Spark Plug Replacement 3.0L

[AHartz]

A little late night panic...

I spent the weekend doing my first valve adjustment. I took my time and triple-checked my work. Tonight, I started putting things back together, but wanted to change plugs before reinstalling the valve covers.

I thought I'd start on #2 cylinder plug, which I thought would be an easy one, access-wise. My car didn't have the tool kit when I bought it, so I'm using a standard spark plug socket with a straight extension. I got the socket on the plug and started loosening it. After about 1.5 to 2 full turns, the plug still feels very tight and I'm scared to death that whoever did the previous installation cross-threaded it (that's what it feels like). I stopped trying to turn it and started my panic.

I tried to put the socket on a different plug (#4) and couldn't even get it on. I quit for the night and started searching the board. The recommendation from the board is to use the factory tool. I'll start searching for one. I'm hoping that my problem is that the socket is dragging on the outside diameter as I'm turning it and not a cross-thread problem. Has anyone else experienced this? Maybe I'm not even fully engaged with the plug and just turning the rubber insert on the plug?

Adrian

[enjefriy]

could you post a pict of the socket.
However, if you did manage to insert the socket in and engage with the plug, it should not be a problem anyway.
you did say that you manage to start turning the plug.
If the plugs were in there a long time since the last replacement, its quite normal for he turns to feel quite hard through a couple of turns.
Can you try screw it back in to see how that feels. (Didn't quite like the way this sounded)

I use a locking extention, with a universal joint for clearance.
You may wanna get the right tools as this job is quite routine & regular.

[Hugh R]

I don't have a factory plug wrench and have only pulled the plugs once. All I can say is backing it out doesn't do the damage, putting them in does. If it's cross threaded you might as well pull it out. Just my two cents. HAND put them back in. If cross threaded I'd pull the engine and take it to someone who knows how to retap. Don't do it yourself especially with the engine in the car, you can't get a straight shot at it.

[RSWiser]

I don't have the proper tool yet either so I just duct taped the socket to my extension. Much better than trying to fish the socket out of the hole.

[James Brown]

That's pretty common, don't panic. Doubt there striped. Take the rubber grommet out of the spark plug socket, get a universal and put some electrical tape on it so it doesn't wiggle around so much, use a 6" extension and fish that into the head, make sure you hit the plug and not one of the head studs. Now place the ratchet on the extension and remove as usual. Replace the rubber grommet when replacing the plugs and spray a little silicone or wd-40 on the rubber so the sockets comes off the plug without remaining in the head. Notice that the plugs are not straight in the head but there is a little angle to them, note the angle when removing the plug boot. Good luck.

[AHartz]

James Brown - thanks! I have that combination of tools and will try your suggestion tomorrow.

[rtorres]

Adrian
I had the same problem with my recently purchased 82 911SC. They were so hard to remove that my mechanic feared he would break something and stopped trying after replacing 2 of the six. I took over at home and systematically started by spraying Kroil (or spray nut loosening oil of your choice) into the spark plug hole trying to get at the threads....loosen, spray, tighten, loosen, spray, tighten...stop and warm up the engine a little then try again as above. Give it a rest over night and try again the next day. Took a few days. Nothing was cross-threaded, the platinum plugs must have been in there quite awhile before I got it. I replaced with new plugs and put that thread "goop" on them so they would come out easier next time. And no they have not backed out either.
I don't have the Porsche tools either.
rt

[Gunter]

Adrian,

I don't use a factory tool but found that a 6" extension is too long, 5" is just right.

My set-up: 3/8-drive 4" and 1" extensions with a regular spark plug socket. All secured together with electrical tape.

To get an idea about the position of the plugs, use a light and small mirror to peak into the holes.

It is recommended to blow out the holes since there is dust/dirt in there waiting to fall into the cylinders when removing the plugs.

Insert the plug socket securely on the plug and crack it loose. If it's really hard to turn, spray penetrating oil into the hole and turn the plug cw and ccw to work the oil in.

Use a little Vaseline or WD-40 on the rubber insert when installing new plugs so the tool slides out easy.

Copper plugs are recommended for aircooled 911's, not Platinum!

[AHartz]

Thanks for the words of wisdom and encouragement.

I went back to the #2 cylinder tonight and continued turning the plug to remove it. After about two more full turns requiring a good amount of torque, it finally loosened enough to be able to be removed the last few turns by hand. I was so worried that it was cross threaded, but it wasn't. I'm always worried about screwing up something on the car or making jobs larger than they should be.

I got lucky and found a tool on ebay on an auction that ended today, so I'll wait until I get the tool to complete the job.

[JohnJL]

A few notes I've found useful....

1. Give the plugs a blast with air before removing, you dont want anything falling into the plug hole after you remove.

2. I dont know what the right answer is on dry vs lubed plugs when reinstalling. I have noticed they go in much better and I get better, consistent torque when lubed. They feel aweful going in dry. Also I had plugs fouling and failing to fire when lubed which disappeared when new plugs were reinstalled dry.

3. If plugs have been in a while and you are burning ANY oil or running rich a all its not uncommon to have plugs come out sticky, as you've experienced.

john

[LWJ]

I had the same situation. Scared the H out of me too. I found that stone cold = super tight. Especially on #3. When I had the car sorta warm, they came out easier. Why? Aluminum expands greater than the steel plug.

Good luck.
Larry

[Gunter]

Originally Posted by JohnJL

A few notes I've found useful....

1. Give the plugs a blast with air before removing, you dont want anything falling into the plug hole after you remove.

2. I dont know what the right answer is on dry vs lubed plugs when reinstalling. I have noticed they go in much better and I get better, consistent torque when lubed. They feel aweful going in dry. Also I had plugs fouling and failing to fire when lubed which disappeared when new plugs were reinstalled dry.

3. If plugs have been in a while and you are burning ANY oil or running rich a all its not uncommon to have plugs come out sticky, as you've experienced.

john

+1

I use Antiseize on the plugs for 2 reasons: To get correct torque and to lube steel on Alu.

If the plugs are that hard to remove, I'd definitely spray some Penetrating oil in there so that the steel plug doesn't damage the threads in the Alu head when removing.

[lindy 911]

The problem is that the outside of the plug socket is binding on the cooling fins. It's not the plug threads. You can look around at Sears and find a "thin-wall" plug socket or you can replace the original plugs with ones that use a 5/8" socket made by NGK and others. My twin plug heads do not have enough room on the bottom plugs for the original size plugs. I still used 14mm threads top and bottom but use a 5/8" drive size. It makes a BIG difference.

Lindy