"Come-along" used to Remove Swaybar

[VFR750]

I just removed my stock 20mm front sway bar. It was easy, with the right tools.

Just to show others, you don't have to disassemble the front A-arms to get the bar in and out. Here is the bar, just after it came out. The bar is still compressed.


I used a couple of pipe clamps to give the hooks something to grab on to. The clamps need to be REALLY tight to prevent them from slipping. You can see how the ends of the come-along need something to grab onto. With a smooth bar this method would never work.


Procedure:
1) Remove under body pan covering the steering rack and the (2) swaybar mount clamps
2) Slide the bar over to one side as far as possible. That side should be sticking through the A-arm bushing about 2" further than usual
3) Pull the other end out (rearward) as far as you can. About 1" will still be in the bushing
4) Add the two pipe clamps. Make sure they are really tight. Otherwise they will slide when you put load on them
5) Attach the come-along as shown and tighten it up.
6) Slowly load up the come-along. You should see the bar compress.
7) Alternatively tighten the come-along and wiggle the bar, trying to pull it free. It should pop out, once enough load has pulled the two ends of the bar together.

Re-installing should be similar, except start with one end stuck in the through the first A-arm bushing, and then compress the bar to get the opposite end into the other A-arm bushing. I've heard grease on the bar makes the installation easier for new bushings.

[RWebb]

thanks for posting - I'll have to dust mine off.

[theclaw]

You get the McGiver Award of the Month for that one.

[URY914]

Just be careful. That hook slips and you'll lose some teeth.

[VFR750]

Originally Posted by URY914

Just be careful. That hook slips and you'll lose some teeth.

I agree, always treat a loaded spring with respect.

Make sure the hooks are engaged on the threaded adjuster on the clamps, as shown on the close-up picture. That way the hooks actually force the threaded adjuster into the bar, increasing there holding power.

In this case, I noticed the clamp slid a little. The pre-load went away very quickly. This happened at first, so I tightened up the clamps to the most I could do, and that solved the slippage. The clamps do a very good job of digging in.

I can say, the amount of force actually needed to bend the bar is not that high. But it's just about impossible to generate the required force with bare hands. Especially when laying under the car, reaching up. It's just too awkward.

[Mike Andrew]

Great idea, I could have used it last winter as I lay on my back struggling for a very long time & just could not figure a way to compress the thing enough to get it all the way back in. A-arm games then ensued.


Next time........

[VFR750]

I've heard about this idea a while ago. Easy to put into practice.

Once the two mount clamps were removed, it took 10-15 minutes to attach the pipe clamps, add the come-along, and get the bar out. Part of that time was walking down into the basement to get the come-along.

As always, use caution! This is not a toy.

[911st]

Originally Posted by theclaw

You get the McGiver Award of the Month for that one.

I second that!

How about two hose clamps at each location and dial in two extra clicks of caution.

[emcon5]

Good use of improvisational tools.

That being said, I swapped my SC bar out for a Carrera Bar and didn't really have much trouble. You put the front on jack stands, then play around with a floor jacks and blocks under the tires to get the bar out of tension. I used dish soap on the bushings as lube to get the bar to slide through easier.

It was a little time consuming, but worked fine.

Tom

[KTL]

I used grease and good old fashioned muscle. Beat that.

Good thinking compressing the bar. Agreed it's dangerous if you're not careful. And even when you do finally get the bar inserted into the A-arms, it's still sometimes a bear to get the bar bolted to th chassis w/out crossthreading or mangling the bolts.

Underbody front swaybars are teh suck. Thru body bars are the way to go. Porsche never should have changed the design.......

[maxnine11]

If concerned, switch the original come-along hooks for hooks with a safety latch.
Then,if the hook accidentally slides over the hose clamp, it would still remain on the sway bar (as opposed to your forehead)

[jimbauman]

Well..... I just ran into this problem today.... did a search and voila! Funny how the Bentley Book makes no mention of the compression necessary. If it HAD, I'd be prepared. Now, another day delay while I go get the stuff to make one of these contraptions!

JB

[oregonmon]

THanks for posting this. I used this method just the other day and it worked like a charm. I used a come along with the safety latches so instead of using the pipe clamps as stoppers I attached them to the sway bar and then the hooks to the pipe clamps. I was a little hesitant, thinking they would snap but no. I was installing 22mm bars on the front, and everything went well. Not sure what I would have done other wise.
Thanks again.

[john walker's workshop]

liberal silicone spray, push one side several more inches through the a-arm bushing until you can pop the other side out.

[911st]

John, I wondered if somthing like would work. Great idea and a lot safer.

ADCO can make stock style sway bars in any size someone wants for a very reasionable price if anyone is interested. Just ask for there custom department.