in order to properly weld the hold shut.

Let me tell you, It took some serious beating with a hammer and an old screwdriver to get that marine tex to break free from the case. I was pounding the crap out of it! I was very impressed with how strong the stuff is.

I'm not saying that this is the best repair for your case (pun intended) but just wanted to shed some light on how good my experience with marine tex was.

Supertec uses an eopxy bonding process on engine cases to fit their spigot bore reducers to bring cases that were overbored back to stock spec. They have been tested in race engines and don't fail. If bonding works in one of the most highlt stressed parts of the case, why not in a part with zero stress?

Hey, another medic on the boards! I agree totally... to the point I mark my stands and jack with weight rating and will not use stands that are the same as the jack rating, only larger (ie... my 3 ton stands are for the 2 ton jack).

Yes, people have done it. I wasn't going to suggest it for fear of losing what little credibility I have here, but a lot of guys have done stuff like this and made a good job of it. For someone confident of their abilities, this is a viable option.

Not really something I would want to do on a nice car, but I have done enough repairs like this to know it works.

What is impossible for some, is possible for others. However, I would not suggest it or in any way condone it, except to say it is possible.

DOes that sound like a disclaimer ? ;)

I was given the name of a welder who can weld magnesium.
He used to live near Vancouver but has since moved to Northern BC
Porsche shop who sends him their work, ships it up on Greyhound and he returns it same method.
Prior to his move he welded a magnesium transmission case on my car.
email me if you want his name and address and I will look it up. Probably cheaper than buying a new old case.........
cseldenattelusdotnet

Yikes! I would do a repair for a numbers matching, otherwise get a new case.

#s matching?
 

Why is everyone so wound up about numbers matching? If a case is an exact factory replacement or a correct case from a salvage car- What's the big deal?

Folks replace tires, fenders, wheels, lamps and exhaust systems- yet chassis, engine and transmission #s must match or a vehicle loses value. I don't understand why a perfect (even factory new) case would detract so much value.

Is a car worth more with a slug of Marine-Tex in the case than the same car with a perfect new case? It sounds silly to me.

What am I missing? ...and how do I tell if the numbers DO match?

Gringo - Call Bob Dumur at Dumur Industries in White City 306 757 2403. Tell him Scotty from Calgary told you to call. They have some very talented and specialized welders there that could probably weld this up without disassembling the engine. You would have to remove the engine from the car.

Bob is a great guy and if he can help you, he will.

I usually try to stop myself from giving questionable advice on a public forum...

However this time I will not restrain myself. Im not sure exactly what you should do, however I know if it was my car I would get creative with a patch to keep the car on the road while I planned out an engine case replacement. IMO the only thing you're risking is putting another hole in your already well ventilated case. You will undoubtably replace more parts than you expect if you are tearing it down to the crank anyway. And you said it was a little tired right?

Run it until you kill it my friend! SmileWavy

My only dislclaimer would be this:
If someone brought that to me and tried to hire me to patch it, I would run like hell. You gotta know when to hold 'em, and when to fold 'em. Doubt you'll get anyone to stake a reputation on a patch.

PS If you decide to patch, be sure to carefully inspect the fractured components and ensure that you have ALL the pieces. If youre not sure you have it all, I'd throw in the towel, because you will definitely cause some problems in short order.

there is a '65 long block for sale in the classifieds.

Hi Gringo,

Tough luck, man. I feel for you. There's probably other places here in Saskatoon, but if it were me, I'd be talking to Yogi at Prairie ******** (652-0888) about either option: a repair or sourcing another case or engine.

Good luck,
Rod.

Hey Gringo
Thats really a shame to see, have family in Yorkton and was planning on taking the 930 out this summer if I do I'll send you a mail and we can hook up for a beer or 2 , good luck with your new project IMHO I would get a replacement case

soory to hear that man it sure looks awfull, I think i would take a chance with trying to weld it first,,, good luck

Any thought of going after the jack manufacturer? Or is it a Chinese POS?

I don't think going after the jack manufacturer would be successfull, they might turn around and say it was not used properly and they might take forever to respond.

Hell if that hole was completely round, I bet a rubber plug would be sufficient to keep the oil in. My only worry with the rubber plug would be crankcase pressure being enough to blow it out. That is neither a stressed or load bearing area of the case. Marine tex, and the broken out piece, will seal that hole up nicely and will probably be there long after that engine is used up.

I have patched many a hole in motocross engine cases and was able to keep using the engine. On one engine, with a hole in part of the top of the case, I was able to use duct tape to keep the oil in for a couple of days until I could do a more permanent patch!

JB weld it, then think of it like having a freeze plug repaired.